Topics

I have a unusual incident coming from my distribution panel, it seems to be making electricity,  with the battery selector switch in the off position,   and all negative wires removed from the house battery bank I get a spark when touching the positive on the battery with the + lead from the battery selector switch.  It is a fairly strong spark that diminishes after a couple touches, wait 5 minutes and the spark comes back again.


All shore power is disconnected, I have isolated the reserve battery and disconnected the battery combiner, and the "C" post wire from the battery selector switch has been disconnected at the starter solenoid.  I virtually have no power at the panel but still get the spark. All rocker switches are in the off position,  I get a feeling this may be draining my battery  even with the selector switch on off.  My DVM doesn't show any volts, but the dang spark is still there??????

Is there capacitors behind the panel that won't drain or what the heck is going on.

I am starting to wish I wouldn't have named my boat GhostRider. 

Just installed a new Mondo alternator with a internal regulator from Blue Circle, before installation, I changed the #10 output wire from the switch to a Positive Buss bolt, which is connected to the starter solenoid. (after I did a harness upgrade) at the engine instrument panel.

My new Alternator got so hot I can smell it, and the case will sizzle water,  I am thinking it is because  the battery voltage is down in the 11.3-5 area after a weekend,  and it is working so hard, I don't remember this happening when I had my motorala 55 in.I have 4 T105's, I'm thinking  I will have to replace the batteries as they are 5 years old and even on shore power charging, I can't get them above 12.10-20, and maybe that is the whole problem. or maybe I need a bigger wire from the output on the Alt.

But will the Alternator get so hot it will destroy itself by trying to charge 4 discharged  Golf cart batteries?  Ironically even at 11.3-5 volts, measured with a DVM at the batteries, my engine will spin right over and start.

I have checked the archives and some say they like the heat coming out of the head door, so maybe it is normal that hot,  I don't think so though any advice,  Thanks guys

A while ago, my alternator wasn't putting out, however the tach still worked, so I tightened the belt, cleaned all the electrical ends, that didn't work so I took the alt in, it tested bad, bought a new one from Blue Circle, it wouldn't put out either, started following the wires, that's where I found the problem.

I erroneously assumed, (should have read the archives better) that if I had a voltmeter, the harness upgrade had been done. It wasn't.  In fact the plug behind the instrument panel was horribly melted and corroded, (luckily no fire) resulting in no continuity in the Alternator wire.

The gist of this post is not the Alternator problem, but to remind other owners, that no matter how many neat upgrades are done, how much electrical has been added, or how nice everything is, PLEASE SEE IF THE HARNESS HAS BEEN UPGRADED.

Stu and Ron and others have been warning us of this problem many times, but due to the fact I had a voltmeter, I didn't pay attention as close as I should have, I now know that in 88 we had voltmeters but still had the old harness. (in fact if someone were to ask me it the upgrade had been done, I would have said yes)

I am going to cut that plug out of there and either use a terminal strip, or hard wire the ends to the instrument panel.  Then check the engine end.  according to the archives,  I should be able to run the  output wire from the Alternator to the batteries instead of up to the switch as before. "right"?

The PO was a member of this site, many upgrades had been done, dedicated starter battery, combiner, propane locker, 4 T105's, glow plug solenoid upgrade, ect, and was very particular in what he did on the boat, all these neat things  except the most important, the harness upgrade.  So please  check it out as I should have. (It is so easy to take a peek)

As Stu and Ron say, this is one upgrade that can save your life

My bilge pump isn't very  reliable this year, seems like I have to activate the float switch a few times before the pump pumps, It runs every time I activate the switch, just doesn't pump, and when it does pump, it pumps a real healthy stream.  I have removed it from the base to check it, there doesn't seem to be any debri involved. I have no check valve in the line.  I did access the archives, and found a similar problem  back in 2001 but no replies.  Any ideas? New Pump? appreciate any ides before I buy.  Thank you  Bob

When commissioning and waxing my boat I noticed that where the little legs on the swim ladder contact the boat severe dimples have occurred.  These go through the gel coat and look unsightly, anyone had this problem and what did you do?  Is there something that can be glued on the boat to take up the impact?  I could probably figure it out but wanted to see what others have done.  Thanks   Bob

