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Author Topic: replacing anchor box drain through hull  (Read 735 times)

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kerk fisher

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replacing anchor box drain through hull
« on: April 18, 2018, 07:51:57 AM »

The plastic mushroom head of our anchor locker drain Through hull broke off.  I am 600 miles from our boat and want to purchase the part and caulking before I go up to save time. 

1.Does anyone know the make and # of the Through hull?

2.  What is best caulk to re bed the new piece?  Do I apply a bead, let it set up over night, then apply the Through hull?

3.  The old Through hull was applied with silicone.  Ugh.  Anything new out there to to rid the area of this troublesome material?

Thanks, Kerk Fisher.  Into the Mystic II,  1990, Hull#1102
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Kerk Fisher
C34, Into the Mystic II
Hull #1102, 1990
Sailing the North Channel, Lake Huron
908 Wicksbury Place, Louisville, KY 40207
Louisville, KY 40205
502-454-7759
Alternate email: kerk.fisher@kctcs.edu

KWKloeber

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Re: replacing anchor box drain through hull
« Reply #1 on: April 18, 2018, 09:11:35 AM »

Have you called Warren or the parts dept?
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Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
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Noah

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Re: replacing anchor box drain through hull
« Reply #2 on: April 18, 2018, 09:46:25 AM »

 I just completed this job on my 1990 in the water.. Used a 3/4 in Marelon thru-hull caulked with 3M 4000. You will have to saw about 3/4 in.  to 1 in. off the through hull threads first as they are too long. Dry fit first to determine length/thickness of hull and how many threads you want remaining on inside of hull. Tape the threads of the thru-hull inside where you are going to put on the elbow, or whatever through hull to hose barb fitting(s) you are going to use, as the inside threads should be done with teflon tape, not 3M 4000. Spread 3M 4000 caulking on flange of the mushroom from the outside, stick it in the hole and tighten nut from inside. This is a two-person job: one outside to hold the mushroom from turning, and one inside to tighten backing nut up againt the inside of the hull.
« Last Edit: April 18, 2018, 10:18:30 AM by Noah »
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1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

KWKloeber

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Re: replacing anchor box drain through hull
« Reply #3 on: April 18, 2018, 03:27:39 PM »

Noah

Question, what did you use from the thru hull on to "barb" the hose to the thru hull? 

k
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Noah

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Re: replacing anchor box drain through hull
« Reply #4 on: April 18, 2018, 05:17:50 PM »

Reused the existing 90 degree elbow to 3/4 hose barb.
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1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

KWKloeber

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Re: replacing anchor box drain through hull
« Reply #5 on: April 18, 2018, 05:22:13 PM »

Thanks, Noah

I don't have that type set up so have no idea -- what is it, a Forespar Marleon elbow?

k
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Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
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Noah

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Re: replacing anchor box drain through hull
« Reply #6 on: April 18, 2018, 07:46:16 PM »

Ken, to tell the truth, I donít actually know. I was under the V-berth in a not so convenient position.  While I did replace the nylon thru-hull at the bootstripe with a Forespar mushroom, and replaced the 3/4 in. connecting  hose, I did not replace the elbow/barb, which cleaned up ok and looked sound, and did not replace the upper thru-hull, which I assume is also nylon, as it looked good and gets almost no UV exposure located inside the anchor well door/hatch. Someday I may change it too.
« Last Edit: April 18, 2018, 07:51:07 PM by Noah »
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1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

KWKloeber

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Re: replacing anchor box drain through hull
« Reply #7 on: April 18, 2018, 08:28:01 PM »

Ok thanks Noah.  The reason I asked is obviously I don't know what OEM fitting CTY used on the thru hull.  Naturally, the thru hull is  straight thread, and CTY is notorious for having used PVC NPT pipe fittings (above and below the WL.) 

Using a female NPT fitting on a male straight thread is absolutely VERBOTEN (or inserting a straight thread male into an NPT female socket.)   

CTY put a PVC NPT pipe cap on my 1-1/2" unused head direct discharge thru hull (straight thread) (and only SCHEDULE 40 pvc at that!!!)  It is (somewhat) acceptable to go the other direction (NPT male into a straight thread female.)

k
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Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

ChrisOB

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Re: replacing anchor box drain through hull
« Reply #8 on: April 18, 2018, 08:35:09 PM »

Has anyone tried this repair that has a bow water tank?  I can barely get my hand to the underside.  We take a decent amount of green water over the bow so for now I have drilled a limber hole in the base of the Vee berth to drain to the bilge. Any advice would be great.
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kerk fisher

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Re: replacing anchor box drain through hull
« Reply #9 on: April 23, 2018, 12:39:44 PM »

Thanks for your thoughts.  I've spoken with Len in the Parts Dept and he feels he won't be able to be of much help

Who is Warren?

Do you know what the thickness of the hull is at this point?

Ugh.  I wish I were closer!

Thanks, Kerk
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Kerk Fisher
C34, Into the Mystic II
Hull #1102, 1990
Sailing the North Channel, Lake Huron
908 Wicksbury Place, Louisville, KY 40207
Louisville, KY 40205
502-454-7759
Alternate email: kerk.fisher@kctcs.edu

KWKloeber

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Re: replacing anchor box drain through hull
« Reply #10 on: April 23, 2018, 05:16:59 PM »

Warren Pandy @ CTY.  he may have some info or can bird dog it down.

I believe the no is 727 544 6681

-k
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Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Noah

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Re: replacing anchor box drain through hull
« Reply #11 on: April 23, 2018, 06:46:50 PM »

As I previously mentioned, I used a 3/4 marelon thru-hull. You could use a nylon one (like yours and mine that broke) but it wonít last as long. You will probably have to saw off the length of the thru-hull to leave perhaps only five threads to attach whatever tailpiece/hose fitting you had/have. You will know how much after a test dry fit. The hull is thick enough that I didnít need a backing plate to take up any thread when I tightened the marelon thru-hull nut on the inside. I was worried as well, eyeballing it that the hull may not have been thick enough, but it was. Sorry but I donít have an actual thickness measurement. I am GUESSING 3/8- 1/2 in. ?
« Last Edit: April 23, 2018, 06:54:58 PM by Noah »
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1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig
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