Topics

When I pull the boat this spring I am considering adding the ellipitical shape to the back of my rudder that was described about a year ago.  I can't find a new 34 out of the water near me to trace the new shape.  Anybody happen to have a template they can copy for me?  Or if your on the hard for the winter, would somebody mind tracing the new rudder shape.  I have a wing keel.   Thanks!

Went across the bay this weekend, Luna Loca and a pair of brand new Hunter 36's.  Second day out, wind blowing 20-25, seas 3-6ft.  Nasty day by Chesapeake standards.  Motoring to second port, the engine dies on one of the Hunters.  CG saves the day with a tow to port.  

Upon checking the fuel system I found black slime plugging the input to the Racor and the fuel in the bowl looking more like black coffee than diesel.  Oboviously the tank/fuel system needs a cleaning.  The owner of the boat was single handing, so she elected to ride home with us and rescue her boat next weekend when she has help.  

Most of the marina's in our area service sailboat, so I don't think they pump enough volume to keep their supplies clean.  I buy mine at a truck stop and fill myself.  Still I think I need to start adding additives for other than winter storage.  What's the best?  AlgaeX, K100, any of the brands at WM/BUS?

An interesting weekend.  I was having beginning to have problems with the autopilot not releasing all the time.  Quick search turned up the problem of the sheared rolled pin.  The pins are getting hard to find!  Finally found a repair shop that knew what I was talking about and ordered them.  $15 for 6!  Got to the boat, didn't bring my gear puller.  Thinking that since the steering wheel nut was only hand tight the wheel would easily come off.  Wrong.  Another project for next week.  Despite the cramped conditions, decided to replace the pin anyway.  It came out easily in about 3 pieces.  Getting the new one in proved to be another story.  After cleaning everything up, started trying to drive the new pins in.  Even though they are stainless they bend/deform very easily.  Finally on the third try got it in.  Everything seems to work much better!  Will give it a try next weekend.  

Lesson learned.  Make sure you have plenty of spare pins.  You probably won't get the first couple in.  

An oh by the way, reading the on line owners manual (since most of mine was lost by the PO) I found that they recommend that the belt/drive unit be hosed regularly with fresh water to prevent salt build up that may cause binding problems.  Something else to add to my post cruise checklist!

Last summer I was diving to clean the prop about once a month.  On a lark I decided to try this prop coating. It has the consistency of vaseline and goes on very easily.
Foul Away. Outdrive Seasonal Coating sold by
http://www.barnaclean.com/
I hadn't noticed any degradation in performance so far this season, this weekend we anchored in some clear and jelly fish free water so I thought I would go take a look.  I averaged about 4 barnacles a blade with no slime.  Scrapped them easily off with a scotch bright, reapplied the Foul Away, should be good for the rest of the season. :)

I finally did the harness upgrade.  Of the 2 connectors, the one at the instrument panel was clean and dry.  The one by the engine had moderate corrosion on about half the pins.  Took the boat out this weekend.  I have been struggling with high engine temps and could find nothing wrong with the cooling system.  This weekend the temp stayed rock steady at 170.  I am thinking as the connector heated up, it somehow caused the temp indicator to falsly read hot.  I also didn't used to show anything above about 13 volts.  Now it starts at 13 and builds to 14 as the batteries charge.  Starts easier also.  It is amazing how a little corrosion can cause problems.   For those of you that have not yet done this change, I highly recommend it.

On the engine Panel thread "Crows Nest" says he runs the engine blower alot.  I seldom if ever use it.  I thought its purpose was to remove fumes from the engine/aft cabin bilge.  If I go onboard and I don't smell fumes I don't run it.  It's been a while since I read the owners manual, did I miss something?

It's about time for me to buy new batteries.  Want to make sure my current charger won't fry them.  I have a Guest model 2520C, but no technical information.  Customer Service say's after about 80% charge it reduces to a trickle to finish topping the battery.  But that is what I would expect to hear from them.  They said they would mail the manuals, but while I wait does anyone have experience with Guest chargers?

Changing home ports this spring.  The time line to avoid paying at 2 marinas has me moving the boat in March.  I'm not sure if I will be able to get the water system un-winterized before the  move because the water on the dock ususally isn't turned on till April.  Will I cause any damage to the hot water heater by running the engine with it empty?  My guess is no, but there is that nagging saying about assuming things.

After many years of faithfull use, the stitching is finally letting go in my genoa.  Thinking about replacing rather than repairing.  I still have the continous line furler, the luff slides into a grove with a covering zipper arrangement.  What is the correct terminolgy for this arrangement so I can be somewhat knowledgeable in my search.

I finally got around to playing with the pole that has been attached to the mast since I got the boat.  I had thought it was a Spinnaker pole.  Since I  don't have spinnaker, there was no hurry to investigate it.  It is 3" dia, 12'extends to 22'long.  This morning looking at some web pages, I guess what I really have is a whisker pole.  Due to it's weight I had a hard time getting it off and on it's mounts sitting at the dock, can't imagine trying to do it on a moving deck.  My only experience with whisker poles was on my C22.  It was light weight, about like an extendable boat hook.  Do I really need a pole this big for poleing out a 155 genoa?  Can someone point me to a site or provide some operating tips?