I have a ST60 Wind speed instrument, I noticed last fall at the marina, my boat was registering 25 knots of wind speed true, and all the boats around me were clocking 35 knots of wind.  That explains why last summer I noticed the wind seemed blowing harder than it seemed according to my intruments.
Has anyone had this problem? I have read the book a few times and am hoping I can recalibrate this summer, but any input would be appreciated, the way I am interpreting  the book, it says to set the wind speed to reflect the current wind conditions, but how do we know what they are?  Thank you  Bob

Hi All, does any one know where I can find a certain holding tank fitting?   Roc posted it last summer, however I have exhausted my knowledge of the internet to find one like it.  I am going to try post a picture of it here by clicking on additional options below and attach it.  Thank you  Bob

Just a update, finally got my midship cleat put in, and the deck thickness in the area between the front of the inside track and the gunnel  is 3/4", It was a question that didn't have a definate answer, I didn't bring up the original post as it was so long

Hi everyone, just got done reading the archievs to try determine what may be wrong with my alternator, this weekend I looked down and saw zero rpm reading and around 10volts on the voltage meter, I checked the output on the alternator and couldn't get a reading, checked my batterys and they were down to 11 volts, usualy I get at least a 13 plus reading when the motor is running.  according to the archeives, I should check for loose connections, belts, excessive heat build up ect.  

here is my question, after a while the tack started to work again, but still no output from the alternator.  Can this be so?, if the alternator is bad, should the tack still work? I didn't have time to go through the checks, had to go home as soon as we docked, so I have some time to ask these questions before I go back to the boat for the trouble shoot.  Could it be that the alternator simply went out and I have to replace it.  Seems odd that the tack and alternator were both out, then the tack kicks in. but not the alternator output. Thanks guys

getting ready to install my midship cleat.  I read the archieves and they all say the cleat should be forward of the inside track, but at the dock, the midship I mean the closest point of the apex of the boat is further aft, about where the scupper is.  I read craig tillmans folding cleat post, and he has his forward of the waste fitting, Which seems to be where the factory is putting them now.  However, those are also  forward of the center of the boat, before I drill holes, would like further advice.  I do know the sliding cleat I have on the outside track is to far aft.  I am forced to single hand lately and would really like that midship cleat.  there is a cleat about 3 1/2 feet in front of the end of the inside track, not sure what they are for as when they are used the back of the boat clearly swings way out from the dock  any advice? thank you Bob

has anyone ever cut a new hole and installed another fitting on top of the holding tank in order to inspect the tank, install a monitor, or to run another vent line forward?  If so do you remember what you used, I would like to install a 1" barbed elbow on top of the tank and run another vent line as others have done.  88 C34, it has a black tank.  Thank you Bob

Just received my new 8" 2 hole midship cleat, does anyone know the thickness of the deck in that area, a few inches in front of the waste hole.   Have searched the archives and can't find it.  1988 "34". 

Also when they say you should oversize the hole and fill with epoxy, then drill to the correct size, "How much oversize are they talking," Thank you

By the way, the cleat came with a 5/16" hole, I over sized it to 3/8".  It is a SS cleat from Defender for 50 bucks.

I know there is extensive information in the achieves, but I get conflicting answers, the bottom line, when I pump my head the smell is so great coming out of the vent, people want to jump overboard.  I am talking about just walking by the head and giving it one pump on the handle and the boat reeks. I know the smell is coming out of the vent hole in the stanchion because my GOOD buddy put his nose there when I pumped to check it. (we did get him back on board).

I have the elbow in the vent line to eliminate sharp bends, I use KO as directed.  I see where using a carbon filter in the vent line works for some but I have also read that it actually hurts the system, preventing fresh air to help the good bugs.   I have read that a 1" line max 3' is best for the vent line, but our boat configuration won't let us upgrade without a lot of changes.

I never noticed this problem the first year and half I owned the boat, now it seems to be getting worse, I am good after a pump out and a good rinse for a couple days, last fall I really cleaned it good, even removed the intake hose on the tank and rinsed it through that. I leave the boat for a week and the problem starts up again. I hate to drop the hook around other boats.

Does anyone have the solution?  anyone ever put another vent line in? I have thought about putting 2 vent lines in, one with the carbon filter for flushing the head, and one without the filter, only a shut off valve, kept open to provide the good bugs with air and close it when you flush the head  Thanks guys. I have ordered peggys book.

