1986 Catalina 34' Main Cabin Bomar Hatch

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Ahoy!

My Bomar hatch in the salon is leaking! I have determined the gasket must be replaced and at some point the lens needs re-bedding (I'll focus on this later). I can not determine what model hatch this is. It is the original Bomar hatch from 1986 that is mounted on the cabin top above the settee. Is this extruded aluminum or cast aluminum? I am trying to figure out which gasket kit I need to buy. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

-Mike
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#212

Jon W

#1
My Bomar V-berth and salon hatches were also leaking. I used Catalina Direct part number Z2245 for the V-berth trapezoidal hatch. The salon hatch has the same gasket shape as the V-berth hatch. I called Catalina Direct and they gave me Z2243 as the gasket part number used in Z2245 and it fit fine. Part number Z2243 is not on their website (or wasn't at the time) so you ask them how to order it.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

Noah

Does anyone know what year (hull number) they changed hatch and ports models? My 1990 (#1014) has Bomar opening ports aft, Lewmar opening ports in salon and V-berth, Bomar extruded hatch in head, Bomar extruded hatch in saloon, and Lewmar trapezoidal rollstop hatch in V-berth.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

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#3
Thanks Jon W!  :D
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#212

Ron Hill

#4
Noah : You are asking n nearly impossible question to answer for Hull #s.

Catalina changed the hatches like Vberth was solid in 1986, in 1987 to a Bomar (adjusting arm) and then in 1988 to a Lewmar (Rollstop).  They changed the side opening portlights from Beckson in 1986 to Lewmar in late 1987 & 88.  Salon overhead hatch was Bomar (adjusting arm) in 1986 and then Lewmar in 1992/3 ?

Some thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

Noah

1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

sailr4

Mike - When my salon hatch was leaking, I looked for a new gasket. But I decided to go ahead and re-bed the hatch.  It was actually really straight forward and only took an hour or so.  Use Butyl tape. No more leaks.  Never needed a new gasket.

Rob
Rob Fowler,1989 C34 #889 Tall/Wing, M25XP - No Worries, Coronado, CA

I'd rather be in a boat with a drink on the rocks, than in the drink with a boat on the rocks.

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Quote from: sailr4 on June 14, 2018, 06:53:12 AM
Mike - When my salon hatch was leaking, I looked for a new gasket. But I decided to go ahead and re-bed the hatch.  It was actually really straight forward and only took an hour or so.  Use Butyl tape. No more leaks.  Never needed a new gasket.

Rob

Rob,

No kidding? That sounds like a breeze! I've temporarily closed the hatch down on top of a layer of butyl tape and dogged it tight. Seems to be working but definitely not a long term fix! I will look into re-bedding the hatch. Good to know it's not a nightmare of a job.
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#212

Noah

Define "nightmare". A lot depends on what it was bedded with previously as to how hard it is to remove. After removing the screws, a good way to break the sealant bond between the hatch and deck, is to use a multitool with scraper blade attachment inserted under the hatch flange.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Stu Jackson

#9
Mike,

http://c34.org/bomar-hatch-re-bedding/ for my 1986 boat.  Includes the model #.

Ron Hill did another in Feb 2012 for an '88 boat.

A couple of years later it started dripping again.  I used Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure on the port forward edge of the lens inside the moving top, stopped right away, hasn't returned.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

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Quote from: Stu Jackson on June 14, 2018, 09:12:00 AM
Mike,

http://c34.org/bomar-hatch-re-bedding/ for my 1986 boat.  Includes the model #.

Ron Hill did another in Feb 2012 for an '88 boat.

A couple of years later it started dripping again.  I used Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure on the port forward edge of the lens inside the moving top, stopped right away, hasn't returned.

Thank you Stu, you're very helpful!
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#212

Ron Hill

Guys : If you want to remove and rebed a hatch, remove the screws and then use a heat gun to soften the old caulk.  Then pry up with a stiff putty knife.

For those with a MK1, if I had to do it again I'd replace with a Lewmar center hatch. Reason - the adjusting system is like the Bomar hatch in the head.  It's friction and you eliminate that adjustment arm that is stupidly secured on the top - into the plastic lens!!!!  Research show the corner radiuses are nearly identical!

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

anaisdog

Stu, how do i see that write up?  it says it's password protected but i'm logged into c34 site, to post this?  thanks

and sailr4, you replaced the grey gasket material with butyl?  sounds easy!
Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club

Stu Jackson

Quote from: anaisdog on September 06, 2018, 08:46:13 AM
Stu, how do i see that write up?  it says it's password protected but i'm logged into c34 site, to post this? >>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

If you are a C34IA member you were given the pw when you joined.

This explains the differences:

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4782.0.html
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

anaisdog

got it, sorry.  but what was your hatch rebed with, from the grey gasket?
Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club