shaft alignment question

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isabel98

After installing a new flange, shaft, packing gland and cutlesss bearing, and aligning the shaft close to where it was and so it is centered in the boats log, I'm wondering how critical the final adjustment will be. I'm hoping to start the engine at launch and have the shaft relativeley aligned. Any alignment stories (nightmares?)

Ron Hill

is100-2 : I take it that you're on the Hard!!  The hull is out of shape when you're on jack stands ie. you probably have trouble closing the head and aft cabin doors.
You should make your final engine/shaft adjustment after the hull has been in the water for over 24 hrs (48 is better) with the rigging tuned.  Then and only then will you get a true (good) shaft alignment.   :wink:
Ron, Apache #788

isabel98

Yeah, she's on the hard, and yes the doors don't close easily. I have a good starting point. I hope it'ts not too far out when she splashes. I'm not looking forwrd to removing the new packing gland while floating, But when I started this job the shaft was wearing away the bottom of the log, and that could get real bad if it continues. I'm thinking about diving down and putting some modelling clay in the log too reduce water intrusion while re-aligning. It might be too cold so maybe I'll just have the clay or a rag ready to stuff the log while I re-align. I read in tech notes that the bilge pump could keep up with the water, but there's something about watching my boat sink while I work on it that scares me. We'll see and I'll post results...

Mike Vaccaro

When changing a conventional packing gland, I just use a piece of old towel which I wrap tightly around the shaft after sliding the gland up.  A piece of cotton rag works well for this.  Then I use a nylon zip tie to hold it in place.  Cuts the flow of water down to a slow trickle.  You might also want to look at Ron Hill's pictures of a technique that he uses with plastic bags--accomplishes the same thing.

Best of luck,

Mike
1988 C34 Hull #563
Std Rig / Wing Keel

Ron Hill

is : I see your problem.  Before you replace the entire log here's what I'd try:
Dive under the hull and look to see if the shaft is centered in the PVC tube that's molded into the hull.
If the shaft still seems to be lower than centered, then turn each engine mount adjusting nut (bottom nut) up 1 turn.  Use a marker and make a vertical mark on each nut before you start.  Then go back under and reevaluate.
You can't make too many turns on those nuts or you'll get the shaft out of alignment with the strut/cuttless bearing.

If you do replace the entire log/packing gland (in the water which might be a little risky) your modeling clay idea from the outside, might work.
Good Luck.   :wink:
Ron, Apache #788

isabel98

OK, the rag in  the log sounds like it would work, I'm an expert with these motor mount bolts now, so it shouldn't take too much time to re-align. The hardest part is just pushing my 48 year old body back under the aft. The new shaft, bearing and gland are things of beauty. Can't wait to sail with the flex o fold, There's a few boats that I couldn't beat last year just lookin' for a beating..

Stu Jackson

Bob

You don't even need the rag as long as your bilge pump is running.  See my post on the FAQs about stuffing boxes.  So, what's a little water???  Don't worry about it at all when you're repacking the box, it is NOT an issue, it is NOT a lot of water.  Get my drift?
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."