On the boat Saturday, wind about 10 kts, noticed the wind speed indicator wasn't working.  Looked up and sure enough the cups weren't spinning. Sunday after the front, 16-35 knots of wind, the wheel broke free and started working again.  Comparing to neighbors boats at the dock, mine still has some drag on it as it is slower to start and faster to stop.  Is this repairable or should I just replace the sender?  Fewer times up and down the mast the better!

To ease my workload this summer, I would like to leave the infatable in the water as much as possible.  To minimize growth I plan on painting the bottom with antifouling paint.  Not sure if I should use ablative or hard.  Any thoughts from those who have been there before?

I have a terrible problem with barnacles and other marine growth on the prop.  Boat is moored in a creek off the Cheaspeake, so the water is brackish.  I scrapped the prop just before labor day weekend, used it the long weekend, then it was at the dock 6 weeks.  I pulled out last friday and had no thrust.  Quickly tied off to the end of the dock.  Upon inspection the propellor was fully coated on both sides with a 1/4-1/2" layer of growth.  Others in the marina don't seem to have the growth problem I do, they may go 2-3 months with out using the boat, pull away from the dock with no apparent problem.  I do live aboard at least 4 nights a week, but am careful not to put too many food stuffs down the drain.  Plugged in constantly to shore power, have a galvanic isolator and the zincs last about a year, which I hear is about average.  Any thoughts?

I have a question I would like to ask off line. Mail to your email keeps getting bounced as undeliverable.  Thanks.

Ken Juul
kjuul@ntalex.com

Next on the project list is to change the sea water impellor.  Does the engine fresh water pump have a similiar impellor or is it more like an automotive pump.  Is there a recommended replacement interval or just when leaking or bearing noise is heard?

Knowing I need to replace my tank because of the new OFP requirements, I started looking at the projects page about installing a bigger tank.  I would like to use an 11# as suggested by Ron Hill, but taking rough measurements it does not look like it will work in a walk out transom model.  Has anyone with a walk out transom upgraded their propane system?  Sure would like to get rid of that tiny bottle.

I have a split Air conditioning system.  One unit is tied in through the AC accessory switch/breaker, the other is plugged into the outlet in the forward cabin.  I don't like the arrangement and am planning on running a seperate circuit for the front unit.  Called about buying a new push-push switch/breaker unit from the manufacturer.  Very expensive, the parts guy suggested just buying a seperate switch and pop out breaker.  I haven't gotten any farther than the West Marine catalog, but all their pop out breakers and switches are only DC rated. It also recommends that a double pole switch be used on AC circuits, although the rest of the boat isn't.  To keep the panel as standard as possible I would like to use the another push-push type switch if it is reasonably priced. Can anybody tell me what I really need and/or recommend a place to buy the parts.

I currently have a 3 bladed prop I am very happy with.  I recently got a pamphlet in the mail about Gori folding props.  Compared it with the literature I picked up at the Annapolis BS about feathering props (Maxi & Jprop). Got me thinking, when I win the lottery, which to buy?  I like the Gori, but I worry about marine growth fowling the gears that open/close the blades. (I have to scrape my current prop about once a month in the summer).  The Maxi and J look very similar.  Lost the price sheet, so I don't know how the $$ compare.  As we sit out the winter:), anyone care to share their experiences on this subject.  I read the Tech Notes, found a couple of articles, but no real comparison of the different types.  Thanks for the input.

Luna Loca stays in the water year round.  As I spend 3 nights a week on her, I keep the shore power plugged in to keep the refer cold and in the winter heat on the prevent freezing.  It was mentioned that I should have a Galvanic Isolater on the shore power ground line.  Is this a "nice to have" or "got to have item"?   The previous owners kept it in the water year round also (southern boat).  If they installed one, where is the most likely location.  I haven't dropped the electrical panel yet, but things look a little tight to fit a brick sized box back there.  I haven't really looked yet, does the wall at the foot of the bed come out for access?  Any tricks?  thanks for the help and info.

I need to add a couple switches to my electrical panel.  I would like to keep the panel looking as original as possible. I've found the DC rocker switches, but have not been able to locate the push/push/CB switches used on the AC side.  Are they still available or do I need to add a rocker and separate CB.

I am trying to purchase a second propane tank to use as a spare/back up.  The one I have is much smaller than the standard BBQ tank.  9" diameter, stands 10 3/4" tall.  Some people have refered to it as a 10# tank, but trying to order one through the local lp dealer and a RV dealer the 10# they have are much bigger.  Tank was manufactured by Worthington Cylinder.  I have written to Worthington, awaiting their response. I would like to stay with this size tank because it fits in the propane storage locker that was installed in the lazerette.  Anybody have any ideas where to find one?

