oil change

[John Langford]

I just did my first oil change on Calypso, #1431, a MkII with a Universal M35B. I could only suck 3.5 quarts of old oil out and, put about the same amount of new oil back in. All this despite the engine manual claim that I should be taking out and putting in more than 5 quarts.

I did a search on this issue and found a debate about the correct amount but no obvious consensus around a particular number of quarts.

Does anyone have a definitive answer (or at least one based on some experience and/or communication with Westerbeke)?

Much appreciated
John

[Mike and Theresa Vaccaro]

Couple of possibilities.  First, confirm that you warmed the oil up (by running the engine) to reduce viscosity prior to draining.  You drained through the plug on the oil pan (vs. pumping out via dip stick), and that you changed the filter (holds several ounces of oil).  

If you've done that correctly, it's possible that your engine was underserviced with oil.  Believe it or not, this condition is less harmful than overservicing the engine with oil.  Since it's your first change, it's possible that a previous owner didn't fully service it.

Since you used the expression "pumped," I'll conjecture that you attempted to remove the old oil via pumping vs. draining.  Generally, this isn't as efficient (especially if the oil is cool), unless you've got the right equipment.  

The best method to make oil changes easy is to fit an elbow on the oil pan drain and then permanently plumb a line to it with a removable cap.  Then when it's time to change the oil, you can attach your pump to this line.  We use an electric pump and bucket for this purpose, but you can use almost any type of pump.  You can even permanently mount a pump in the boat for this purpose.

You might want to look at some of the ideas in the FAQs, technotes or previous messages for ideas.  "Quick change" type oil pumps/kits are available as well, and most of these will the correct size fitting available for your engine.  

Since sulfer is a by-product of combustion in the diesel engines that equip our boats, eventually, sulferic acid will form and accumlate in the oil (bad for metal engine parts!).  Frequent oil changes is one of the cheapest, most effective preventative maintenance functions that you can perform on small diesel engines, so anything you can do to make the process more painless will pay dividends in the future (might even save enough maintenance costs to pay for the equipment!).

Best of luck,

Mike

[Norris Johnson]

I had the same problem and I contacted Universal and reported that I only drained 3.5 to 4 qts. I  asked if it made any difference that the engines were mounted on an angle. The answer was no, but they sent me a revised Operators Manual showing the M35B held 4 qts. I do use the postive drain that comes from the lowest point of the oil pan and I use a brass pump that came with the boat. I had to change out the hoses on the pump to make it fit the drain hose. I can now pump the oil out of the pan in about 5 mins. It takes about 15 mins using the dip stick hole. The little brass pump does get a little hot after warming the engine up, but I wrap a rag around it to protect my hand. I change my oil at least once a year regardless of the engine hours.

[John Langford]

Thanks Norris. I am going to take 4 quarts as the gold standard and stop worrying. How the hell could they keep publishing the manual with the wrong information on so critical an issue?

Mike, I appreciate the walk through but maybe I should have made it clearer that this is my 6th boat with an inboard and it isn't the technique but the quantity that I was concerned about. The M35B is already fitted with an oil pan drain line that is led to the front of the engine compartment and capped off for easy access. I did "pump" hot oil out by sticking the the Jabsco "porta-quick" pump intake hose down to the lowest point of the oil pan drain line. It worked fine but I just didn't get out the  amount of oil the manual led me to expect even after emptying the oil filter.

For my next change I will find a 1/4" brass fitting that allows me to attach the pump intake line directly to the end of the sump drain line. maybe I will even install a built in 12v oil pump. There is a space on the starboard side of the engine compartment that would accommodate it. Has anyone found a built in pump that they like e.g. the Qwik-Drain pump found on p.321 of the West Marine catalogue?

Cheers,
John

[Jim Price]

I have the Stearns  model from West (#540617 - $33.00) to change both oil and transmission fluids.  Runs on 12V.  Small, compact, simple, inexpensive.  I use one of the small "stiff" input lines to siphon the trany fluids first (to make sure I get it all and measure what comes out) then do the oil next.  I did get length of clear tubing and brass fitting from Home Depot to make a line that uses the large Stearns input connector on one end and the Home Depot brass fitting on the other to screw into the existing bottom pan drain line that Universal put on engine.  Pumps fast enough for our once or twice a year work.  Highly recommend this unit.

[Joe Kern]

Just completed my first oil and filter change on my M35B.  All went well.  I loved the fact that Universal went to the step of making oil changes easy by running the oil drain line to the front of the engine so you can easily drain from the pan without a mess.  Screwed on a brass fitting, hooked up the drill pump and out came nearly 4 qts of oil.

Still trying to figure out why Catalina could not have found a way to make the access to the heat exchnager zinc possible without major contortions and bruised knuckles.  I had a good laugh at the sticker on the heat exchnager that said "check monthly".  If they knew you needed in there that often they could have improved the access.  Oh well, just another reason to stay in shape I guess.

[David Sanner]

The M35 has a "drain that comes from the lowest point of the oil pan" ?  Nice.

My M25XP has a hose connected to the drain plug that I can pump from
but it's in center of the oil pan so since the pan is on an angle the back half
retains probably at least a 1/2 a quart of oil.

It sure would be nice to suck that last big of oil out....   has anyone found a way
short of adding another drain plug in the aft portion of the oil pan?
  ... Or changing it under sail in large waves ;)

[Jim Price]

A note to all.  We have had a lot of interest in oil changing lately and want to add an important note.  Our Fleet diesel mechanics highly recommend NEVER changing the oil without wearing rubber gloves.  They stated the diesel oil is highly toxic and contamantes will be absorbed through the skin, even exposure once a year is not good for some folks.  Our diesel guys never handle any diesel fluids without protection (gloves).

Get some disposable (or surgical if you have access) gloves to keep on board and live longer!!! 

[Ron Hill]

John  : Don't forget to count the pint+ of oil in the filter. 
Yes, they finally got smart and put the oil drain in the rear of the oil pan on the M25XPB and M35B engines!! 

[Stephen Butler]

Not a serious method for getting ALL the oil out, but one that we had to deal with after Wilma...lay the boat over on its side to starboard, far enough and long enough, and ALL the oil will drain out and into the bilge.  We do not recommend this approach, but just had to respond to the light-hearted suggestion/question of doing oil changes in heavy seas.

[Roc]

The manual that came with my boat was wrong.  Universal (Westerbeke) sent me a new manual with the correct oil capacity, which is 4 quarts.

[Jeff_McKinney]

As a former firefighter, paramedic and ICU nurse I strongly endorse the wearing of gloves when handling used and potentially corrosive or toxic fluids. HOWEVER: latex gloves and petroleum products are a poor combination. The thin latex gloves (or even surgical ones) are very thin so you can feel stuff when doing patient care but don't last long in a work environment such as engine service. On top of that the latex will start to disintegrate very quickly once the distillates make contact.  (This is the same reason you shouldn't use vaseline & condoms together) 

I'd advise you to consider heavier weight dishwashing gloves or the non-latex exam gloves as an alternative. Both are tougher material and petroleum resistant. The nitrile gloves (usually purple or some other color) are more expensive , but are probably the best.