Heat Exchanger Bracket, Limeaway & HX End Caps

[foursailing]

Decided to pull the heat exchanger last weekend for the following reasons:

-Previous owener had apparently not changed the impeller for a while - couple of fins were missing (which I found out the begining of last season when I changed the impeller - shorlty after  I purchased the boat).
-Wasn't as vigil checking the zinc last year and when I went to remove it had broken off, with the remainder still  stuck in the HX.
-There appeared to be a very slow drip  - which I think i tracked down to the fitting on supply side to HX (appears to have a flat spot)

When I losened the the bolt securing the brackets, one of the brackets fell off.  The HX seems to be in overalll good condition so I don't think I need to replace it - question is what is the best way to resolder or what ever they did to secure it?  Dumb question - is it something I can do my self with some solder and a torch - copper to steel?  If not where would be the best spot to get something like that done? Should I consider getting a bracket made that goes all the way around the HX (instead of half way like the current bracket)?  Is there anyway I can get the flat spot out of the leaky fitting?

Also, based on previous post, sounds like Limeaway is the best way to clean before reinstalling?  Engine only has about 250 hrs - most of which was in fresh water.

Never found any signs of the missing impeller fins - did find what was left of the zinc pencil

Thanks!

Bill

[Roger Blake]

Bill-I had the same problem with my heat exchanger last year. I removed it, got the broken zinc out, and took it to a radiator shop to have it cleaned (boiled). I had them weld the bracket back on. I repainted the exchanger...works, and looks, like new.

[foursailing]

Thanks Roger! That's exactly what I did - they did a nice job on the weld and it looks great - should be good for a while.

While I was checking around, I noticed the small water hose that feeds the mixing elbow had been rubbing against the plywood right above it and was more than half way worn through - was just a matter of time.

So I decided to change the other hoses while I was at it.   Problem is now that I forget how the hoses were routed before I pulled the heat exchanger 

Any one out there have a picture of a heat exchanger for a M-35b - that shows the proper routing of hoses? 

Thanks!

Bill

[Ron Hill]

Bill : Look for those missing impeller blades in the output elbow of your Sherwood pump. 

[John Langford]

Hi Ron,
Could you please remind me how you used the Limeaway. I have emptied the HX, cleaned out the junk from the zincs, run a wire thru each tube to ensure that there was nothing large blocking flow. Now I was thinking of closing things up and pouring the Limeaway into the output hose from the raw water pump to fill the HX. Is this more or less what you do? How long do you leave the Limeaway to do its work before you drain and flush out with sea water?

BTW, closing up involves buying another end cap for the HX as the three year old one (Westerbeke 2280) cracked in half when I took it off. This is the second cap that has done that. You might also remind me of the name of the alternative manufacturer of caps that last!

Thanks in advance

Cheers
John

[Stu Jackson]

Johm, see:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3744.0.html

[John Langford]

Thanks for the reference Stu. I missed it when I did my search.

I may be cracking the Universal end caps by overtorquing them. The recommended 2 ft/lbs isn't much. I also don't seem to have a fiber washer. I'll see what comes with the Universal replacement part which I am picking up today.

Cheers
John