Raising Backstay/Bridle on Mark 1.25/1.5: Request for measurements

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Patches

I'm finally getting around to this project.  Like others, I'd like to shorten the Backstay and lengthen the Backstay bridle to allow more head/shoulders room at the helm and while boarding via the swimstep (I have a Mark 1.25).  I'm guessing that I'll have to raise the bridle high enough that the single Backstay turnbuckle at the "Y" will have to be replaced with two turnbuckles (one each where each leg of the bridle goes to a chainplate).  Otherwise, I would never be able to reach the raised single turnbuckle to adjust it.

The Manual says the current Backstay length is 31'9.25" long, and that the Bridle length is 15.0'.

For those that have undertaken this modification, could you kindly provide measurements for the length of your new Backstay and Bridle?

Thanks in advance,

Patches

 

Noah

I have NOT done this yet but plan to this month, using a local rigger. He will take measurements. If done before you, I will share the measurements, The lack of "headroom" at the helm doesn't bother me, as I have shrunk to 5' 8" with old age but, boarding the dinghy from the stern ladder and lifting my outboard from the stern rail mount onto the dinghy is a PIA working under/around the backstay split. However, one thing I am grappling with is wondering how the new split height geometry will impact my princess perch seats. I may need to cut a slot in them or trim them a bit? 
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Stu Jackson

Here is mine.  You can scale the height from the width of the transom.  I did this eons ago and made the mistake of using only one turnbuckle at the high split; it is CRITICAL to use two turnbuckles down at the base of each split.  You'll rarely have to use them, but when you need to...

The dwg is one I think Dave Davis did eons more ago.  I think I used those dimensions but with those blocks & tackle, I'd go higher.  Higher is better anyway.

I used a Garhauer split and Garhauer vang.  LARGE LONG D shackles at the bases.

Read both pages of this, too, found from a search on split backstay - there are many more, too.
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3672.0.html

Don't forget the toggles at the base, too.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Mill Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ed Shankle

Might it also require some modification to your Bimini?
Also, years back when I was contemplating doing the same, Ron opined that it would change the angle of attachment to the tangs at the base and maybe affect their integrity.
I opted to leave as is and just swivel my body around the splits or limbo under them. Works ok, and I'm 6'5"
Regards,
Ed
Ed Shankle
Tail Wind #866 1989 m25xp
Salem, MA

Ted Pounds

My guess is changing the angle of attachment on the tangs is not a problem. Those five bolts should be able to handle the slight addition of lateral sheer force considering the amount on longitudinal shear force they already handle. 
Ted Pounds
"Molly Rose"
1987 #447

Patches

Thanks Stu, but I think I'm going with a fixed Backstay system.

Noah, please let me know when you accomplish this.  I may beat you to it but, if not, will certainly share my measurements with you.  You might consider flipping your princess seats to the other side of the pushpit.  Then you would have twin "fighting chairs" and the billfish would fear you.  That would be exciting sitting in those seats.

Ed, good point, and is one of the reasons why this project is happening soon.  I don't have a Bimini and the Backstay modification is a predicate to spending those boat bucks.

waughoo

Patches,

I have the taller V back stay on my boat.  I don't have measurements but I could meet up with you and we could measure it if you wanted them for reference.
Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte