Coolant

[John]

Good Morning

Had a hose split and lost alot of orange anti-freeze out of my M35B. (No idea of what kind)
I drained the rest out and then ran distilled water thru until clear.
After I replace hose I plan on filling with distilled water letting it run till it hits 160-
Let it cool and drain.

Then fill with Prestone Command Heavy Duty Nitrited Extended Life Coolant. (Ready to use mixed)

Comments Please.

[Jon W]

In the 101 Topics read the Engine overheating 101-how to burp your engine. I found using a hand pump with a long suction tube in the hose from the water heater to draw water and any air out of the loop works best for me.

[John]

"In the 101 Topics read the Engine overheating 101-how to burp your engine. I found using a hand pump with a long suction tube in the hose from the water heater to draw water and any air out of the loop works best for me."



Thanks John


Water heater not connected. I believe the hoses need to be replaced. On the to due list.

[Jim Hardesty]

Comments Please.

All your hoses are the same age.  If one failed the rest may be nearly ready to fail also.  Perhaps now's the time.
FWIW  A few years ago I changed the coolant, had no problem with air in the lines.  I didn't do anything about burping just a slow fill.  Maybe it was luck or maybe the M35 isn't as prone to an airlock.
Jim

[Ron Hill]

Jim : I believe it was LUCK!! 

Your point to John is correct - the other hoses are of the same age!! You need to be alert and be cautious, unless that hose split was because of a chaff !!
However, your hoses are 22 years old!!

A few thoughts

[KWKloeber]

John,

Why the premixed (AFC11100)?  I hate paying for someone else to water down a concentrate (AFC11000.)

I would guess there is no issue with it but there's nitrate vs nitrate-fee controversy, so I'd ask my Kubota dealer (vs. conventional Prestone.)  It may not mean much but I note that Kubota is not among the list of mfgrs who have endorsed it.\

Choosing EGly AF or more-environmentally friendly PGly AF is a personal choice.

[John]

I thought I read Nitrates help protect against corrosion and/or cavitation?

When would be the recomended time to add the coolant to the overflow reservoir?

[Phil Spicer]

 Finally got to changing all of the cooling system hoses this fall. It went really well, even the two for the water heater were easy. Drilled small holes in the old and new hoses, wired them together,then pushed down on the engine side and pulled up under galley. It took longer to wire the hoses together than to push and pull them under the floor to the water heater.
After reading some posts about the water heater hoses this task had been avoided but no real troubles. The biggest problem was finding the hoses and new hose clamps. 
Nothing at 2 West Marine stores. Did a special order at a small local marine store.
As Jim said, if the hoses are the same age, change all of them. Then you will get another 20 years of motoring.
   Phil
   

[KWKloeber]

My practice is to fill the recovery tank to halfway along with everything else and if needed "top it" to 1/2 after burping. 
Then check it before/after running the engine 2-3 times to convince myself that the reservoir is losing and gaining as it is supposed to. That way I'm seeing the volume on a cold engine and when it's hot.
1/2 when cold is an easy way to monitor it. A 3/4 Mark would be ok as well but I wouldn't go higher.  Consistency is key.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : I always have the hose from the filler cap to the reservoir be a clear hose.  That way I can check to make sure there are NO bubbles in that hose- only solid coolant!!

A thought

[KWKloeber]

John

If you giggle the topic there's some question whether nitrated is better or worse. I don't use it but I think it has to do with nitrates depleting and then pitting is more likely, and that conventional is just as good these days.  No knowledge about it one way or the other.  Remember when death-cool was going to be the savior of us all?

Got this today from from Messick today re: the B2710 tractor (m-35B block):

It is not a problem using Extended Life Coolant as long as you are doing a complete drain and refill.
Doug Breneman
Technical Service Support
Messick Farm Equipment​

[John]

KW-I have researched but came up with more questions than answers, although I have been referred to as the round tool in the shed.

Thanks for the info from Messick.

[KWKloeber]

John

I ain't no AF expert and this isn't from any personal experience or knowledgebase.
The (very) little that I've heard is that the nitrates (can? do?) dissipate and the result (is? could be?) that the remaining coolant is (might be?) less corrosion resistant than is conventional AF.  I don't know whether that is more mileage (engine hours) related or elapsed-time related.  And I've read that the nitrates can be renewed with an additive.  How one knows if or when to do that, I wonder...? 

Opponents of nitrated (probably conventional AF industry lobbyists?) say with the improvements to conventional AF, it is as corrosion-preventive as nitrated AF.  I think? there's additive available to renew that in conventional AF (which is the key why it has a more conservative mileage rating.)

If you find other info I'd be interested in that.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : Just read the back of the extended life Prestone bottle!!

A thought