Hi Guys, well here we go again, last fall my engine wouldn't start unless I fogged it with starting fluid, I know not a good idea, and when I shut the engine off, it would start with no problem after that.  I replaced all three glow plugs this winter and done the solenoid upgrade, here is the problem, all 3 new glow plugs failed, I have bench tested them and can't get any heat out of them, the first time I tried to start my engine, it kind of galloped along until it finally started.  I did get a voltage drop which got progressively weaker until now there is no voltage drop.

guys I only got one bad start with the new glow plugs, what's going on that I destroy my glow plugs.  I have 14 volts to each one, but they just won't heat up, and when I remove them, they are wet with fuel.

I have put a MOM switch in the engine compartment so I know the solenoid is getting voltage to the plugs, I get nothing at the plug until I activate the solenoid, then get 14 volts but no heat.

I  have been trying to start while plugged into shore power.  I now know that is a no-no, but I do believe since I got the boat and I was real dumb then, that's the way I always started the boat and didn't destroy the plugs for 2 seasons anyway.

in a test,  If I put the small threaded end (where the wire goes) on the battery positive, and the the body of the plug (where it enters the engine) on the negative side of the battery, it should heat up right?  well none of the 3 new ones heat up.  I have read all the posts from the archives and didn't come up with a answer on destroying new glow plugs almost instantly.  I will order 3 more new ones, but am understandably nervous about putting them in.      Any Ideas?  will 14 volts while plugged in to shore power wipe out the plugs right away?  could I have gotten 3 new bad ones?  Thanks guys   Bob

Hi all, would like to thank everyone for the good advice given on the board.  Over the last few days, I installed the glow plug solenoid upgrade, installed a mom switch, retorqued my keel bolts, put VC 17 on the boat using the mix it and transfer it to a dish soap bottle, used a 3" roller.  cleaned my rub rail with lacquer thinner.   Finished my galley shelf. put a hook in the v berth insert,  Next project a cockpit shower.  They guys in the boats next to me think I am a very knowledgeable fellow.  However, the secret is you guys.  Thanks a bunch.  Bob
PS:  has anyone put a better access door to the fuel tank shut off valve?  I have a access port to the valve under the cockpit locker, but what a pain to access it.

Has anyone ever installed a ice maker on the boat, I bought one for the house from home depot, will fit under the nav station, puts out ice every 6 minutes.  It takes 145 watts according to the info data tag. would like to use it from the inverter when out there.  Anybody got a better Idea to make ice? 

Hi All, changed glow plugs yesterday, was going to do the upgrade and the mom upgrade from mark elkin, but couldn't find enough room on the starter solenoid post to put the terminals, I  have a dedicated starting battery through a combiner on it in addition to the house bank,  and the nut barely covers the last thread, anyone have any ideas on running the #8 wires suggested? or am I doing it wrong.

And Ron, the old glow plugs quit showing a voltage drop and the engine wouldn't start, with the new plugs,I now get a voltage drop but after about 45 seconds I couldn't get the new glow plugs to feel warm.  normal?  I think I am ok, didn't try to start the engine as I am on the hard.

Also changed the hinges on the lower cabinet door like stu did.  removed some brightwork for home work, and installed the galley shelf above the sink, been busy but would like to do the important upgrades.  Thanks guys, appreciate your time.   Bob

 For emergency situations, has anyone looked into one of the  spring starters for their engine?  just curious as there is little do boat wise during the winter but ask questions.  It looks like a good thing to have if you can get one to fit, how else can you start your engine with zero battery power, I know you need power for the glow plugs, but in a pinch you could "fog" the compartment with starting fluid.  I have never seen this topic on a spring starter come up and thought I would ask.

Just remembered breaking my fuel cap last fall,  Ron, according to the achieves you mention changing to the stainless steel one.  I looked up Catalina direct and see one for $29.50, it takes a inch and half hose, is this the one you remember using?  Or did you or anyone else find anything out there cheaper.  Getting my list of boat projects ready for the spring.  Thank you   Bob Gatz     88 C34 hull #818

Has anyone ever contemplated the installation of a outboard motor kick up bracket permanently installed for emergency propulsion in case of engine failure our related problems, fuel, batteries ect.  The boat next to me has one on his boat, "Cal 30", he has the same motor we have. It was on the boat when he bought it and decided to leave it on for emergencies,  I gotta admit the idea has merit,  use your dinghy motor when all else fails.

