Replacement Rubrail Source and EXCELLENT Rubrail Replacement Method

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foobie

Hello All:

Long time lurker, first time poster.

I am ready to replace the rubrail on my 1988 and am looking for a source. If you hard asked me yesterday, I would have sworn that Catalinaowners.com sold precut rubrail specifically for 34s, but when I went to the site today, no sign of it. Suggestions are much appreciated!  

Also - thanks to all of you who work so hard to maintain this FANTASTIC resource for 34 owners. I've joined and am looking forward to all of the benefits!

Steve
Steve Eckfield

Craig Illman


foobie

Steve Eckfield

Mike and Joanne Stimmler

#3
Steve,
Call the Catalina factory and ask for the parts dept.
Their number is 818-884-7700
You also may want to try rubbing it with acetone to clean it as others have done with good results

Mike
Mike and Joanne Stimmler
Former owner of Calerpitter
'89 Tall Rig Fin keel #940
San Diego/Mission Bay
mjstimmler@cox.net

Rick Allen

#4
Wow Steve!  Your 88 must have been made on the same afternoon as mine!  My sail number is 746! 
I second Catalina Direct. They have way more stuff then what they show on their website.  They are based here in Sacramento and I've been out to their facility many times.  It's just fun to go through their boxes in the warehouse!

Rick
Rick Allen, C34 IA Commodore
Former owner of "PainKiller", 1988 C34 MKI, Sail#746, std. rig, wing keel.

Ron Hill

Guys : Call the Catalina factory.  They used to have 3 differant vinyl replacement rub rails - Tan, Gray and Black.  Then check Catalina Direct and buy from the lowest company!!  You'll need about 78 feet. 
Ron, Apache #788

Bobg

I busted mine during a storm and would like to replace it also, mine also comes out of the track very easy, I did find that lacquer thinner really cleans it.   I believe I got that tip from Ron., has anyone ever spliced a piece in with decent results?
Bob Gatz, 1988 catalina 34, Hull#818, "Ghostrider" sail lake superior Apostle Islands

Ron Hill

Bob : I've seen people that have spliced in a piece.  It looks OK till you bump a piling with either aft or fwd motion - then it easily comes out !! You can give it a try and see how you like it. 
The problem with it coming out easily or falling out is that it's stretched and is narrower than the aluminum holder.
I found the best thing to clean it is a cleaner/wax.  it cleans, but doesn't dry the vinyl out so it becomes brittle. 
A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

pablosgirl

Hi Steve,

I would follow Ron's recommendation on not splicing and just replacing the entire rubrail.  We just replaced our tan rubrail with a gray one ordered from CatalinaDirect.com after the rubrail took a sever beating during hurricane Ike here on the gulf coast.  The rubrail was intact, but had gouges and cuts in it and I tried first to reinsert the old rubrail back into the track with some success but it had shrunk in length and I had a devil of a time getting it back into the track without tearing it.  While it stayed in the track, it looked less than pretty and so I decided to try and cut out the bad sections and splice in pieces I obtained from a salvage totaled C30.  While the color matched pretty well the rub rail would not stay securely in the track as Ron has mentioned.  So we ordered a new gray one from catalinadirect to match the grey nonskid on the deck.  We also replaced 12' worth of the aluminum track at three places around the boat also purchased from catalinadirect.  The job is straight forward.  The seam is in the center of the transom track and each end is held in place by a #10 SS screw.  Just remove the 2 screws and use a flat head screw driver to lift one end of the rubrail from the track to get a hold of it and then just pull.  It comes out quite easily.  To install, take on end of the new rub rail and drill a hole in the end of the rubrail slightly smaller than the screw and screw down in the original hole in the transom track.  Now come the fun part!  Unroll the rubrail around the perimeter of the boat placing it between the stanchions and the toe rail.  I also used blue painters tape to anchor the rubrail to each stanchion to keep it from falling.  You can either work from a dingy and work around the boat upright or work from the deck hanging over the edge.  I found it easier to insert the bottom edge of the rubrail into the track first and then push/squeeze the top edge of the rubrail down below the top edge of the track and then push it in.  You will have to support the free end of the rubrail, otherwise its weight will easily pull the rubrail from the track  (remember how easy it was to pull the old rubrail from the track?).  Continue around the entire boat squeezing and pushing the rubrail into the track ( did I mention this was fun!) until you reach the start at the center of the transom.  Overlap the free end of the rubrail over the start and add an inch for shrinkage and then mark and cut with a sharp utility knife.  Now drill a hole for the finish screw after measuring the distance from the start edge of the rubrail to the finish screw hole.  Slide the rubrail over enough to get it to butt up to the start of the rubrail and insert the screw through the hole in the end of the rubrail and into the remaining existing hole in the track.  It took me about 1 hour to insert the rubrail into the track working from a scaffold while we had the boat out of the water for other repairs to the hull and toe rail.

Paul
Paul & Cyndi Shields
1988 hull# 551 Tall Rig/Fin Keel
M25XP

Rick Allen

Rick Allen, C34 IA Commodore
Former owner of "PainKiller", 1988 C34 MKI, Sail#746, std. rig, wing keel.

foobie


Thanks all for your input! Worked perfectly. This board is a gem.
Steve Eckfield