Installing a windlass

[PaulJacobs]

PLEIADES is a lovely 1990 MK 1.5 with many "bells and whistles", but she does NOT have a windlass.  I have been thinking about installing a windlass for some time, as I will soon be 83 and weighing anchor (25 lb. Mantus, 50 ft. of 5/16" chain, and 200 ft. of 5/8"nylon tri-braid) gets more "exciting" with each passing year.  We recently were anchored in about 20 ft. of water in Mackerel Cove just off Conanicut Island.  The Mantus had dug into the sand/mud bottom very deeply, and even using the engine it took much thrust to finally break the anchor free.  By the time I hauled up the chain and anchor, and slowly powered through the water to wash the mud off the anchor, while holding it with one hand I was huffing and puffing quite a lot.

Have any members on this forum installed a windlass on their C-34?  I have been looking at the Maxwell low profile vertical  chain and rope model.  I have five questions:

1.  Can one fit the windlass in the anchor locker but BELOW deck so it is not a "toe-stubber"?
2.  Does the motor also fit in the anchor locker, or must it go just aft?
3.  How did you route the wiring, what gauge wire did you use, and where did you install a circuit breaker?
4.  Did you install an "up / down" switch, and is it hand operated or foot operated?
5.  Is this a DIY job, or if done by a yard, how much was the installation?

Dr. Paul F. Jacobs
Pleiades
1990 MK 1.5 #1068, TR/FK
Wickford, RI

[Stu Jackson]

Paul,

In June 2019, Jeff Tancock showed me what he did on his boat.

[Ron Hill]

Paul : Your are in luck because in 1989 (and later) Catalina changed the C34 anchor well to accommodate a windless!!
There have been a number of Mainsheet tech note articles on "How to add a windless" to a C34 "single door anchor well"

You can look at my article and see how I ran the wiring. I also had to build a bracket to hold the windless that you will not have to do.  Mine is a "double Door" anchor well (C34s 1986-1988)

Just remember that the weight the windless needs to lift is the anchor weight and the weight of the chain from bow to anchor - not that much weight.  Go for a "UP" as well as a "DOWN" switch.  Also plan on installing some kind of anchor/chain wash down system.   Not the hard to install,  Good Luck

A few thoughts

[KWKloeber]

Paul (and others) remember to check the Wiki when looking for information about mods!!

Wiki > Anchoring > windlass.  Folks give up their time/effort to add that kind of stuff to the wiki!

[waughoo]

On your boat, you can mount it horizontally and that way the motor ends up inside the boat and forward of the V Berth removeable bulkhead.  Additionally, this arrangement will allow you to keep the windless below the hatch on deck to avoid the trip hazzard you speak of. 

[Ron Hill]

Alex : Your statement is correct for the 1989 and subsequent C34s.  For the earlier 1986-1988 C34s you will have to build a bracket to fit inside the locker because Catalina didn't allow for a windless inside the locker back then!!!

That's why is important to note if the anchor well door is single (1989 and subsequent ) or double anchor well doors like the earlier 1986-1988 C34s.  BTW, there are nearly 1000 of the earlier hulls out there!!!!!!

A few thoughts
 

[Noah]

Paul- search Maxwell VW10-8. That is a replacement for the factory "V series windlasses installed on the single door anchor locker boats. It can be used vertical or horizontal—horizontal on our boats. A few of us on the Forum (including me) have installed this model. It is a very powerful windlass and pulls up the anchor QUICKLY). It is relatively easy to self install however—I am still ironing out some kinks.

1. Chain lead:
My first go at it I installed it flush against the Starboard locker face, unfortunately the geometry wasn't good with the lead not being square enough from the bow roller the chain gypsy. The bulkhead and the anchor roller (on my boat) are not parallel. I solved this issue by having a G10 1-5/8in.  thick spacer, tapered 4 degrees aft to fore, machined and placed it between the windlass base and the mounting bulkhead. This brought the windlass inline so the chain had a good lead.

2. Chain occasionally jumping off gypsy:
I am hoping to solve that issue this week by installing a sheet of 1/4 in. G10/and SS chafe guard chain pressure plate sandwich on the bulkhead behind the windlass to help keep the chain on the from jumping.

3. Chain stacking up
I have 42ft. of 5/16 G4 HT chain and 350ft of 8-plait line. That is too much volume of "stuff" in my locker and the chain tends to pile-up under tge windlass, requiring it to be "cleared" knocked over every 15 ft., or it will jam/skip. My solution for this is to eliminate 100+ ft. of my rope rode. The other more expensive option is going with all chain.

Bottoms line: i like the windlass, but is is still a work in progress. I will check back once all sorted.

[waughoo]

Noah,

This is EXACTLY the installation I intend to do on my boat.  Your work in progress notes are quite helpful.

Ron,

I knew that Paul had a 1990 boat and thus my answer was made to him and his boat not to a general audience.

[Jim Hardesty]

This is the windlass that came on Shamrock.  I really like the combo gypsy capstem.  Remove the chain and use the capstem to ascend the mast, and other heavy hauling.  Don't find the protruding capstem to be a tripping hazard at all.
Jim

[Ron Hill]

Guys : On my Lewmar the gypsy is capable also handling braid on braid nylon as well as 1/4" HT chain.  I've never tried the nylon because hauling in that little bit (it's the 50' of chain) has never been a problem.  Usually anchor with only 60- 70 ft of total chain/nylon out!

The biggest advantage to the capstan above the deck to me would be to haul someone up the mast!!

A few thoughts

[Eisensail]

I am currently installing a windlass on my boat, a 1990 mk1.5.   It has the locker made for a horizontal windlass, but it didn't have one ever installed.  I have chosen not to use the horizontal orientation, but instead I'm going with a vertical type installed in a 3/16 thick stainless-steel bracket.  There are many write ups on various ways to do this, so thanks to all that have posted write ups!!  In addition to here, there is a great write up in the latest Mainsheet magazine under the Catalina 320 tech notes.
As to why the vertical, it's the cost of the windlass unit. 
Maxwell VW10-8 = $2,000
Lewmar V700 = $670

I am also (like Noah) struggling a bit with the angle of the chain as it comes down the bow roller.  Not sure why Catalina decided to not make this perpendicular to the back wall of the anchor locker??  I think I will skew the windlass about 10deg. to compensate for this chain angle.