Head Door Frame and Bulkhead

[Dancrosswis]

I have two related questions. 

Background: 

• The bottom of Ennui Went's head forward bulkhead (attached to the nav station hanging locker) was rotten.  The bottom of the bulkhead had pulled away from the hanging locker, pushing the head door frame aft, so the head door hit the companionway step and wouldn't close.
• I removed the lower portion of bulkhead.  This process first required the removal of door frame.
• When reinstalling the door frame, I noticed it was tighter than upon its removal.  I pushed it into alignment.  The bottom half of the door frame now has no direct attachment to the nav station hanging locker.
• After the first sail, the bottom of the door frame had moved inward and, again, the door won't shut.
• The bottom of door frame is angled to meet the inward slope molded into the head fiberglass floor pan.

Tentative Diagnosis.  I suspect that, as the hull flexes, it forces the frame downward.  With nothing tying the frame bottom to the nav station hanging locker (originally because the bulkhead bottom was rotten and the screws were not holding and, now, because that portion of the bulkhead is removed), the downward force causes the frame to follow the floor pan slope inward and aft.

Questions: 

• Should I replace the bottom half of the bulkhead, or replace the entire bulkhead, for structural reasons.  The bulkhead, though with some outward edge rot, is sound at the top and sound where it is through-bolted with the head grab bar into the nav station hanging locker.  The aft portion of the hanging locker that now shows in the head cleaned up nicely.  It's gel coat surface is as good as or better than the rest of the head fiberglass.
• What to do about the moving door frame bottom.  What comes to mind is (1) trim the frame bottom so that it doesn't ride on the floor pan and, hence, isn't forced inward as the hull flexes, (2)  figure out a way to reattach the bottom to the nav station hanging locker, or (3) any other suggestions?  In considering (1) or (2), I don't know whether a tight and secure frame is needed for strutural support.

Any suggestions and comments are welcome.

Dan Cross
s/v Ennui Went
1986 Catalina 34 #159

[Ron Hill]

Dan : The hull is flexing and as the people that store their boats on jack-stands know, the hull only goes back into shape when the hull is in the water.

I'd try to cutout the rotted bottom and replace it with a new piece.  Just make sure that it is really secured to the head/hanging locker bulkhead and do the work when the boat is in the water, so you get it inplace just like the old bulkhead or your door may never close properly.

A thought

[Dancrosswis]

Thanks Ron,

do the work when the boat is in the water

Yep, that's good advice.  I've settled on a game plan.

• Bulkhead.  After checking the prices for good teak marine plywood, with shipping, I've decided for now not to replace the bottom half of the bulkhead, which has already been removed.  Instead, I will add more bolts along the lower edge of the remaining bulkhead, through the hanging locker fiberglass.  I suspect I will end up with a bulkhead attachment which is at least as strong as the original installation.
• Door Frame.  I plan to trim the bottom so that it doesn't bear on the head fiberglass door sill.  That should prevent any remaining flexing from kicking the door frame out of alignment.  I'll also reattach the lower portion of the frame to the hanging locker.  It's now unattached where the lower half of the bulkhead was removed.  I'll slip a narrow vertical piece of wood (I may have some solid teak that will work) into the dado formerly inhabited by the bulkhead and then fasten that to the hanging locker.

I'll send an update when the project is complete.  BTW, the admiral didn't recognize that I had removed the lower half of the bulkhead.  The now revealed hanging locker gelcoat is in great shape and blends in with the rest of the head.

Regards,
Dan
Ennui Went #159

[Ron Hill]

Dan : You might consider using a piece of outdoor grade plywood (for strength) to replace the bottom piece you removed and then facing it with a piece of Formica. I believe that you can get formica in a color almost exact to the color inside the head.

You might even be able to cut one piece of formica to cover that entire inside wall of the head!?!  and even overlap the floor "pan" of the head?

A thought