Project for this winter is to remove my teak and refinish, has anyone experienced Signature Honey Teak?, I am on Lake Superior and the cetol is flaking off, touch up doesn't match and is starting to look "spotty", thanks, I have done a search got a lot of ideas how to remove the cetol.    Bob on "Ghostrider" hull #818

HI All, after reading previous posts on glow plugs for about a hour, I learned a lot of information, but am still confused.  I tried to start my boat 1988 C34 Hull 613, this weekend, Temp about 40f, I engaged the glow plugs, got the voltage drop as usual on the gauge,  knowing it was cold, kept the glow plugs engaged about 40 seconds, the motor felt like it would start but wouldn't, I then engaged the glow plugs a little longer, noticed the voltage drop was less than the first time, the motor started for like one revolution and stopped, I waited for awhile, then engaged the glow plugs again and found no voltage drop at all. At this time, I shut the intake water and turned the engine over several times, hopeing it would start but no luck.

I put the voltage meter on the glow plug and with the ignition in the first position, voltage was zero, had a helper turn the key to activate the glow plugs, and got a little over 14 volts to each plug, held it on for about a minute, at no time did any of the plugs get even remotely warm. I then jumped a wire from my start battery 2 feet away and held it on the glow plug, it still read over 14 volts, no heat, tried starting motor anyway, but did not start.  At this time in as much as I had to move, I did the no-no, I barely fogged starting fluid about a foot away from the intake and the engine started instantly, I motored about 5 miles to my new slip with no problems.

Question:  I am obviously getting 14+ volts to the glow plugs testing each one of them individually, I did not do a Ohm test, I guess I didn't know how, or what the resistance should be, I now know it should be 1 -1.2 Ohms.  I have not done the solenoid upgrade yet.  it always started  after about 20 seconds. Do you think all my plugs went out that morning?  Perhaps they have been going out and the last one went.  When I do the Ohm test, can I do it while the plug is in the engine, and do I disconnect the positive wire

If my plugs were good, isn't  jumping a wire from a good battery to the plug the same as turning the key to activate voltage to the plug? I can get the wire from the pos side of the battery to "spark" on the intake manafold, but can not get it to spark on the glow plug, if that means anything.

I am 160 miles away right now in lake superior, and will do the Ohm test when I get there, Any help I can get would be highly appreciated, Thank you   Bob   

am in the process of building doors for my 1988 34 hull 613, these doors will have removable plexiglass inserts and screened.  Can't find anything on the projects page, but I have seen similar doors on other boats, has anyone built a door like this?  If I can't find anything I will build it and contribute to the projects   Bob

I have a 88 catalina 25 kubota motor, hull 613, don't have a oil pressure gauge, just a light which I am not sure works, I have read the archieves but couldn't find where anyone actually installed a guage at the engine instrument panel, has anyone done this "upgrade"?  If so what did you use and where did you connect from on the engine, did you have to replace the old sending unit?, boat is 160 miles away otherwise I may be able to diagnose some of this.  thank you, appreciate your help.  Bobg

I know "crimp" "solder" and heat shrink, but on my boat AC wiring I just can't seem to get the wire "stainless?" hot enough, and if I use a propane torch, it will work, but it burns everything around it.  Does anyone have information on what to use to get it hot enough to solder?  The electric plug in one I have doesn't do it, and the bunsen solder iron doesn't do it either.  Thanks in advance   Bob on Ghostrider, 1988 hull #613

Hi All, I am the guy with the earlier post on engine instrument cluster problem.  I do believe the problem was in the ignition switch.  Before I replaced the switch, when I turned it on, and over to heat the glow plugs, the alarm noise would really deepen, indicating a major draw on the switch, I did notice the wire ends were darkened.  jWith the new switch, there is no different tone to the noise, the only indication I have that the glowplugs are on is the drop at the voltage meter. (my little light must be burned out)  and of course the motor starting.
I noticed I do not have the glowplug solenoid uipgrade installed, will get right on it.  Sometimes a little trouble with the boat gets us to learn a lot, and with the help from this board, we can usually get it fixed.  By the way, the ignition switch was bought at a marine store for 17 bucks, I checked with auto stores and it was a real hassel, I must have looked at 20 switches trying to find one that worked.  Went to the local marine store and there was the direct replacement, so sometimes marine stores aren't as bad price wise as we think.  Thanks guys,   Bob

This started here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4381.msg25599.html#msg25599

One more question guys, (ya right).  I was 14 miles out in a anchorage with my 2 teenage daughters. went to start the boat and had nothing at the key.  Troubleshot the batteries, all good, took the cluster out, (what a job, the fuel shut off handle is in the way,) was able to kind of get it open, long story short, ran a negative ground wire to the cluster, didn't help, ran a positive wire from the positive side of my dedicated start battery, touched it to a terminal on the ignition switch and "eureka" everything powerd up, Blower, and buzzer, and glowplugs.  started the motor pulled anchor headed for home.  when we got there, I couldn't duplicate the problem, everything worked, however I will never trust it again. 

