2 Keel Bolt Nuts Frozen

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Bill Shreeves

I replaced 7 of the 9 keel bolt nuts and washers.  Unfortunately, I'm unable to budge 2 of the nuts despite generous applications of Kroil for a couple of weeks in advance and two shots on each with Freeze Off, tapping etc. and a 25" breaker bar and they won't budge. .  Also tried using my impact screw gun on one hoping the shocks might coax it but, the 1/2" adapter for the socket just twisted off after a short while.  Fortunately, they're #4 & #5 counting the forward keel bolt in front of the mast as #1 so, these are very accessible.

I'm guessing my only option is a nut splitter.  The bad news is I've been unable to find one large enough for a 1-1/8" nut.   Best I can find is 27mm which is a .062 undersized.  Thinking if it won't squeeze on I could probably grind a little off the crowns of each facet to get the 62 thousandths.

I can't imagine I'm the first to encounter this so, anyone lick this one?  if so, what worked for you assuming Freeze Off and expletives weren't the answer.

Thanks in advance for any assistance
The only thing that always works on an old boat is the owner...

Bill Shreeves
s/v "Begnnings" 1987 Shoal Draft #333
M25XPB, Worton Creek, MD

Noah

#1
Can't help you on how to remove (other than heat, perhaps), but curious, why the need to remove/replace?
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Bill Shreeves

Quote from: Noah on March 24, 2019, 07:19:03 PM
Can't help you on how to remove (other than heat, perhaps), but curious, why the need to remove/replace?

Knda reluctant to use heat in the bilge. Remove / replace to replace washers, re-bed & torque to spec.
The only thing that always works on an old boat is the owner...

Bill Shreeves
s/v "Begnnings" 1987 Shoal Draft #333
M25XPB, Worton Creek, MD

KWKloeber

Hi Bill

Why reluctant. Is there not clear access?  Pix? Very thin pencil torch. Heat/cool/penetrate/repeating helps break the bond.

Dremel a deep thin slot in the nut, then wham with a cold chisel to split it.
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Noah

What are you rebedding? Dropping the keel? Are you leaking?
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Stu Jackson

Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Bill Shreeves

#6
Ken,
I like your suggested process plus, if it fails, i could still go with a splitter.  I guess I'm hesitant with heat near the floor of the bilge but, a pencil torch should give me good control.

Noah,
Changing for the following reasons:  Some leaking as shown by a couple of small rust drips down the keel over the winter.  I haven't been able to re-torque every nut for the past 3 winters since I got her.  I saw some of the washers had corrosion and after removal I learned two were very severe and I'm really glad I decided to do this part now.  I plan on dropping the keel next winter and ripping out the wood in the keel stub.  Per the drawing from Catalina, I'm assuming that also means removing / rebuilding the mast step too.

Stu, thanks for the link.
The only thing that always works on an old boat is the owner...

Bill Shreeves
s/v "Begnnings" 1987 Shoal Draft #333
M25XPB, Worton Creek, MD

KWKloeber

Bill

Cut a hole in a heat/flame resistant sheet and lay over the keel bolt.
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Noah

Bill—I am a Calif. guy, but you might rethink your "will do next winter" timeline. I would think that sort of work; dropping, removing/replacing keel stub, doesn't lend itself to be done in the cold of winter. Resin work is problematic in the cold.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Ron Hill

Bill : As Ken mentioned - a Dremel tool will do wonders!!

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Bill Shreeves

Quote from: Noah on March 25, 2019, 12:08:57 PM
Bill—I am a Calif. guy, but you might rethink your "will do next winter" timeline. I would think that sort of work; dropping, removing/replacing keel stub, doesn't lend itself to be done in the cold of winter. Resin work is problematic in the cold.

Yeah, thanks for helping me look down the road.  i figure on doing the new fiberglass work in the Spring whenever it's warm enough and the launch date will be pushed however long is needed.  I've read there are some epoxies that can manage "cooler" temperatures but, I'll get in to the details when needed.  I've never done fiberglass work so, I'll have a lot of reading to do and buying a few beers for friends that have.   The bilge is probably a good place to learn knowing I need strong, not really pretty.
The only thing that always works on an old boat is the owner...

Bill Shreeves
s/v "Begnnings" 1987 Shoal Draft #333
M25XPB, Worton Creek, MD

britinusa

I second the dremel tool.
Perhaps cutting a slit as far into as much of the nut as possible would assist in the application of PB Blaster etc. and enough to allow one of these to work for you.
https://www.allhailexpress.com/products/tools?utm_medium=cpc

Following because I am considering refinishing the bilge during our next haul out.

Paul
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

Bill Shreeves

I plan on trying the torch / dremel approach this weekend
The only thing that always works on an old boat is the owner...

Bill Shreeves
s/v "Begnnings" 1987 Shoal Draft #333
M25XPB, Worton Creek, MD

Bill Shreeves

#13
Very pleased to share that I didn't need to cut the 2 keel bolt nuts off with a dremel after-all but, was prepared to.  I thought I'd share what worked:
     Heated the nuts up to around 350 F or so.  I have an infrared thermometer
     Let them cool down to ballpark 100 F
     Spray for 20 seconds with freeze off
     Wait a minute then hit the nuts on the side with a hammer a couple times.  Didn't kill it, just a couple of decent shots to shock it
     25" breaker bar took then off without difficulty
     Once they started to move I liberally lubed and took my time turning them off to make sure they didn't stick
The only thing that always works on an old boat is the owner...

Bill Shreeves
s/v "Begnnings" 1987 Shoal Draft #333
M25XPB, Worton Creek, MD

Noah

1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig