FLA to LFP Battery Conversion

[Carbon]

I currently have 300Ah of LiFePo4 batteries located in the original battery bay ( replaced the old 4x 6v Trojan batteries ) I'll be upgrading that to 500Ah when the two new, identical, batteries arrive.

One thing I ask is that if we mention LiFePo4 Batteries, we should specify the chemistry. It's Lithium Iron Phosphate or LiFePo4  not Lithium, not LFP et. al. The reason I suggest this is that some folks are not aware of the differences and those different chemistries are very different.

When I finish the upgrade, I'll be removing the Propane System and installing an Induction Cooktop and Combo Air Fryer oven.  The current 300Ah allows me to run our Air Conditioner for 4 hours leaving at least 20% SOC.  We do have a EU2000i Honda generator and that can run the AC but at night it's too much noise.

My ears perked up when you said you could run the AC for 4 hours on a 300AH battery. My spitball math says it should be about 2 Hours.

Marin Air says their 16000 BTU unit draws 1500 Watts for 12.5 Amps at 120V AC. That should work out to about 100 Amps at 12 Volts to the inverter. At 3 hours a 300 AH battery should be dead. Subtract a bit for inefficiency, and I think you could run it for a little over two hours and leave a reasonable percentage.

Do you have a smaller air conditioner? Are you counting the total time, including the time the AC has cycled off? Or is math not correct?

I am getting ready to order LifePO4 batteries and an inverter, so I'm very interested in your experience. I've been thinking that if I want to run the AC for any meaningful amount of time I'd need 400-600Ah of battery.

Thanks

Jack

[britinusa]

I currently have 300Ah of LiFePo4 batteries located in the original battery bay ( replaced the old 4x 6v Trojan batteries ) I'll be upgrading that to 500Ah when the two new, identical, batteries arrive.

One thing I ask is that if we mention LiFePo4 Batteries, we should specify the chemistry. It's Lithium Iron Phosphate or LiFePo4  not Lithium, not LFP et. al. The reason I suggest this is that some folks are not aware of the differences and those different chemistries are very different.

When I finish the upgrade, I'll be removing the Propane System and installing an Induction Cooktop and Combo Air Fryer oven.  The current 300Ah allows me to run our Air Conditioner for 4 hours leaving at least 20% SOC.  We do have a EU2000i Honda generator and that can run the AC but at night it's too much noise.

My ears perked up when you said you could run the AC for 4 hours on a 300AH battery. My spitball math says it should be about 2 Hours.

Marin Air says their 16000 BTU unit draws 1500 Watts for 12.5 Amps at 120V AC. That should work out to about 100 Amps at 12 Volts to the inverter. At 3 hours a 300 AH battery should be dead. Subtract a bit for inefficiency, and I think you could run it for a little over two hours and leave a reasonable percentage.

Do you have a smaller air conditioner? Are you counting the total time, including the time the AC has cycled off? Or is math not correct?

I am getting ready to order LifePO4 batteries and an inverter, so I'm very interested in your experience. I've been thinking that if I want to run the AC for any meaningful amount of time I'd need 400-600Ah of battery.

Thanks

Jack

The 4 hours run time is just that, the AC is turned on for 4 hours, yes, it cycles on and off ( I have a Soft Start installed so the starting doesn't pull the max Amps ) I could run it for about another hour but really don't want to take the LiFePo4 batteries that low.

Just received the two additional batteries and have them charged 100%  Will be installing them in the next few weeks ( doing a bunch of canvas work right now )