Lewmar Trapezoidal foredeck hatch DIY rebuild troubles.

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Noah

Like most of my DIY boat projects, I achieved SUCCESS on my second try. My hatch lid is now rebuilt and withstood "historic" SoCa rain with no leaks. I did not need to rebuild or re-bed the hatch to deck, as it was fine. Just the lid: new lens, new gasket, new rollstop hinge kit and new handles. It was not a fun job. Here are some Tricks & Tips to get there easier than I did.
1. remove gasket then remove all old sealant with scraper, wire brush, scotch pad, acetone, from lid frame—whatever works for you.
2. Heat-up gasket with hair dryer or heat gun, and feed it around in frame channels slowly, a bit at a time. The channel that wraps around is easy the other one is not, This takes a lot of strength and fiddling. It helps to use small spring, ratchet or C-clamps to hold sections of gasket completed so they don't pop out while doing another sections. The corners are the most problematic. Once all is finally in place, peel back the inside inch or so at the corners dab some super glue under.

BTW- the gaskets from Hatch Masters comes by the foot while the one from Catalina Direct comes as one piece which is too long. In either case you will need to be cut to length and super glued back together once installed.
3.Make sure you identify which side of the lens is up/down. The downward face of the lens has two key/positioning holes on the to fit the handles. Check that the two key holes —which are drilled ONLY PARTIALLY through the lens—are the correct size for the handle's small locating pin to fit into. I had to VERY CAREFULLY bore mine out a bit with a drill bit. TIP: When drilling acrylic take a file and smooth off the pointy flutes of the drill bit so it doesn't grab the plastic and bite which could crack the acrylic.
4. Peel off the protective backing on the new lens, and re-tape a 2-inch edge border with painters tape. It gives better protection and a cleaner line than the factory paper backing. And easier to peel after applying sealant.
5. Once gasket is done: use Dow 795 to set/seal the lens into the channel on top of the gasket. Then add another bead of sealant into the channel around the lens. Once lens is down seated on the sealant it fits almost to size, so there is not much room to put additional sealant around the edge. But do so.
6. Pull tape after 30 mins.
7. Carefully clean up any errant Dow 795 with mineral spirits
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

waughoo

Looks fantastic Noah.  Thanks for the insider tips.
Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte

Gulfsailor

Breathing Room
1998 C34 MK II 
(Hull 1378)
New Port Richey, FL

"The difference between a sailboat and a powerboat? On a powerboat you rush to get somewhere. On a sailboat, you're already there."

Indian Falls

I was just on Hatch Masters website.  No can find the lens listed in the parts section.
How did you order one?  I would like to see if I can re-do mine this year.  I love punishment.
Dan & Dar
s/v Resolution, 1990 C34 997
We have enough youth: how about a fountain of "smart"?

Noah

1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

scgunner

Wow, I've got the early fiberglass hatch cover(which BTW has never leaked)and I was always envious of the newer boats with the plexiglass hatch cover, not so much now!
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273

Ron Hill

Noah : If you want to protect that new lens from the UV and crazing - make a sunbrella cover for it!  Easy to do.  :thumb:

A thought

Ron, Apache #788

Noah

 :D I agree Ron. I had one made years ago for both plexi hatches but didn't use it much as I didn't like having the boat so dark inside and I spent several days a week, year round on the boat. With a my new lens, I do use the cover now—once I discovered what a PIA project it was to replace the lens.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig