Rubrail Replacement???

[Dionysus]

Has anyone replaced or attempted to replace the rubrail?  Mine is not damaged but is becoming old and unsightly and I would like any advice available.  Thank you.  

Chris P.

chp

[gator]

I replace my rub rail going from the brown one to the gray.  Not a hard project @ all.  Just do it when it is warm and a hair dryer also helps.

[bjmansfield]

I used slightly diluted dish washing detergent and a rubber mallet (white rubber!!!).  Trying to seat it with hands and thumbs got real old real fast, particularly if you have pencil pusher hands.  
Was even able to get the new rub rail to set in a couple of places where the aluminum was collapsed or bent slightly out of shape from from hitting pilings.

[Mike Smith]

If you decide not to replace the rubrail, try using lacquer thinner to clean it.  Use lots of rags - it works wonders.

Mike

[Roc]

M-1 Remover cleans just about, if not, everything.  Can be found in Home Depot.  On the label, it list all the things it can be used on, including fiberglass, plastics and rubber.  Used it to clean my rub rail.  It doesn't hurt the rubber like acetone does.  Check it out...

Roc

[Ted Pounds]

I used a product called "GOOF OFF" to clean my rub rail.  It made it look like new.

Ted

[Jkar]

I use GelGloss from Sear's Hardware ~$5/qt.  One step cleaner/wax, takes the marks right off with little/no elbow grease.  Used it now for 4yrs.

[Steve S.]

Just want to thank Mike Smith for the lacquer thinner idea to clean the rub rail.  I've never experienced an easier job.  I used to rub and rub with paste cleaner but the creosote from pilings still never came off.  Topped the rail it with a coat of polymer wax and it looks great.

[Mike Smith]

Well, thanks Steve -

But I will defer credit to the crew at Troendle Marine, who taught me the trick.

Mike

[Craig Illman]

I tried the Jomaps M-1 Remover on the rub rail today. It works really well and took very little rubbing to remove any crud and clean it up. It also seemed to work pretty well on the fenders. A pint was $5 and I wound up using very little.

Craig

[Jon Schneider]

Major kudos, Craig, in finding and reviving a nearly five year-old thread!  And came just at the right time, a week before my boat launches for the spring.  thanks.

[Ron Hill]

Chris : I've done mine and have a few recommendations:
1.  For a MK 1 you'll need 75 ft of replacement.  I'd recommend gray rather than the light tan for color.
2   Install it on a warm day - anyting over 80 degrees and it'll go in easier.
3.  Use a rubber mallet - I put an old sock over my black rubber mallet, so it couldn't make marks.
4.  Be prepared for possibly some sore fingertips upon completeion. 

[waterdog]

Five year old thread?   My math says seven years.  I'm pretty sure Chris has either sorted it out or his boat has sunk because he's still thinking about checking his thru hulls and bilge pump.

In any case.  Ron is spot on on every count.  I did mine last year in grey.   Wooden mallet works great too...

[sselinger]

One of the replies mentioned getting  a piece of the aluminium extrusion, to replace a damaged section. Can anyone provide a source?

[Jon Schneider]

Five year old thread?   My math says seven years. 

You're right!  I was counting from the last post.  I wonder if this is a record?