cd/radio installation

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Ken Heyman

I am swapping my old cassette stereo receiver with a new model with a cd player. The PO had taken the power supply for this from the same circuit that powers the auto pilot. I want to change this and an easy fix because of accessibility would be to take the power off of the cigarette lighter wiring. Is this OK? Do I need an in-line fuse?.

Secondly, I need to enlarge the hole for the unit which is cut above the nav table (with accessibility from the port locker next to the head). What tool works best? Will a Dremmel tool or coping saw be adequate. Any suggestions for a neat (environmentally safe) job would be appreciated.

thanks again in advance,
Ken Heyman
1988 c34 #535
"Wholesailor"
Chicago, Il

Stu Jackson

Ken

Good idea to take it off the autopilot circuit.  Not a good idea to run it off a live circuit, like your cig lighter.

Our 1986 electrical panel, DC side, has a STEREO circuit (fuse).  Doesn't yours?  Our PO had used that one for his Loran.  

The stereo itself should come with an in-line fuse.  Use it in addition to your circuit breaker or fuse at the panel.  The panel's fuse or breaker is likely to be too large for the stereo anyway.

Not being able to see your boat, I can't answer the question of what panel breaker or fuse to use.  Either use a spare, or one that makes sense to you.  I like having the fused switch for the stereo because it's much easier to turn off and on at the panel than at the stereo itself.

A dremel tool would be fine.  I assume there's some kind of trim ring on the stereo, so just be careful enlarging the hole.  You'll want to clear our the hanging locker first, to avoid lots of dust back there.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Mike Vaccaro

Ken,

The panel behind the nav station is a fiberglass/plywood composite about 3/4 of an inch thick.  A jig saw will do the trick, but it won't be exactly neat!  Additionally, the fiberglass is hard on blades so it may take more than one.  You can finish the hole with a file or sandpaper if you wish.  Most stereos have a metal cage that can be mounted in the cut out.  If the cut out is a problem, you can make a face plate out of 1/4" thick star-board and screw that into the face of the bulkhead.  

As Stu pointed out, stereos and amplifiers have built in fuses--this is sufficient.  You can tap into any circuit you wish, providing it has sufficient amp capacity to handle the draw.  Check your autopilot documentation to ensure that it doesn't specify a dedicated circuit.

Most stereo heads have a "memory" function that requires a "hot wire" to the battery.  Whether or not you chose to use this feature is your choice, but keep in mind that this is a constant, low-amperage draw on your system which could cause problems if you leave the boat unattend for long periods of time without a DC charging source.

Cheers,

Mike
1988 C34 Hull #563
Std Rig / Wing Keel

APACHE

Ken : Mike's right, that wall is 3/4" thick and it's a saber saw job.  If you get a second hand with a shop vac, you'll hold down most of the dusty mess.

I don't know the size of the fuse/breaker that your cigarette lighter plug line has, but you should be able to add a stereo to it (using the stereo's inline + fuse to protect the stereo).   :wink: