Difference between revisions of "Brightwork refinishing"
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(New page: =='''Brightwork Refinishing'''== I just got done refinishing the exterior teak on "Cat Tales" and am really happy with the result, and I am no painter! I used Sikkens Cetol Marine SRD tra...) |
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− | + | '''Toivo Mykkanen, ''[[Cat Tales]]'', Lake Coeur d’Alene, Idaho''' | |
I just got done refinishing the exterior teak on "Cat Tales" and am really happy with the result, and I am no painter! I used Sikkens Cetol Marine SRD translucent satin, but added a gob of Pettit Red Mahogany Paste Wood Filler (#7666) to give the Cetol some life. Plain Cetol is brown and boring, and the Pettit product really livens it up. I used this same combination a year ago and I get a lot of positive comments. | I just got done refinishing the exterior teak on "Cat Tales" and am really happy with the result, and I am no painter! I used Sikkens Cetol Marine SRD translucent satin, but added a gob of Pettit Red Mahogany Paste Wood Filler (#7666) to give the Cetol some life. Plain Cetol is brown and boring, and the Pettit product really livens it up. I used this same combination a year ago and I get a lot of positive comments. | ||
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'''Brightwork Refinishing Steps:''' | '''Brightwork Refinishing Steps:''' | ||
− | + | #Remove all hardware such as lock hasps, snaps, and hinges. | |
− | + | #Sand the old finish with 180-grit wet/dry sandpaper until you can see the grain of the wood. (There is no reason to go to a finer grade of sandpaper, as the grain of most brightwork is fairly open.) | |
− | + | #If any hole plugs have swollen, use a razor-blade style paint scraper to shape down the tops. Sand the plug flush with the wood. (Raised plugs can really make the finish coat look bad!) | |
− | + | #Vacuum up all the dust you have created, and wipe the wood down with a clean cloth shop towel. | |
− | + | #Add Pettit filler to the Cetol until you have the color you are looking for. Stir thoroughly to get the Pettit filler in suspension, and then stir every 20-30 minutes as you work. | |
− | + | #Apply the Cetol/Pettit mixture with a 1 inch or 1.5 inch foam brush per the Cetol directions. Wipe up spills immediately. | |
− | + | #Apply a second coat an hour later. (Instructions say wait 24 hours, but I have had no problems by just waiting until it is tacky.) This second coat will almost completely fill the grain. | |
− | + | #Use acetone to clean up spills you missed, or to areas that you over brushed. | |
− | + | #Come back the next day, admire your work, and decide if you feel you have good enough coverage. If you decide that you need a third coat, use a fresh foam brush, stir the Cetol thoroughly, and apply. If the finish looks okay, reinstall the hardware, and call your crew. | |
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'''Other Hints:''' | '''Other Hints:''' | ||
− | + | *Keep the can of paint on top of its own rag to avoid scratches and drips. | |
− | + | *Wipe up spills immediately with another rag. | |
− | + | *Keep a stick in the can to make stirring easy. | |
− | + | *Use a sheet of sandpaper as a shield when brushing near other surfaces. | |
− | + | *Don’t bother with masking tape as the Cetol will wick underneath it. Just brush carefully and clean up your mistakes. | |
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Fair Winds and Nice Finishes! | Fair Winds and Nice Finishes! | ||
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Latest revision as of 04:00, 21 October 2011
Toivo Mykkanen, Cat Tales, Lake Coeur d’Alene, Idaho
I just got done refinishing the exterior teak on "Cat Tales" and am really happy with the result, and I am no painter! I used Sikkens Cetol Marine SRD translucent satin, but added a gob of Pettit Red Mahogany Paste Wood Filler (#7666) to give the Cetol some life. Plain Cetol is brown and boring, and the Pettit product really livens it up. I used this same combination a year ago and I get a lot of positive comments.
Thought I would pass along the following advice for those getting ready for the fall maintenance work.
Brightwork Refinishing Steps:
- Remove all hardware such as lock hasps, snaps, and hinges.
- Sand the old finish with 180-grit wet/dry sandpaper until you can see the grain of the wood. (There is no reason to go to a finer grade of sandpaper, as the grain of most brightwork is fairly open.)
- If any hole plugs have swollen, use a razor-blade style paint scraper to shape down the tops. Sand the plug flush with the wood. (Raised plugs can really make the finish coat look bad!)
- Vacuum up all the dust you have created, and wipe the wood down with a clean cloth shop towel.
- Add Pettit filler to the Cetol until you have the color you are looking for. Stir thoroughly to get the Pettit filler in suspension, and then stir every 20-30 minutes as you work.
- Apply the Cetol/Pettit mixture with a 1 inch or 1.5 inch foam brush per the Cetol directions. Wipe up spills immediately.
- Apply a second coat an hour later. (Instructions say wait 24 hours, but I have had no problems by just waiting until it is tacky.) This second coat will almost completely fill the grain.
- Use acetone to clean up spills you missed, or to areas that you over brushed.
- Come back the next day, admire your work, and decide if you feel you have good enough coverage. If you decide that you need a third coat, use a fresh foam brush, stir the Cetol thoroughly, and apply. If the finish looks okay, reinstall the hardware, and call your crew.
Other Hints:
- Keep the can of paint on top of its own rag to avoid scratches and drips.
- Wipe up spills immediately with another rag.
- Keep a stick in the can to make stirring easy.
- Use a sheet of sandpaper as a shield when brushing near other surfaces.
- Don’t bother with masking tape as the Cetol will wick underneath it. Just brush carefully and clean up your mistakes.
Fair Winds and Nice Finishes!