Refrigerator replacement

[scgunner]

Yes Stu, you are of course right, I stand corrected. I was basing that statement on only my experience which may not be representative of the overall reliability of the unit. I would say however that it is reliable enough that it can be installed in an out of the way place, like the bottom of the rear locker, without worry of needing easy access for regular maintenance, like the motor for example.

I do like Bernd's install, very nice. In the picture you can see the bends in the lines leading to the couplings, that's what I was talking about, that's where mine failed do to corrosion. In the stock installation I think that's the most exposed and venerable part of those copper lines and therefore the most likely point of failure.

Noah,

With the tank and the bulkheads removed I found the install of the new unit pretty straightforward, dare I say easy? As I recall the refrigerant lines are permanently attached to the evaporator, in which case if you like the Isotherm compressor unit you could probably use the A/B evaporator with the '15 lines instead of the short line Isotherm evaporator since compressor and evaporator are sold separately. I'm not sure how that will effect the overall price.

[Noah]

I ordered the A/B replacement units today from Defender. In my research I learned that the Isotherm, and other brands, except A/B do NOT have a bottom on their freezer "box" style rectangular evaporators. So, unless you fabricate some sort of homemade bottom, you can't use the A/B stand-up ice cube trays, and they won't hold any frozen food (pint of ice cream ) in there. Plus, I would have needed to buy extend tubing kit(s) to make my 15ft. run work.

[glennd3]

You are correct about not having a bottom, I had to make one. I can take pictures next time at boat for someone to use as a reference . It seemed to be not logical to not have it.

I ordered the A/B replacement units today from Defender. In my research I learned that the Isotherm, and other brands, except A/B do NOT have a bottom on their freezer "box" style rectangular evaporators. So, unless you fabricate some sort of homemade bottom, you can't use the A/B stand-up ice cube trays, and they won't hold any frozen food (pint of ice cream ) in there. Plus, I would have needed to buy extend tubing kit(s) to make my 15ft. run work.

[Noah]

I just finished removing old fridge unit. A PIA removing old copper lines solo. I may try and get some help fishing through the new lines when new A/B system arrives next week. I see an easy possibilty of kinking new lines during install if not watching/attending both ends.

[scgunner]

Noah,

That surprises me, I think when I removed my old copper lines it may have taken all of 15 min,with apair of wire cutters it was just a matter of snip and pull. I don't even think I had to pull the stove for the removal, it's gotta come out for install though.

I did the whole project solo, including installing the new copper lines. As the Brits say, it can be a bit fiddlely, but certainly manageable. The way I did mine was to fully uncoil the copper lines in the main salon, setting the evaporator up by the forward bulkhead with a nice gentle curve in the lines, this is where the stove has to come out. Then you can start feeding the lines into the reefer out behind the stove space then into the aft cabin. As you feed the lines adjust the curve of the lines in the cabin to avoid binding. Protect the evaporator box, it's fragile, don't bang it or let it drop. Eventually you'll have the lines stretched under the aft cabin to the compressor and have the E box eased down into the reefer. After that it's just a matter of installing, connecting, and securing. Hope this helps.

[Noah]

Thx-Kevin. Not sure what your "snip snip" was but, my copper line was attached to fiberglass with 8 countersunk bolts/lock washers/nuts/wire clamps, and insulated the full run. Tgen thermostate wire was separtly attach with clamps.  Also, I  had to be careful of propane line running next to it. And under bunk, bilge pump hose, blower hoses and engine control cables also need to be avoided if pushing/pulling blindly. I did not have to remove stove and believe I won't heed to do so to install new line. I hope.  Also, the hole in the ice box around the copper lines was packed with lots of insulating dough/putty that was messy to dig out.
I am just a complainer, I guess...

[scgunner]

Noah,

Sounds like a PO really didn't want them coming loose. Mine were originally just laid along the bottom with an occasional zip tie. If you're going to insulate I'd suggest doing only the cold line, leaving the warm line bare allows some additional cooling before it reaches the compressor. If you do insulate the cold line you might want to put holes in the bottom side of the insulation about every foot or so to allow any condensation build up to drain free. You should get a new wad of putty for that hole with the new reefer.

[Noah]

Only one of my lines was insulated but both were anchored all along the 15ft. run.

[Bill Shreeves]

For those that have their air-cooled compressor installed in the settee seats or port hanging locker, is the heat from the compressor at all noticeable?

[glennd3]

Bill, Not on mine, Happy New Year!

[Stu Jackson]

For those that have their air-cooled compressor installed in the settee seats or port hanging locker, is the heat from the compressor at all noticeable?

It is not so much the "noticeable" heat given off by the condenser (coil), but rather it is moving the hot air away from the coil so that it can perform its cooling function.  That's why folks put grilles in front of the unit in those locations.  When installed in the lazarette, there is enough room around the unit to keep relatively cool air moving and keep the condenser working.  It's a heat transfer issue.

[Jon W]

Bill, no noticeable issue for me either. The black plastic grille on the left is an example of what Stu was describing.

[Bill Shreeves]

Thanks guys regarding the "warm air". Still on the fence between AB & the Isotherm SP.  I intend to install whatever I buy in the STBD compartment in front of  the water tank.  Thinking that I'd prefer not to introduce noticeable warm air in to the salon if that was a factor.  it sounds like that isn't a con for air cooled vs self pump sea water.

I'd really appreciate any pro / cons on the Isotherm Compact SP if anyone has experience

[Noah]

I am currently in the process of installing A/B unit from Defender. Have run into some A/B/Dometic quality control issues so far.
1. The controller terminal strip was not seated properly in its case. I corrected this and secured the plastic holding pins through their slotted ends with small black wire ties. Solving this issue.
2. The evaporator was missing the install template and the standoffs required for mounting. Have complained to both Defender and Dometic. Defender replied quickly and said they will work on issue to get me missing parts. I also called Dometic and got no response due to holiday (?) Meanwhile, I order replacement generic stand-off l from Amazon Prime which arrived the next day for $6.
Hopefully I don't find any other issues when I get system installed.

[glennd3]

When My unit was installed we had to add some lines that were precharged because of the distance between the unit and refer box. The next season the unit needed to have a charge. The tech came and tested for leaks, none found and added some freon. Used all of last season without a problem. I am not sold on the charged lines making for a perfect system. Unit was installed by a certified marine AC service.