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[kh3412]

Our boat is a work in progress. We bought it out of probate so it had been sitting for a while. This past off season had me repairing the two stringers in the bilge, replacing the holding tank, all new hoses for fresh and drain water supply, and installing a hot water heater.
I started by cutting the tabbing that holds the waste tank in, the tank then slides rear and out. Ordered the tank from Ronco the tank number was still on the old tank and was a good number. I had them leave off the pump out for overboard discharge as we are on the great lakes
and can't use it. While the tank was out realized that this was the time to replace the thur-hull with a seacock.

[kh3412]

Since i was replacing all the hose pulled everything from under galley. Once again decided to replace all thur-hulls with seacocks. Had to remove the door and frame on port side of galley to remove old leaky water heater. Removed the shelve the pump was on.

[kh3412]

Used G10 board for the seacock backing plates. Followed Maine Sail's instructions for installing what a great resource. At the same time I was deciding what I was going todo with the stringers. I decided that since the main part of the stringer wood was solid and just the part that
goes down in the sump was bad that was what i was going to replace. Again like last year when I did the mast step I wanted something that was not going to hold water. I decided to make a form to layup solid fiberglass, used a 2x6 as the plug and made the form. While this was all going on took some vacuum bagging plastic and sealed the exposed wood on the stringers and applied vacuum to aid in drying. Templates were made and the fiberglass was cut from the pieces I had laid up. The pieces were not as thick as the wood was but I was sure they were more than strong enough. Glassed the pieces in and covered with roving.

[kh3412]

When under the sink replaced the drain hoses and installed PVC above the water line to connect the two sinks. I came down to the seacock with 3/4 inch hoe as the 1 inch hose from the factory goes into 3/4 adaptor at the thru-hull and is not available in any thing but PVC. I did not want PVC below the water line. Installed the seacocks with backing plates under the sink. Took out the ice box drain tee and installed a valve at the ice box drain and will let the ice box drain to the bilge if needed. Removed the foot pump and now have a spare for sea water pump. Photo shows the 1inch to 3/4 PVC fittings from factory.

[kh3412]

For the supply hoses I went with what is basically air brake hose for trucks using 3/8 inch, very easy to work with and takes up less room leaving the suction side 1/2 hose from the tanks to the pump. Using 3/8 allowed me to make small manifolds for distribution of supply lines. The water heater used is a Bosch point of use tank 4 gallons 115 volt. Smaller than a marine tank in size it is much cheaper although it does away with heating water from the motor. This was discussed with the Admiral and she is ok with heating water the few times we are away from a dock. It also takes away the problems of bleeding the hoses when changing anti-freeze. the tank hangs on a bracket but I installed a strap just to be sure rough water does not cause a problem. The two tank lines run to a valve installed through the galley cabinet face allowing front, rear or no tanks. 

[kh3412]

Finished last week, splashed boat and was lucky enough not to have any leaks
Paint was applied cabinets put back together and it worked.
Thanks to all who went down this road before and this site for all the info you provide it makes it so much easier.

[Noah]

Congrats, some nice work! What type seacocks and thru-hulls did you use (Marelon or bronze and model)?

[kh3412]

I used Forespar Marelon MF 849 PTFE Seacock in 1/2 and 3/4 inch sizes as what was there. In retrospect a 1 inch for the sink drain would have been nicer but, the sink drains fine and did not have to make a bigger hole.

[Jon W]

Congratulations, looks great!