Stern Cleat

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crieders

Needs to be re bedded or replaced
Any ideas concerning dimensions of current one?
Cliff Rieders, c34 tall rig, 1990, hull #1022

Ron Hill

Cliff : What dimensions are you looking for??  Unless you can see a crack, I'd just re-bed it with butyl rubber!!

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

crieders

No crack but after a storm, I noticed movement in the cleat when I pushed it back and forth. So I thought would be nice to use a bigger bolt at the same location, with a new stainless cleat
Cliff Rieders, c34 tall rig, 1990, hull #1022

Ron Hill

Cliff : I'm sure that cleat was not completely tight and the wind worked at the cleat to loosened it.  I'm sure that one or both holes have been elongated.

There shouldn't be anything wrong with that cleat unless you just want to waste BoatBucks!$?  You just need to remove the cleat, fill the hole/s with epoxy, redrill a new hole and then remount/rebed the cleat with the same bolts.  If the nuts are NOT self locking I'd replace them with self locking nuts.   :santa

A few thoughts

Ron, Apache #788

Jon W

#4
Consider adding a backing plate while you're at it.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

Stu Jackson

Cliff, is this the same one you asked about last month?

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10813.0.html
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

Guys : There should be an aluminum "cleat backup" in the deck mold. However, another backing plate would not hurt anything.

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

crieders

I will add a backing plate. Any pre made or need i just find a similar piece of metal and use that?
Cliff Rieders, c34 tall rig, 1990, hull #1022

Phil Spicer

 Cliff, Stainless would be best for a backing plate. Aluminum if you can't find SS.  Maybe 2" past each end and 1-1/2" wider on each side to give you a good footprint under that cleat. The bigger the better if it will fit. Check out a local scrap yard for small pieces before you go to the hardware or big box stores.
 
  Just another view
Phil & Marsha,Sandusky Sailing Club. Steamboat is #789,tall/wing-Unv M25XP/Hurth ZF 50 trans.

Ron Hill

Cliff : Phil has a good idea. 

I've also used 3/8" Lexan as a backing plate.

Another thought
Ron, Apache #788

mdidomenico

i've been using 1/4" G10 plates to rebed all my stantions.  it's pretty tough to drill and sand, likely would work well under a cleat.  my cleats dont leak so i haven't futzed with them
1989 Cat34 #856, original m-25xp

glennd3

Futzed- I like that word! A little German.



Quote from: mdidomenico on December 30, 2020, 08:56:18 AM
i've been using 1/4" G10 plates to rebed all my stantions.  it's pretty tough to drill and sand, likely would work well under a cleat.  my cleats dont leak so i haven't futzed with them
Glenn Davis
Knot Yet
1990 Catalina 34 Mk 1.5
Hull 1053
TR/WK
M25XP
Patapsco River
Chesapeake Bay Maryland

Noah

For stanchions I went with these. If was worth $10 ea. (for me) to avoid having to make/drill metal or G10 blanks.
https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/capri-26/lifelines-stanchions/stanchion-backing-plate-trapezoidal-all-years/?SearchResults=1
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

KWKloeber

remove the cleat and drill out the holes.

Epoxy pot the holes (per Mainesail / aka Rod Collins /aka Compass Marine instructions.)

Countersink and reinstall w/ butyl and a backing plate.
Ditto for the other side cleat.

No need to go w/ a different/new cleat.

Garhauer can make you s/s backing plates to your overall size and hole size/spacing.  Just email 'em the template.

-ken
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain