positive battery wire solenoid stud room

[Bobg]

Hi All, changed glow plugs yesterday, was going to do the upgrade and the mom upgrade from mark elkin, but couldn't find enough room on the starter solenoid post to put the terminals, I  have a dedicated starting battery through a combiner on it in addition to the house bank,  and the nut barely covers the last thread, anyone have any ideas on running the #8 wires suggested? or am I doing it wrong.

And Ron, the old glow plugs quit showing a voltage drop and the engine wouldn't start, with the new plugs,I now get a voltage drop but after about 45 seconds I couldn't get the new glow plugs to feel warm.  normal?  I think I am ok, didn't try to start the engine as I am on the hard.

Also changed the hinges on the lower cabinet door like stu did.  removed some brightwork for home work, and installed the galley shelf above the sink, been busy but would like to do the important upgrades.  Thanks guys, appreciate your time.   Bob

[Tom Soko]

Bobg,
I'm guessing that if you have that many terminals on the starter solenoid stud, then you haven't done the wiring harness upgrade? Another idea would be changing the charging circuit to have the alternator output go directly to the house bank?  In both cases, you will eliminate most of the mess at the starter solenoid stud.  Just a few thoughts.

[Ron Hill]

Bob : On the starter solenoid (which serves as the common positive(+) terminal on the engine) you should have the following terminals attached on your M25XP engine:
1.  A #4 wire from the battery selector switch
2.  A # 10/12 wire going to power the engine instrument panel
    (#14/16 wire with a 20 amp fuse/holder to the side spade connection from the starter button )
3.  A # 8 wire going to power the glow plug solenoid (if you made that modification)
4.  A short wire from the alternator

As Tom pointed out you can eliminate the wire from the alternator if you route that power directly to the house bank (that's what I do as I have a duel output alternator and go directly to battery bank 1 and bank 2)

Another solution is to get a terminal extension that you can screw on the existing terminal.  Look for one at any  battery store. 

Not too sure if you have the glow plug solenoid modification or not.  If you don't I'd recommend that you install it (Many posts , in projects and Mainsheet tech note articles).  That way you only need to engage the glow plugs for about 10/15 seconds. 
You can start the engine on the hard, just don't let it run for more than 30/45 seconds.  To help, put the raw water hose from the thru hull in a gallon jug of antifreeze.  Your only concern is overheating the muffler and the exhaust hose (if you don't use some fluid).  I use & recommend the "run dry" Globe impeller in the raw water pump. 

I'm doing this from memory at home without all of my engine wiring diagrams (which are on the boat)! 
A few thoughts.    

[Bobg]

I haven't done the new wire harness upgrade yet, I don't have the solenoid upgrade yet, was going to do it until I saw no room left on the post,

I have 2 big red wires, I think they are #4, one comes from the combiner, the other from the battery selector switch, I have the fuse wire, one to the engine panel and one from the alternator.

To connect a #8 from the glow plug solenoid, and Mark Elkins MOM switch (I am on the boat alone alot) which is also #8 there just isn't  room, will look into the wire harness upgrade on this site and in the interim, the terminal extension.

never heard of the run dry globe impeller, will have fun looking up that also

Thank you guys     Bob 

[Jon Schneider]

Another solution is to get a terminal extension that you can screw on the existing terminal.  Look for one at a battery store. 

Bob, here's an alternative to what Stu is talking about that achieves the same thing in an easier space to work in: a Blue Sea distribution post.  You can find them at WM (www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/10684/377%20710%201635/0/High%20Amp%20Distribution/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710%201635&Ne=0&Ntt=High%20Amp%20Distribution&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&page=CategoryDisplayLevel1&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=119).  You can mount this on the back bulkhead in the engine compartment, either inside the compartment or on the other side facing into the aft berth and under it.  Connect one good, chunky cable from the starter to this (I would use at least a 2/0, but I went with 4/0 myself) and connect everything else to the post.  You'll have infinite (not really) options that way, and it's a much easier space to work in. 

[Bobg]

Jon, that's what I was looking for, thank you, do you know what size stud we have on the starter solenoid? it think its 5/16 but not sure, could be 3/8    Bob

[Ron Hill]

Bob : Not too sure what that common + Blue Seas post costs, but the extension I was talking about is about $2.98? (at a battery store) and screws on to the existing starter solenoid threads - 5/16" I believe. 

[Jon Schneider]

Bob : Not too sure what that common + Blue Seas post costs, but the extension I was talking about is about $2.98? and screws on to the existing starter solenoid threads - 5/16" I believe. 

I like this idea too, but I like even better the idea of getting that's rat's nest of wires away from being buried by the engine.  As little as $6.99 at Defender.  $10.99 at Defender for the 5/16th stud that Ron suggests (http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|328|49758|112306&id=299264).  You'll be happy you did it this way if you ever have to add a connection or change the starter.   

[Stu Jackson]

Depending on anyone else to tell you what size the stud may be or what size your lug may be may be counterproductive.  Unless you live very far away from your boat, it is best to go measure it yourself.  Otherwise, buy both the 3/8 and 5/16 and simply return what you don't use.  Most + wiring is 3/8 anyway.  Worst case is you'd have to make a new wire with new lugs anyway, which is a good idea given the fact that your old wiring probably needs and should get all new lugs, if not new wiring.

You can also use a simple bus bar in lieu of the Power Post - it's advantage is that you don't stack wires on it.  I used the Power Post Plus model for my PDP and NDP, the Plus model has additional small points of connection on the black base for smaller wiring like stereo power, bilge pump and other wiring.  Jon's Defender link above shows them, too.  The PDP is in my battery box, and the NDP is in the water heater compartment.  They're shown on my wiring diagram, see Reply #23, here:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4623.15.html

I used the bus bar in the engine room to "collect" all my grounds for a single connection then to the engine.

The bus bar looks like this: