Difference between revisions of "Replacing Sliding Doors"

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Port Salon Cabinet View
 
Port Salon Cabinet View
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Starboard Salon Cabinet View
 
Starboard Salon Cabinet View
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[[Image:Starboard_salon.JPG]]
  
 
Salon to V-berth View
 
Salon to V-berth View
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[[Image:Salon_to_v-berth.JPG]]
  
 
Port Aft Salon Door
 
Port Aft Salon Door
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Port Middle Salon Door
 
Port Middle Salon Door
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Port Middle Salon Door
 
Port Middle Salon Door
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[[Image:Port_salon_middle_door]]
  
 
Port Forward Salon Door
 
Port Forward Salon Door
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Cain Attachment Detail
 
Cain Attachment Detail
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[[Image:Cain_attachement_detail.JPG]]

Revision as of 11:48, 12 February 2010

Q: Has anyone come up with a better looking cover for the shelves behind the early model 34s than those ugly black plastic sliding doors..and if not can those be replaced, as one of mine is broken?


Yes, there is a nice ash batten cover that will go over the black plastic sliding doors. There is a picture and further details in the C-34 section of the Aug 1997 MAINSHEET Magazine.

Ron Hill, Apache


Another option... I purchased sliding doors made out of 1/8" teak plywood; these were cut to size and shipped to me by Yukon Lumber, in Norfolk, VA. They look great and cost about $70, including cutting and shipping. They're thinner than the original, but that's no problem, and in fact slide more easily

Bryan Pfaffenberger, Juliana #680


Yet another option... The PO removed the black plastic sliding doors and installed cabinet doors. The doors and frame are made of teak. The doors have pre-fabricated wicker cane panels. The PO added a cabinet in the v-berth to match. They provide a lot of space to store stuff that won't end up flying around on a close reach in a stiff breeze. The cabinetry has enough clearance to allow easy removal of the chain plate rods for re-bedding. These cabinets are not easily removed. the PO had the doors made from scratch. If you look at the picture "Cain attachment detail", you can see the details of the door construction. The door frame is 1x2 teak stock that has been routed with a rail and stile bit set to form the connecting joints of the frame. A straight router bit was used to make the inside rabbit for the cane panel in the door frame and the outer rabbit so that the door frame sets into the cabinet. The pre-made cane wicker panel is held in the frame with teak strips that are held in place with screw into the frame. The salon cabinet doors clear the salon lights that are mounted under the deck by at least 1.5". I placed a tape measure in the shots too so you could get a perspective on how they relate to the original shelves. Notice that the cabinet face tucks in behind the original lower shelf lip. The cabinet face is screwed to this lip to hold it in place. The top is secured at the ends of the cabinets and with teak cleats which run behind the top rail of the cabinet behind the chain plate rods. The cleat is screwed into the deck and the cabinet face to the cleats. You can see the teak plugs in some of the pictures at the top of the cabinet frame.

Paul Shields, pablo's girl #551

Port Salon Cabinet View Port salon.JPG

Starboard Salon Cabinet View Starboard salon.JPG

Salon to V-berth View Salon to v-berth.JPG

Port Aft Salon Door Port aft salon door.JPG

Port Middle Salon Door Port middle salon door with dimensions.JPG

Port Middle Salon Door File:Port salon middle door

Port Forward Salon Door Port forward salon cabinet door.JPG

Cain Attachment Detail Cain attachement detail.JPG