Forward hatch Gasket

[rwilkinsii]

I have a leaking forard hatch. I am needing to replace the Gasket anybody  know where I can get the gasket? I looked at WM and they have nothing that would fit. I did however call and leave Kent a message at Catalina but would like to know of other places i could get it from.


Side note. I replaced my flax (sp) Sunday and it takes some time to figure out where it needs to be so not to leak to much. Is this a common problem? I did get it fixed and am getting about 5-7 drops per mintue. This is my first time and it took about an hour. Thanks for all the help i got from this board..

Thanks Rich

 

Rich Wilkins
Watergate Marina
Houston Tx
86 c34
S/V Lil Tiger
Geaux Tigers!!

[Stu Jackson]

Hatch Gasket and Stuffing Box

Rich

1.  Hatch gasket - I'd stay with Catalina (at least on the phone).  You may want to try Robert (Butler) also, in parts.  Don't be afraid to keep calling.  An alternative idea would be to try an automotive store for gasketing.  Sometimes auto gaskets, like for car hoods and trunks, could be useful.

2.  Flax - don't know what kind you used.  Just regular or Teflon, rather than the dripless, either WM green goop or Gore.  

You wrote: "it takes some time to figure out where it needs to be so not to leak too much. Is this a common problem? I did get it fixed and am getting about 5-7 drops per minute."

I'm not sure I understand your question.

Where it needs to be is evenly inserted inside the packing gland, assuming it means the flax.  The best way to get this in is to make the first layer wrap around the shaft and push it in with a tounge depressor or even a pencil, then follow with the next two wraps.  Another way is to start with the first wrap, tighten down the gland, then back it off, and repeat.

If by where "it" needs to be, you are referring to the packing gland itself, you need to tighten it so that you get either no drips or 1 -2 per minute at rest depending on what flax you used.

Did you install three rings of flax?

Are the drips at rest or with the motor in gear?  5-7 drips is too much at rest for any kind of packing material.  There are plenty of resources on our site for stuffing boxes, flax, etc., that may answer your questions, but please let me know about my questions about your post.

Finding out where "it" should be is a matter of trial and error, if you mean the gland.  Once you have the flax in, you need to run the boat engine in gear to see if the stuffing box overheats or not.

I assume you've seen this:

http://c34.org/faq-pages/faq-stuffing-box.html

Since I wrote that, the newer e-marine stuffing box material came on the market, and has been well received by C34 owners, with many postings on the message board about it.

Stu

[Mike and Theresa Vaccaro]

Rich,

The stuffing box usually requires a few adjustments after the initial packing as the flax is compressed into place.

If you are using conventional (i.e., old fashioned) flax, some drip is required for adequate lubrication and cooling.  Exact number of drips isn't critical, but you can gauge cooling with your hand (use caution around the moving parts--might want to select neutral or OFF for safety's sake)--the gland nut should be warm, but not too hot to hold.

If your packing has teflon or goretex, it'll work fine without dripping (it can run at a higher temperature).

Usually takes four or five "fine tuning" adjustments to get it where you want it.  

Best tool for loosening/tightening gland nut is an old, dull chisel (works on all size nuts!).  Clean the assembly with a brass brush, and then gently tap with hammer and chisel to loosen the lock nut.  You should only tighten the packing nut by hand.  Then tighten the lock nut by hand and a couple of taps with the chisel and you're set.  Handy, effective and cheaper than a couple of packing nut wrenches.

Best of Luck.

Mike

[Ted Pounds]

I you've got a Bomar Hatch go to www.pompanette.com/bomar. They'll sell you the right stuff.  As for the stuffing box, the Gore dripless is the way to go. Easy to install and adjustment is easy - just tighten till dripping stops.

Ted

[rwilkinsii]

Stu: As far as where "it" is i was meaning the nut as far as getting to the place where it would drip while running in gear. I did put 3 separate rings of flax located at 120 degrees offset form one another and cut them at a 35-45 degree angle as to match each ring up with it self.The motor from what i saw yesterday was there are no leaks when not in gear or running... I used the Teflon flax and i used a cotter pin puller to get out the hold and help put in the new.. You can get them from sears. They look like a crooked tool well worth the money and many uses instead of getting the flax tool. I am going to switch to the drip-less when i haul the boat. I read quite a few reviews and it seems to work fine and not a bad price. My only concern is it leaking when going off shore.

