cat 34 water damage

[alohman]

Looking at a purchasing a catalina 34.  there has been significant water damage to the teak "beam"?which is mounted on the starboard bulkhead and separates the dinette shelving area from the galley shelving area. There is an electrical outlet mounted on this teak divider, directly behind the icebox.  It is obvious that there was a long term water leak which came in from probably a stancion or a broken hose leak. This leak has even ruined the teak/holly sole in the entire galley area, which will have to be replaced.
This teak member has rotted badly in several places. The water leak has been fixed. Was thinking of cleaning out all of the rotten teak, filling the holes and then covering the entire section with another piece of teak, or possibly laminate?

Is this piece structural?  Any ideas on how to fix? Barring any structural damage caused by the leak,(Which we will find out upon survey) should I consider this visable teak damage "serious" and walk away. Thanks

[cholder]

I'm very surprised at rot in teak, it's prized exactly because it doesn't rot. My C34 1988 has teak all over the exterior and in the Pacific NW area is often wet.  I surmise that your problem isn't with solid teak rather with plywood, perhaps teak veneer faced.

As to structure, I believe the boat is not structurally dependent on any of the bulkheads or interior furniture.  However, I agree, it's somewhat purturbing to have woodwork fall apart.

I've had to replace the counter in the head due to a leak from the genoa track. It's a relatively simple if time consuming task due to the problem of getting the bits cut to shape and into place.  The teak from trim came of the rotted plywood without having to remove the plugs and screws.  I reused those trim pieces with the new counter top.

Likely, you'll be able to do the same, that is save the solid team parts and simply replace the plywood.  Any good specialist lumber supplier will be able to sell you the teak faced plywood.  The remnants of the old will give you a template for the new piece.

My guess is that if the bulkhead forward of the galley is rotted you'll also have to redo the galley counter.  See tech-notes and projects for information on how to remove the galley counter -  it has screws inserted from the underside.

[cholder]

After sending the previous reply, more thoughts came to me.

If there's been a leak for that long you might find the laminated fibreglass and plywood deck has rot in the plywood. But this the surveyor should find by 'sounding' the deck.  I've seen this repaired on other makes of boats by lifting off the upper fibreglass layer, scraping out the rotted plywood, bonding in a new plywood part, replacing the deck laminate then making good around the cutout.  Something for a professional or a very confident amateur but not a massive problem.

As to the teak and holly floor, you can get 3/8" faced plywood at most specialist suppliers.  In the Pacific NW there's someone in the Gulf Island set up to make precut replacement panels to order for Catalina 34s.  However, because its very wet in this area, I chose to replace the two panels nearest the engine with heavy rubber mats on a 1/4" plywood base to save having to redo the varnish work so often.  You could consider the same solution.

[alohman]

Boat the boat! Sending check to C34 Assn today!  It turns out this piece is non-structural and is teak faced plywood.  Like you, we were very worried at the amount of rot thinking it was solid teak.  The decks sounded okay and the surveyor found no delamination (this was the major worry.  Hadn't thought to check the counter top.  Looks okay, but we will give it a better inspection once we pick up the boat.  Sole will have to be replaced, not repairable but at least usuable until we can get to this project on "THE LIST".  Thanks for the advice.

[Mike Denest]

I found this old thread which pretty much covers a problem I have.  The starboard vent stanchion had a  leak around the base due to not being properly rebedded.  Over the season, we tied up for an overnight with a powerboat.  The next morning, the winds came up, causing both of us to excessively roll.  In the process, three stanchions were bent.  The vent stanchion leak had become worse and now there is spongy wood in the same area alohman wrote about.  Now, to replace the spongy areas are quite a challenge so I was wondering about the new generation of penetrating epoxies available on the market.  I'd like to know if anyone has had a similar problem and did they use this type of epoxy to address the problem. 

I know the proper thing to do is get in and do the wookwork but I am looking for alternative solutions.

[Jon Schneider]

When you say "penetrating epoxy," are you talking about something like Git Rot?  If you've really got spongy deck areas around the stanchions, I wouldn't go the penetrating-epoxy route.  Instead, follow Don Casey's instructions for extracting the old filler (in this case, plywood), and then filling with West System epoxy or its equivalent. 

[Mike Denest]

Whoops, let me clarify.  The damage is in the joint at the galley bulkhead and the wood veneer trim panel in the storage areas under the stanchion.  The deck is sealed and in good shape.

[Jon Schneider]

Ah, that's different.  Well you know that these penetrating epoxies only "petrify" the wood that's there and fill in a touch.  If there's visible damage that you're looking to repair cosmetically, I don't think epoxy will do it for you.  Depending on the amount of damage to the layers of the ply base, you might be able to fair the section down to level it and apply a new layer of veneer over the whole bulkhead.  Whatever you, remember to let it dry for a long time and dehumidify the boat. 

[Mike Denest]

I did some quick web searching and came up with two products, one from West Marine and Git Rot.  The bulkhead and panel are cosmetic parts so if it is a problem to replace the wood, I'll use one of these products to stabilize the damaged areas, more than likely I'll treat the bulkhead.  I think I can replace the trim panel.  I'll post a picture here this weekend. 

[Mike Vaccaro]

I had to replace this bulkhead along with the counter top due to a stantion leak.  The bulkhead was rotted as was the plywood substrate on the counter top.  The bulkhead is made out of laminated teak plywood, so the teak won't rot, but the substrate will. 

To remove the bulkhead, you need to remove the cupboard above the stove/icebox area.  Then you can remove the bulkhead.  This bulkhead is non-structural.  All screws are accessed by removing the bungs or from inside the bulkhead.  I also had to replace the ash batten behind the dish fiddles as well as the shelf in the cupboard since portions of these were rotten as well.  Overall, not too difficult, but a bit time consuming.     

We used the old bulkhead as a template to cut the new one and treated the edges of the new bulkhead with CDPE (clear deep penetrating epoxy), since our interior is simply oiled.

You may also want to check the condition of your countertop in this area as well.

Cheers,

Mike 

[Stu Jackson]

This is one of the areas of ALL of the C34 boats that are prone to deterioration for almost everyone, because the vented water tank stanchion is right outside.  It's something EVERYONE should check, especially because there's a 120V outlet right there!  Our boat had evidence of water stains and the wiring to the back of the outlet was really in poor shape when we bought our boat.  The PO had also wired the microwave into the outlet - a disaster just waiting to happen - popcorn would have popped all over the boat!

Be forewarned, and check it out on YOUR boat.

[waterdog]

Be forewarned, and check it out on YOUR boat.

I was fortunate enough to attempt a docking in a 3 knot cross current and bent this stanchion beyond recognition as I attempted to abort the manuever and slipped under the stern rubstrake of a large party boat.   I had the opportunity to bed a brand new vented stanchion secured through oversized epoxy-filled holes.   I had no idea at the time that the sea gods were just trying to focus my attention on a problem maintenance area...

[Jon Schneider]

Speaking of this vented stanchion, I have been considering moving the vent exit by installing a new thru-hull on the topsides near the toerail at the aft-most point of the boat.  It seems crazy to me to have a vented stanchion near midships both because of the possible deck damage as well as the smells and occasional back flow.