Question one:   do you think it is the switch>? if so, do I have to go through Catalina to get one? this switch also activates the glow plugs.

Question two:  I was able to turn the engine over jumping the solenoid, but the engine wouldn't start, I'm thinking the glowplugs had to be activated to start.  Can this be done someway without the ignition switch? 

Question three:  Do I need the electric fuel pump running to start the engine, or does my engine have a hi pressure mechanical fuel pump to keep the engine running in case the electric fuel pump doesn't activate>or fails

I realize some of these questions should be self evident, but the boat is 160 miles away and I didn't bring my books with me and won't be going up there for 2 weeks, I will do further research on this website when I get time, but I am leaving for St louis, from Mpls and won't get to it it for about 10 days.  Thankyou all very much for any information you could share.  I will be checking the website in a internet cafe and want to order what I need while gone.   Bob G

I have a metal plate above the rear seat, it has the number 613 stamped on it, can't read it well, but wondering what that plate is, it is about 2x3 inches.  Could that be the hull number?  Thanks  Bob

Making a galley shelf like the ones seen in the archieves, I can't fing anything on how to hang the shelf to the ceiling, do you drill through the boat and put bolts, or is the roof strong enough to run screws?  would like to have wood dowles instead of steel pipe with a flange, although not criticle to do the wood.  Any ideas would be appreciated, also how to connect the other end to the boat.  Thanks guys   Bob

My head floresent light died, I bought a new element but it still won't come on, I removed the light fixture and was shocked how much they cost to buy, does anyone have a different approach to a light in the head? West Marine shows mine at about $127.00, the 110 fixture at walmart is only about 15 bucks, why is 12 volt so high? probably should go to LED, but they are expensive also. I did notice the light over the Fridge, has a element in it that will also work in a 110 light fixture:  evidently 110 floresencts will work in 12 volt, can anyone shed any "light" on the subject Thanks,  Bob

I have a m25xp, checked the transmission fluid, what a pain, dipstick comes up right under the HX, you have to pull it out with 2 fingers, (laying on your side in the back berth), by that time, the fluid is wiped of the stick, and you don't know what you got, I did get a dowle rod and marked it the same as the dip stick and was able to read the fluid, does anyone do it different? Do you check it with the cap screwed all the way in? the book says to read it at the groove in the dipstick.   Thank you  Bob

On my mast boom, I have 2 Garhauer reefing blocks, they slide on a track and have a part which goes in the holes on the slide to lock them where you want them, the part that goes in the track holes are missing, does anyone know of a fix other than buying the whole block?  Thank You, 88 catalina 34  Bob

HI, the lifeline covers on my boat are cracked and are missing pieces, does anyone know where I can get the life line vinyl covers, the ones I have are split so I can put them on over the existing life lines.  The ss  3/16" line seems fine, I am in lake superior.  Bob on "Ghostrider" Catalina 34, 1988,  Thank you

Last fall while backing I hit a rock and took a chunk out of my rudder, does anyone know what the composition of the rudder is?  A friend who fixes bodys on boats will help me with the project, but he would like to know what the rudder is made off, we may have to use a insert of some sort before fiberglassing. I would like to send a picture of the damage, but I cannot figure out how to put it on here.  The damage is in the outside lower corner, kind of peeled back the fiberglass and ground up what ever was in there, thank you for your help, Bob on "ghostrider",  The boat is 160 miles from here and would like to bring what we need the first trip.

last fall, I was in my dinghy which had a wet floor, grabbed the backstay to get out and got a good jolt, any ideas why?  I was plugged into shore power.  I took my volt meter and could detect current from the back stay, I connected one end to the backstay and dropped the other into the water, the needle moved slightly. I check other boats around me, and one other boat showed the same symptom. some boats did not move the needle on the volt meter.  Last summer the boat 4 slips down got hit by lightning, the same lightning took out my battery charger.  I changed it and was back in business. I havn't noticed anything wrong with the boat except for that puzzeling current from the back stay to the water.  Any Ideas on what to check?  Thanks, the boat is on the hard right now in Bayfield WI.  Bob

Just got back from ASA sailing school, old salt instructor said our exposed keel bolts in the bilge is a perfect place to install a strap, (battery cable) or such, he said to bolt it to the mast and to one of the keel bolts. Any Ideas in this one?  thanks  Bob    34 1988 model

Just got back from asa sailing school, they talked about leeward angle when chart plotting for various wind conditions, they said it should be listed in our boat data, (catalina 34, 1988)I can't find it, any body got any ideas?

