First time winterizing for a new owner

[KWKloeber]

the the pink stuff is NOT for the engine winterization

Using P. Glycol (pink stuff) is exactly what Winterization 101 states.   Diluting it 50% (!!!) before pumping it thru to the exhaust isn't the best practice -- it will already get diluted when you mix it with what's in the system.

Just looking for "pink stuff" out the exhaust is NOT reliable to verify you have the level of protection required for YOUR climate.  No one's eye is calibrated to say if there's 50%, 75%, or 100% of -50F or -100F P. Glycol in there, so please do not do that unless you are in the mildest climate.   JUST drain her!   But, if you INSIST on using AF instead of the easier method of draining dry, capture the discharge and test it (specific gravity) or visually, by comparing it to undiluted P. Glycol (example pic from Rodd Collins below.)
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/threads/winterizing.175307/#post-1248751

Rodd's vid is here (the first part pertains to getting her up to temp; the very last part pertains to actually running thru the P. Glycol.)
https://youtu.be/PKky09u1fGU?si=3lBHzx4T8LBxdqmJ

[Ron Hill]

Guys : there is a P. Glycol that goes down to -100F? degrees (not pink - kind of a dark green) - That's what I use for the engine!!

A thought

[Jim Hardesty]

Guys : there is a P. Glycol that goes down to -50 degrees (not pink - kind of a dark green) - That's what I use for the engine!!

Around here it's -100 and using it in mechanical systems, engine, air-conditioner etc is usual practice.   What I was told many years ago by someone I considered knowledgeable is that it's more corrosion resistant and kinder to the rubber parts than the pink.  This may or may not be true, all I can say is that it works for me.  FWIW I leave the impeller in and use it several seasons, when replaced it looks like it is good for several more and I use the boat a lot.
Factoid, read the label on the antifreeze.  -50 or -100 is when it will burst a 1/2 inch copper pipe.  I believe our plumbing is not as robust.
Jim

[joe feyder]

A different topic regarding winterizing - tying off the halyards when the boat is under cover.  To avoid banging against the mast, I have tied them to temporary shroud cleats (install for winter and remove in spring).  This past year I noticed that the cleats left a slight indentation in the shroud wire.  It may not be meaningful, but I will be cautious about any further damage to the shrouds.  All of the online information recommends running a messenger for winter storage.  This is not hard, but it is one more chore and something else to go wrong come spring.  Alternatively, I have seen one boat in our marina that tied a line to the turnbuckle, wrapped it around the shroud up through the cover and then tied off the halyard.  It seems like it should work, but wonder if anyone had experience with this or another way to tie off the halyards with a boat cover.       

[KWKloeber]

Unable to tell from the post the limitations with your cover but options would seem to be bungee cords, webbing straps, line, putting protection (easy) under the cleats, etc.
Over the years I've removed them (nylon messingers) and also simply buried them in the mast and the remainder coiled/hung from the mast or boom) instead of total removal, and left them in place, twisted to prevent slapping (if interrupting airflow they are unable to resonate and don't slap.)

[Jim Hardesty]

It seems like it should work, but wonder if anyone had experience with this or another way to tie off the halyards with a boat cover. 

I gather the halyards that are forward of the mast, jib, extra jib and spinnaker, attach and tie with a small line to a well used 5/8 dock line, think I use 2 attached together with a zeplin knot then send them to the mast top.  I then wrap the dock line around the forestay, think candy cane or barbershop pole, then thru the jib tack shackle, to keep the foil from spinning, back to a forward cleat.  That stops most of the shaking/pumping of the forestay.   I have in-mast furling, I made up some spacers and line to keep the foil quiet and not banging so the main halyard is also at the mast head.  That way the only sections of the halyards exposed to weather are a couple of inches at the shackle end and what ever is from the mast exit slots to the cover.
I quit using shroud cleats.  I use for my flag halyards what the tall ship people call a midshipman's hitch much like a rolling or taunt line hitch.  I do an extra turn around the shroud 3 total plus the lock turn.  It's the kind of hitch that needs to be formed correctly to work.  I find that I seldom have the flag halyards come loose and nothing for the genoa sheets to catch on.
Jim

[Jim Hardesty]

Like this.  Note the midshipmen's hitch is with a doubled up line, each turn is snaped into place below the last turn and pulled tight.  Also the last, locking turn has come undone, I think it's good till the cover comes off in the spring.  Not my best.
Jim

[Ron Hill]

Guys : I've never had a problem with the main halyard beating against the mast.  I just tighten it up and the winter cover ties around the mast is tight.  Then when on the boat in the winter I just pull that halyard and retighten if it need it (it's held by the rope stopper).

Another way is to take a piece of shock cord and go from the halyard horizontally to the outer stay!!

A few thoughts