Eyebrow molding

[glennd3]

I am currently refinishing the teak eyebrows on the cabin top. When reattaching to the boat would you seal the entire length or just at the screws. I think I want to just seal at the screws and let the water be able to go behind and thru the molding.

[scgunner]

Glenn,

When you removed the eyebrows were you able to determine how they were originally attached? If so I think that would be your pathway, if not I don't see the need to do any sealing beyond the screws. I'd think sealing the full length would make removal next time difficult and messy.

I got tired of doing the same. I finally solved my problem by removing the eyebrows altogether, sealing the holes, and replacing the eyebrows with a matching color boot stripe tape, navy blue for my boat.

[Ron Hill]

Glenn : When I removed mine for refinishing they were just held on with the screws - no caulk except on the screws. 

Then I decided not to replace them.  Instead I got some #4 SS finishing washers and some shorter SS screws. Then I used a dab of silicone  caulk on each screw and filled the holes with the screw.  Had a friend with a C34 in the same marina who didn't notice the lack of the eyebrow teak for a couple of months!!

I still have the refinished teak 15' long strips (in one piece) if anyone wants them.  I'm just 1.3 miles off of I 95 in Fredericksburg Va.  Just let me know - Free!!

A few thoughts

[KWKloeber]

Glenn

There's no inherent reason to seal under the whole strip.  Countersink the teak and the coachroof so the sealant (butyl donut or caulk if you choose that) forms under compression in the pocket as you tighten down.

For a 120% job, you could epoxy pot and redrill pilot holes for the screws.

-ken   

[Noah]

According to factory lay-up schedule, I do not believe the vertical cabin sides have a wood core, so "potting" (over drill and fill) is not required.

[KWKloeber]

Yep, you're right about the core! 

But that makes no nevermind.  By that reasoning (woodless, not to be confused with windlass or wind less) no sealant at all is needed on the 'brow screws or anything else screwed-in where there's no core?

Cured polyester resin is hydrophilic (loves and absorbs water and goes punky, e.g, hull blisters) epoxy resin is not hydrophilic.

[Ron Hill]

Guys :  Just use a dab of silicone caulk or a small twist of butyl rubber in the hole and screw the strip back ON. 

A thought

[Noah]

Ron- i was getting my "no wood core" information from this document:
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6679.msg43976.html#msg43976

[ewengstrom]

Ron,
I sent you a P.M. I live in King George and am most interested in those eyebrows.
Thanks!!!

[Stu Jackson]

Quite some time ago, there was a discussion about voids in the cabintop.

I provided a picture of what is behind my V berth Beckson portlight.

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3601.msg19950.html#msg19950

This message is also provided as a link in the Beckson port removal tool thread:  https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3241.0.html

It seems from that photo that the EXTERIOR portion of the cabintops, both horizontal and sloped/vertical, appears to be fiberglass with no core, with space between it and the interior liner.  The interior white section of that photo could be covered up wood core, don't know for sure.  But I'd go with Noah's layup schedule first.  Unless, of course, you DO find wood in there, then let us know.

[Ron Hill]

Noah : Guess I took them off in about 2000/2001? so I couldn't remember about the core, but I did use a dab of caulk in each hole with a shorter screw and finishing washer! 

Then I never missed the maintenance, beside I couldn't see them from the wheel anyway!!   

A thought