Stuffing Box & Packing

[ed webb]

I repacked the drive shaft last fall when pulled the boat for the winter. We launched again this past saturday. my question is, should I have seen some dripping right away? I didn't so I'm concerned that I may have tightened the nut too much.
Thanks in advance
Ed

[Stu Jackson]

Ed, the trick is to start with it loose, and then slowly start tightening.  If you tightened it up too much, the only way to know is to motor out and check how hot it is with your hand.  All packing should have a tiny amount of drip, even the Gore packing, if you read the directions.  If when you motor you can still hold your hand on it, it should be fine.  If not, back it off, but generally you'd have compressed it too much and it may not work, but now that you know how to do it, you can redo it correctly. 

[ed webb]

thanks Stu. It's always easier the second time you do some isn't. I was concerned about trying to change it while in the water. I didn't want it to sink sitting at the dock. That would be just way too embarrassing

[Stu Jackson]

Doing it in the water is better, the material gets wet.  You will NOT sink the boat, if the bilge pump does its work.  This is one of those stupid urban myths that are just plain malarkey. Years ago, I did it for the first time in the water, took me an hour.  Boat's still floating.

[Steve Sayian]

Ed,

Try using the Gore GFO packing.  It eliminates the constant drip, doesn't overheat and works great.
I installed last year and had a dry bilge.

http://www.e-marine-inc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html

[Stu Jackson]

Just splitting hairs here, guys, but the instructions that come with the Gore packing say these things:

...leakage is controlled and kept to an absolute minimum.

After about one or two hours of running time,, check the stuffing box for leakage, and make a final adjustment to attain minimum leakage. (There should be virtually no leakage.)

So, they are really dry, because the time the water drips it and tries to get to the bilge, it's dried up!

Really, totally "dripless" is a misnomer, 'cuz they all need to, just a teeny little bit.  And Gore has been reported to be the best packing material around compared to other traditional stuffing box materials.

Just thought you'd like to know...

[Ron Hill]

Guys : There have been a number of articles (Mainsheet tech notes) written on the Gore packing and changing it while in the water.
The biggest mistake that can be made is tightening it tooo much.  If you start out by turning the packing nut by hand you'll never overtighten!!  Only use a wrench on the lock nut.  Also the packing gland can be run if the it is warm, but not hot.  If you can't keep your hand on it, then it's too hot and too tight. 
A thought

[Stu Jackson]

A friend just did his, in the water.  He was having trouble getting the old packing in his stuffing box out. (C36, early 90s Mark II, "Why Knot")

Here's his report:

Yesterday:  Today I tried to replace the shaft packing. I found that the old packing was so old and hard that I was unable to get it out from inside the nut. I tried a dental pick, some locksmith's picks and one of those corkscrew-type tools especially made to remove it. Nothing worked. I'm thinking of trying to run a little drill bit up into there, but does anybody have any other suggestions?

I have some of that teflon impregnated packing (3/16" Gore) for replacement. There was room to put one piece of that inside the nut with the old packing still in there and still have enough thread to screw the nut back on.

Today:  Just to let you all know, I was able to remove the packing. Nothing worked, including using a dry wall screw. What I had to do was use a small, right angle cordless drill with a small bit and drill into the packing, turning it into mush. I did, in the process, slightly mar the shaft, but it is up beyond where the packing nut sits, so this shouldn't affect the seal.

Thanks to John Reinman

Stu