Hi Alll,
I have heard you should fill the trransmission completley when winter storage, (oct to May) how important is this, my boat is 320 mile round trip, is it really necessary? 
   Also I have a bent dorado, the winter tarp I put on the boat severly bent the dorado, I have seen SS dorado's on other boats and they sure look nice, any Idea where I can get them?  Thanks much guys appreciate any info

Sat morning a boat 4 sllips down from me took a direct hit of lightening,.
   I thought I was OK, but that evening while on the hook, I noticed my cabin lights would blink every 7-10 seconds, and the reverse polarity light was on.I would hear a tick noise each time, seemed to be coming from the shore power charger, even though  I was on the hook,also I was losing battery power, everything seemed to work that day, had it on Auto Pilot, all nav stuff, CD radio, VHF, fridge, cabin lights ect, all seemed to work, My daughter, (who can hear better than me) said the ticking noise was going on all day but thought it was normal.  I thought I better disconnect the batteries and save them for the morning engine start,
   thats when all hell broke loose, even shutting the batteries off, the ticking noise stayed on, when I disconnected and connected the battery terminals, a lot of sparks were evident even with everything on the boat shut off, there are a lot of negative battery sparks,  my reverse polarity light is on also,
  I left the cabin bank batterys disconnected, activated the spare starting battery and fired up the enging and took off, all the panel lights came on, even though the switch was off and the battery selector switch was in the off position, I thought I would hit the bilge switch, and immediatly, all panel stuff died, and the battery volt gauge went from about 13 to 2-3 volts, AND  the alternator went from putting out 14 volts, to 12, which declined on the way home.  NOW, when I try to hook up the house bank, sparks fly and everything comes on even with the battey selector swith in off position, and all panel selection switches off,
       this is long winded, but "any ideas?  it is a 1988 catalina

I did a search in the archieves and got some ideas, but any help would be greatly appreciated,

Hi all, I have recently purchased a 1988 Cat 34,  just got back from the boat and when at shore power, I don't have any battery power in the morning to start the engine, especially if I run the fridge.  I must revert to my dedicated starting battery, it seems my charger isn't putting out, I can hear a humming noise in the rear of the boat from inside but can't seem to find the thing.  I just got the boat and am new at it.  Also when running the engine, the gauge on the engine panel puts out 12 volts, then after a while, jumps to 14 volts. normal?  The batterys (2) are located under the setee next to the sink, the starting battery is behind the engine with a seperate switch.  When I find the charger, should there be a green light/red light to show charged or "charging?"
I have spent a hour looking through the archievs and can"t quite seem to come up with an answer,
The shore power is plugged in, circuits are not popped and all things AC work, just can't top off the batteries.  Is there a way I can check at the battery cables if the charger is putting out?  with cables disconnected should they read voltage?
thanks much everyone, sure do love the boat.

I don't get any hot water under AC, the circuit breaker seems to work, does anyone think it might be the element? I have a 1988 and the boat is 3 hours away, would like to buy a element and bring it with me, does anyone know what kind of element I need?  I forgot to look before I left. Thanks much  Bob

My Boat is on the hard in the gradle, upon inspection I noticed a lot of the weight is on the keel, I have a wing keel, inside the boat, the fiberglass is actually bowed up in the mast area, has anyone experienced this?  I wasn't there when they put it away last fall, hopefully it will straighten out when I put it in the water. Evidently these boats can't take a lot of keel pressure?  I called the yard and asked them to try and raise the boat off the keel somehow, any thoughts out there?  Thanks  Bob

I noticed  a few threads down that people talk about winterizing the thru-hulls, when I pulled my 88 34 out last fall I did nothing to the thru-hulls, was this a mistake?  I bought the boat in October 2005, I have pulled my Ericson out several winters and did nothing, is something different about the "34's"?  did I screw up big time by not opening them or "winterizing" I didn't see anything in the manual   Thanks, first post, just joined yesterday    Bob