Dinghy Tow Rope-What length?

[capndon]

I have acquired my first dinghy (9' Fatty Knees) and need info on the length of
line necessary for proper towing.  Also, any info on (dare I say) the 'best' method
for attachment to boat, and any other towing tips.  Thanks.

[Joe Kern]

I have a towing bridle which clips to the dinghy's tow points and features a ring and float at the center.  I attach one end of the tow rope to one stern cleat, run the line through the towing bridle ring and then attach to the other stern cleat.  I have lots of extra line which allows me to let the dinghy out so it rides nicely behind the boat at the approriate distance depending on wind and sea conditions and boat speed and whether or not I have the outboard on it.  Towing bridle is shown on this page. 

http://www.clevel.com/towingbridle.shtml

[Ron Hill]

Cap : Kind of a tough question to answer with out trying the dink first.  Each dink seems to tow at a slightly differant length.  I've had 5 dinks; hard dink, one hard bottom (RIB), two with inflatable floors and one with a plywood floor.  It mostly depends on where the Dink rides best behind the boat depending on its weight and where the tow line is attached to the dink (high or low). Another variable is will you tow with or without the outboard on it?
I'd start out with a 10/12' tow line and adjust back from there.  You can easily tell where best "riding" spot is.  Also be sure to have a number of floats on the nylon tow line so you can't get it in your prop.  Polypropoline line is a way to "loose" your dink!!
Try to tow with the tow line attached to the center line of your C34.  Mine seems to do best in the center just behind the wake.  
A few thoughts.    

[Ken Heyman]

Cap,

Lots of good info in this thread: I've always towed my Walker Bay on the leeward side attached to a stern cleat. I adjust rope length based on conditions. Generally two wake waves behind the 34 is best----on the down side of the wave (some disagree). As my dinghy is a sailing one, I take the centerboard out which is very important.

Good luck,

Ken

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=1564.msg8699;topicseen#msg8699

[capndon]

Thanks all.  Is there any consensus regarding regular nylon line with floats vs.
floating line.  It seems nylon line would dampen the shock loads better but that the floats would be a pain.

[Ken Juul]

I used polypro (floating plastic) for a year.  UV kills it.  Still had plenty of strength but adjusting the tow length, was like handling a piece of barbed wire.  One or two floats are all that is needed.  Nylon with floats are the way to go.

[Ted Pounds]

Nylon is definitely the way to go.  I tried polyprop one year and the shock loads defomed the towing eye on the dingy.      Give yourself plenty of line.  It's easy enough to adjust it at the stern cleat and coil the excess.  For maneuvering in close quarters I would pull the line throughthe swim ladder so the bow was pressed tight against the ladder.  Then run 2 lines from the dingy's stern to each stern cleat.  That would hold the dingy in position even backing down.  (I had extra padding on the dingy bow to keep from scuffing the stern)

[capndon]

Thanks for the tips.  Nylon with floats it is.

[Jeff_McKinney]

I've had good luck with a combination towing line made by New England Ropes. It consists of a bright yellow & blue braided nylon jacket around a polypro core. This makes it fairly chafe resistant, the nylon protects the polypro from UV, and it floats pretty well. It's 7/16" with a reported 5000 lb breaking strength. WM/Boat US sells it by the foot.

I tied a loop with a bowline on the bitter end, set up a short bridle at the other and tied that to the towing eyes of the dink (Avon Redcrest). I use a locking carabiner to secure the line to the stern cleat. So far (knock wood) no problems with the line fouling the prop. The slightly higher weight make tossing it to someone easier too. 'Course ya take that carabiner off first.