Coolant recovery hose issue.

[robbjd]

While trying to track down the source of a small amount of coolant in my bilge, I noticed that the hose from my coolant recovery tank had no hose clamp at the engine end. There is corrosion around the fill cap so this leakage has been happening for some time. When I tried to seat the hose on the fitting and apply a clamp the fitting separated from the neck of the pressure cap/coolant fill. Any suggestions for a repair? 

[waughoo]

I had this exact problem when I addaded a coolant recovery tank.  The parts are all brass or copper so they can be sweat like copper plumbing fittings.  You have to clean poth parts up really well till you see clean metal, then apply Flux, heat and then touch the solder to the joint.  If you haven't done it before, there are likely many videos on YouTube that will explain the process.  The parts and tools are all readily available at any hardware store.

[robbjd]

Thanks Alex, I'll give it a shot. 

[Ron Hill]

S/V : Let me add to Alexa's comments - that's acid flux and get a flame proof soldering cloth/blanket to protect the other exposed components and lightly sand the copper/brass items to be soldered!!

A thought

[KWKloeber]

After the two parts are properly cleaned for soldering, first pre-tin both halves.
Then flux and insert the tube and with a hand sledge and block against the outside tube, use a round punch on the neck side to tighten/flare the tube into the neck.  A mechanical bond is important to assist with the soldered bond.
Then solder it up.

[robbjd]

Can I use any of the solder & flux on hand? Most of my soldering was electronics/hobby related.

[Ron Hill]

S/V : For electronics soldering you want rosin core (flux) solder.  For sweating brass/copper you need an acid flux and a solid core solder!!!

A few thoughts