Rich Wilkins
Watergate Marina
Houston Tx
86 c34
S/V Lil Tiger
rwilkinsii@yahoo.com
Geaux Tigers!!

[tandm]

Today Seattle set a record for the most rain in a single day since records have been kept and the day is not quite over yet! Just this weekend I discovered my Bomar forward hatch had developed a leak.  This hatch has handles that pass through the lens so I replaced both O-rings and cleaned the gasket with silicon.  I also discovered several hairline cracks in the lens around one of the handles. I used glue to temporarily seal them.  To get to the point, the hatch did not leak today. I am going to order a new hatch lens as soon as the rain stops long enough from we to measure the deck flange with the hatch open without sinking the boat.

td

[This message was edited by TD "Peregrine" 1988 #543 on October 20, 2003 at 08:22 PM.]

[Ted Pounds]

TD,

I just replaced mine.  It's easy.  Not knowing the the thickness I ordered the thicker (3/8") lens which turned out to be thicker than the original (1/4").  However I like the thicker one because it's much sturdier.  Asthetically it looks fine with the silicane glazing compound built up the extra 1/8" to the top of the lens.  

Ted

[rwilkinsii]

Right you are Ron!!!!! and i've called Catalina and spoke with kent there and he said it was a series 65 hatch and i called both lewmar and bomar and they have nothing that can work. It was suggested that i go to a auto parts store and get automotive gasket and to make it work... Oh the joy!! hahaha I will give it a try..

Thanks for all the help guys....

Rich Wilkins
Watergate Marina
Houston Tx
86 c34
S/V Lil Tiger
rwilkinsii@yahoo.com
Geaux Tigers!!

[Stu Jackson]

Forward Hatch - Gasket

I might be missing something here.  "Forward hatch" to me means the V berth hatch.

Hull #65 should have had a solid hatch, like ours.

What's the Bowmar / Lewmar part of this that I don't get?

Rich, is your V berth hatch solid or transluscent?

Our salon hatch, behind the mast, is pretty square and is a Bowmar on our boat.

Just please help me understand.

Thanks,

Stu

[rwilkinsii]

Stu: Your assumption is correct, I do have the solid hatch in the v-berth; that is what I'm needing the gasket for.. it is leaking pretty good and you can see daylight thru it in some areas. I have pretty much stopped all the leaks in the boat not that there was that many, the main one was the stuffing box which i checked yesterday and no water coming out.. woohoooo but yes there is drips when it is running.. the stuffing box had a steady stream to it before I replaced the flax.

Rich

Rich Wilkins
Watergate Marina
Houston Tx
86 c34
S/V Lil Tiger
rwilkinsii@yahoo.com
Geaux Tigers!!

[mvazmina]

My forward hatch on #27 is also solid, but what I did was go to either West (Boat US) or Home Depot and get some weatherstipping and install. I think it was a half round with an adhesive back. This has worked for a couple of years in the heavy rains here in FL. I have also done this on the side ports and have seen the same sucess

[rwilkinsii]

Called Kent at Catalina and he had given me the wrong info on my hatch so he gave me the correct info this time and the Part number for the OEM gasket is part# 91076 it sells for $2.50 a ft. I know i might of been able to get it cheaper at a parts store or home depot type place but i would like to keep certain things the way they are for some odd reason..

Thanks

Rich Wilkins
Watergate Marina
Houston Tx
86 c34
S/V Lil Tiger
rwilkinsii@yahoo.com
Geaux Tigers!!

[tandm]

Ron & Stu,
Don't read any farther.  I am going to mention the 'B' and 'L' words agian :)

Rich,
I understand the impulse to buy for the original supplier.  I just bought a new lens for my Bomar hatch from Pomandette LLC.  I could have probably gotten plastic and hand it cut a lot more cheaply from a local plastic supplier.  A fool and his money...

Ted,
Glad to here it is an easy job.  Do you follow the procedure outlined in the  December 1999 FAQ?

td