Luna Loca currently has 5 batteries, all fairly new wet cells.  Battery 1 is a bank of 3, Battery 2 has the remaining 2.  Not quite sure why it was set up this way.  When cruising I use 1 as the house bank, and hold 2 for starting the engine/raising the anchor.  However the engine is always started before using the windlass, so not sure why I need 2 batteries on the "engine" bank. It would make more sense to me to rearrange the banks into a 4/1 split.  If I do this will I have cause problems with the battery charger/ alternator during the charging process?   Or since everything seem to be working fine, just leave well enough alone  :confused:

Took Luna Loca out last night.  Trip around the harbor with a stop at the pump out.  Due to other commitments, this was only the third time away from the dock this season.  Performance since the last time out was terrible.  Took forever to get the boat moving.  Also the max rpm's I could attain was about 2200, used to easily get 2800-3000.  My guess is marine growth/barnacles have fouled the prop.  Will a wire brush clean up the prop?  Or is some sort of scraper required?  Can it be done from the surface, or is a trip under required?  are there ways than other  brushing/scraping?  Planning a 4th of July trip, need the performance back.

When I recently installed my new water heater, I got a nice warning in the box about using a Galvanic Isolator to prevent the small DC current from running between the boat and the dock through the ground wire in the power cord.  I have a Guest Model 2520 battery charger.  Not much paper about it.  Not sure if it is original equipment or an add on.  If it came with the boat it would make it a 1989/90 model, an add on could be newer or older. Looking at the Guest web page, they say the chargers have a built in isolator.  Anybody know if all model years of the 2520 have this feature?  Will this stop the current the warning mentioned?  Have emailed Guest, but have not yet recieved a reply.  Happy Sailing

Just purchased a 9.2 Seaworthy from Boat US, got a used Nissan 5hp.  Having a great time motoring around the harbor.  Marina's a bit tight on space.  Not really room to keep the inflatable floating behind the boat, and the shore storage racks are a pain to put the dink up after every weekend.  Considering stern davits.  Saw the example on the projects page, looking for opinions on which is the best brand to go with and of course best place to purchase.  Happy sailing.

Replaced the Seaward S600 last night.  Straight forward.  Removed the door and frame under the sink.  Undid the connections for the water, engine coolant and electricity and it just slid right out the hole.  Installation was just the reverse.  The mounting tabs are slightly different than the original so I will need to come up with some sort of adapter plate to hold the heater in place.  Before the change the water pump would cycle about every 3-5 minutes.  After the change it held pressure for over 30 minutes before I turned the pump off.  

I took the cover off the old tank.  The weld that failed was internal.  Water was leaking out of the tank around one of the coolant input nipples.  Would have been too hard to repair.

Think all the major stuff is done.  Ready to spend some time on the water, rather than repairing.

The light on the flexible goose neck at the Nav Station has stopped working. I assume it is the bulb as nothing else has changed in that area.  What is the trick to removing the case to access the bulb.  Case looks too fragile to attack without first knowing the proper method of entry. TIA, Ken

Been away on business, finally getting back to the boat.  Before I left, as I was shutting off through hulls, I felt water where it shouldn't be.  I think my "leaking water heater" is really the fresh water pump.  It has a slow leak that runs down the case, then along the mounting board, drips down on the water heater mount then runs under the water heater becoming visible at the inboard edge.  Picked up a rebuild kit.  Will fix the pump tonight.  Hopefully that will solve the problem. Will keep you posted.

Ken Juul
Luna Loca $1090

Where did evidence of leaks appear?  I have looked at all the fittings, see no sign of leakage.  There is rust around the forward engine coolant hose, but no moisture, and I am not loosing coolant.  What I am seeing is a small trickle from the center of the of the heater forward when viewed from the access door on the side of the galley counter.  I took off the panel that covers the heater's electrical elements, the insulation is dry around all the fittings, but damp along the lower inside heater edge getting  progressively wetter toward the center of the tank.  I don't know enough about the construction/layout of the heater, and it is impossible to remove the cover with the heater in place.  Is it likely a pin hole leak?  Are there unseen fittings or plugs that could be leaking, weeping down the tank and collecting at the bottom?  I think I will end up having to pull the tank to troubleshoot the leak.  Trying to decide whether to purchase a replacement before I pull it or if leaks are normally repairable. Plastic fittings are always suspect.  I may just replace them on principle and see what happens.  I would need new ones for a new tank anyway.  I am assuming the tank is original, which would make it 11 years old.  What is the normal life?  Am I due for a new one anyway?  Thanks for the inputs.
Ken Juul
Luna Loca #1090

Been living aboard 3 nights a week since we bought our '90 C-34 in mid Jan.  Been gradually fixing things.  The water pump cycles much more than I would expect, even with no taps on.  Found several leaking fittings and what appears to be a leak in the water heater.  I have not pulled the covers off to determine where the leak is from, and at this point it is not bad enough to change the water heater, but my question is.  Should this have been found on the survey?  The boat was surveyed in Spring 2000 for the previous owner and again in Dec 2000 by the same surveyor.  Should he have found the leak?  It is a small trickle along the inboard edge barely visible.  Do I have any recourse to make the surveyor pay for it, or is it not worth the effort.  Thanks for any insight on how to play the boaters game.