Opening the boom

[Pete G]

I'm in the midst of replacing the outhaul assembly and I can't figure out how to get the boom open.  I removed the screws at the mast end but it won't budge,  and the screw at the clew spins freely, but the cap also won't budge.  Any tips?

Pete

[KWKloeber]

Pete

It is likely corroded in place, which is a common malaise for the caps.

The hex on the end is simply a nutted bolt and has nothing to do with securing the aft end cap.

Use a penetrant like PB Blaster to soak into the crevices and screw holes for a week (renew it as needed) alternating with heat. I would also rap the end of the cap and around the boom with a rubber mallet to help break free the corrosion. 

Try a square edge of a sharpened hardwood or plastic block to tap against the edge to drive it free w/o dinging it up.  Or wrap a stiff putty knife with tape to sequentially tap it all around the joint to drive it out.

[Pete G]

@KWK - Thanks.  I'm always reluctant to apply brute force.  Chemicals, heat, and hammers it is. 

Pete

[Ron Hill]

Pete : When I took mine apart I found that the were two swivel Blocks and that was why I had such a hard time with the outhaul!! The block attached to the gooseneck end should NOT swivel!!
When you get the goose neck end off you may want to soak it with Blaster/penetrating oil, because it should also rotate!!

a few thoughts

[Dave Spencer]

While you have the boom apart, have a look at the gooseneck fitting.  I repaired mine about 12 years ago.  It's worth the relatively little effort it takes.  Here's my writeup on the subject:
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7127.msg49169.html#msg49169

[scgunner]

Pete,

It's not brute force you're after you want to use the hammers to setup a vibration, it's tapping not pounding you're looking for. I wouldn't use a rubber it acts too much like a shock absorber reducing the vibration you're after and deflects a lot of force away for the offending part. A hand sledge and a smaller hammer like a ball peen should do the trick. Slow, solid blows with the sledge drives the vibration deep while rapid taps with the small hammer creates a surface vibration where most of the corrosion is likely to be found. Hand in hand with that as mentioned is liberal use of a good penetrant(I too am fond of PB Blaster). The key is to get it as deep and as much as you can and allow plenty of soak time and reapplication, the vibration will also drive it deeper into the work. Even if it goes well this is not going to be a quick job, if you get it off in a week I'd be cracking beers with high fives all around. Be patient, good luck.

[KWKloeber]

While you have the boom apart, have a look at the gooseneck fitting. 

Pete

See this
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8991.msg65088.html#msg65088
for info re: converting the gooseneck swivel to a fixed (non-rotating) boom as CTY recommended way back when. 

You can do it with the new, improved, gooseneck cap or drill/pin it yourself.

-Ken

[Pete G]

I sprayed both ends with PB and let it sit a couple of days.  Both ends came apart quite easily.  You can see why I wanted to replace it.  I noticed the sheave at the clew end of the boom was pretty degraded.  I thought I might as well renew all of them on the boom as I work my way through refreshing the boat.  Any suggestions on replacements?

[Ron Hill]

Pete : You can replace that sheave, but it isn't going anywhere. I believe that I replaced the out haul line with new 5/16" Dacron.

A thought

[Pete G]

Thanks, Ron.  It's easy to go overboard.  Pun intended.  I'm replacing the line with the upgrade from Catalina Direct.

Pete