Wiring Continued

[hump180]

I have just reattached my wiring to the engine which is frustrating as a novice with no relevant wiring diagram. I have been trying to use the diagrams from links and tha manual, but they are all the old diagrams from before the wire harness upgrade. I have attached the ground to the port side of the block, I have reattached the following cables to the starter post(solenoid??),the battery cable,  the alternator charging wire(orange#10), the red#10 from the ignition switch, and the orange/red wire from the alternator that runs the tachometer. Luckily the engine now runs, but the alarm sounds contiunuosly before and after engine start. Could the four wires to the same starter post be the problem?? Even though the engine starts properly, I could have the worng wires connected.

[Ron Hill]

Hump : I don't believe that the orange /red from the alternator the runs the tach -should be attached to the starter solenoid post.  My tach wire goes back to the engine panel.  You should also have a yellow/red fused wire from the started solenoid itself to that post with the other + wires (red from the battery, red from the engine panel and orange from the alternator). 
It sure would be nice if you posted (again )your engine model and boat production year.

[Stu Jackson]

This comes from: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=4546.0

What part of the wring diagrams we posted and linked, and suggestions for tracing your own wiring, did not help you out?  Perhaps the four wires to the starter may be an issue.  You need to determine if you have the right wires on the starter, since the ones shown may not be the way your boat was wired.  For instance, it shows a (N.I.C.) red from the alternator to the starter, which is required if you have only one wire to and from the 1-2-B switch.  My boat came with 2 wires between the engine and the 12-2-B switch (one alternator output, the other input to the starter).  This is what I discussed in Reply #8 to your earlier thread on this subject.

If the alarms sound, then identify the alarm wires and check them out, at both ends of the harness as well as at the grounds.  It goes back to the original step-by-step approach.

See the last post on this thread:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=3347.60#lastPost

[hump180]

Ron,
  You were correct, my tach wire also runs from the bottom of the alternator to the tach.  The last mystery wire that I am concerned with is the wire at the top of alternator labled NES at the post.  I am wondering if that is the wire that is causing the continous alarm, as it goes off whether this wire attached or unattached to the post.  This is a wire I do not remember moving, but the tachometer doesn't work without it.  Do you think this could be the source of the alarm?
Thanks,
  Bill

[hump180]

Update!  The alarm is sounding from the small printed circuit board attached to the water temp gauge.  Is this the low oil pressure alarm? 
Thanks,
  Bill

[hump180]

I have removed the circuit board and am enjoying the silence of the absent buzzer. After hours of troubleshooting, removing it seemed the only remedy.The engine is running great and holding at 160 degrees so I am not too worried about having low oil pressure and I am going to use the boat this Saturday and try to fix the oil pressure issue later with info from the board. Thanks everyone for the responses on my issues and Stu, the diagrams did help.

[Ron Hill]

hump : The printed circuit board on the back of the water temp gage (looks/shaped like a dog house) is the hi temp alarm for the water temperature.  It takes an analog signal and converts to digital and sound the alarm when the analog needle goes above 200 F.
It sound to me as though you have a short of ground to sender on that temp alarm.  This will cause it to sound with out actually having hi temp.  
I have a "press to test" switch I installed on mine.  When I test, it completes a circuit from ground to sender - the temp needle goes/pegs to the right and the audio sounds.
This has NOTHING to do with the oil alarm system.  Hope this helps

[hump180]

Ron, thanks for the info. I had assumed it was the oil pressure because the blue wire led into it. I overheated my water at the dock and had to change the impeller. Maybe the overheat caused the problem.

[hump180]

Just an update, I talked to Seaward about the alarm and it turns out the printed circuit board was not only the high temp alarm, but also the oil pressure alarm. The person I spoke to said that that was an old style and that there was a more recent upgrade available for 80$, but it also requires a new thermostat housing from westerbeke with two taps, one for the sending unit and one for the alarm. I am going to finish the season here in SE Michigan without the alarms and pick up the upgrade before next spring.   

[steve stoneback]

Bill,
The stat housing costs about a 100 bucks, but for about 5 bucks you can buy a tap and drill and tap the one you have.
Steve

[hump180]

Thanks Steve, I may go that route. I am starting to realize the need to economize where I can with boat costs.

Bill

[Tom Soko]

Bill,
The thermostat housing is cast aluminum, and is very easy to drill and tap.  I've attached (I hope!) a picture of mine.  The sender on the right is from the factory for the temp gauge.  The sender on the left is the one I installed for the temp alarm.  Hope this helps.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : If you have a Hi-temp PC board alarm (as I have) it works and you should keep it.  If you don't have a Hi temp alarm and want to install one - go with the one that C36 Tom has shown.