pokey engine/transmission?

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anaisdog

There is a fresh coat of vc17 on the bottom of the boat, as i do every year.  also, i can't imagine it would be a dirty bottom when it only happens when the engine is just turned on.  a friend, who is a transmission engineer here at ford and i are going to work on both of our engines tomorrow, changing the trans oil on both.

and no, i didn"t dive yet but i will.  i was racing last night (and came in last but at least we finished!)  i have a fixed 3 blade which i had straightened when i first got the boat, 5 years ago and a new shaft, since it was bent.  i'll let folks know what we find but i need a engine schematic to find the transmission oil.  ideas?  thanks
Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club

Craig Illman

There's an 11/16" hex head on top of the transmission case, the oil is under there. (along with the rest of the dipstick).

Craig

anaisdog

Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club

Stu Jackson

Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

anaisdog

Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club

KWKloeber

Quote from: anaisdog on July 21, 2017, 05:36:07 AM
is there a engine schematic for the m25 diesel, which came on the c34 1986?  we're going to try to change the transmission oil.  thanks

A schematic?  Are you saying in 5 years the tranny fluid hasn't been changed or the level checked?

-k
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

anaisdog

i don't know.  i've had a mechanic looking at my engine and doing the winterizing, all this time.  i assume he checked it, but i don't know and he's doing the ph to mac race so i can't ask
Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club

Stu Jackson

#22
becki,

Tips & Tricks for fluid removal

1.  Look in the "101  Topics" --- there is a whole section on it:  Transmission Fluid 101   http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6417.0.html

2.  Many of us use a syringe, a big plastic one, instead of a turkey baster.  The trick is to get a looong plastic tube that fits snugly on whatever you use to suck it out.

3.  Measure what you take out by putting it into a clear plastic cup, and replace just that amount fr starters.  THEN check the level, using a paper towel at the end of the dipstick without screwing it in.

4.  I have been able to reach my dipstick directly from above, and I use extenders on a socket.  I have put a smidgen of butyl tape inside the socket like glue to raise the stick.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Noah

And look closely as the "I'm filled" line/score on the dipstick is only about 1/4 inch from the tip of the stick.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

KWKloeber

Quote from: Noah on July 21, 2017, 03:36:27 PM
And look closely as the "I'm filled" line/score on the dipstick is only about 1/4 inch from the tip of the stick.

becki, also make sure the vent is clear (the dipstick is hollow and it vents to a (1/16"?) hole in one side of its hex head.)

k
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

KWKloeber

Quote from: Stu Jackson on July 21, 2017, 03:01:49 PM
becki,

2.  Many of us use a syringe, a big plastic one, instead of a turkey baster.  The trick is to get a looong plastic tube that fits snugly on whatever you use to suck it out.

3.  Measure what you take out by putting it into a clear plastic cup, and replace just that amount for starters.  THEN check the level, using a paper towel at the end of the dipstick without screwing it in.


I have found a battery filler works well (don't use that anymore - see other post). 



I can reach the bottom with it's hard plastic tube, but if I couldn't get down to the dipstick hole, the tube also fits vinyl tubing very well.  The bulb volume is large and it sucks well.

And also then the turkey doesn't end up with red drippings for the gravy.

The only thing is, that tranny fluid will make the two parts slippery and the rubber bulb will slip off the plastic stem.  So before it gets gunked up, it needs a tight plastic zip tie around the base of the bulb.

After I didn't use it anymore to evacuate the fluid, I still used it to fill the tranny.  Well not exactly fill.  becki, like you I used to be on the hard on the off season.  I'd change fluid in the fall and fill the tranny FULL.  Not "full" on the dipstick but the tranny case FULL.  I have the plastic stem on the battery filler marked with a small zip tie at the spot that equals the length of the dipstick to the "full" mark.  So, take the full tranny, insert the bulb stem down until the zip tie is at the top of the case.  And suck.  The fluid level is "automatically" set at the correct "full" level.

To fill the tranny I use a "nalgene" plastic bottle with a pointy top, marked at O.3 liter (the HB50 fluid volume.) The tip had a vinyl tube zip tied to it.  Work the tube into the tranny, tip the bottle up and let 'er rip.  no funnels, no muss, no fuss, no runs, no drips, no errors.

k
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Jim Hardesty

I do same as Ken with a few exceptions.  Like Ken's idea with the marked fill bottle.  I used Gorilla Glue between the bulb and the siphon.  I put the syringe in a zip-loc bag and only use it for t-fluid.  Also I write on blue painters tape that the transmission is overfull and put that above the nav table along with a number of other reminders that I must do before launch.  Alternator belt loose, impeller out, seacock closed, etc. 
Hope the transmission service fixes the problem.
Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

Ron Hill

Guys : I filled my transmission to the top for the winter and sucked all of the fluid out in the spring.  One fall before I filled it to the top, I sucked all the fluid out into a bottle and marked it.   Then in the spring when I suck all the fluid out I refill it from the bottle level so I'm right on when I recheck it for a new season. 

Wrote that up in the Mainsheet tech notes - long ago

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

KWKloeber

Quote from: Ron Hill on July 22, 2017, 01:27:42 PM
Guys : I filled my transmission to the top for the winter and sucked all of the fluid out in the spring.  One fall before I filled it to the top, I sucked all the fluid out into a bottle and marked it.   Then in the spring when I suck all the fluid out I refill it from the bottle level so I'm right on when I recheck it for a new season. 

Wrote that up in the Mainsheet tech notes - long ago

A few thoughts

And I bet it was 0.3 liter every time.  What's the magic of looking up the fluid capacity in the manual?  Sheesh.
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

anaisdog

Bobg, should you be able to turn the prop by hand while in gear with engine off?  i'll test that.  and was leaving her in gear, when engine off, at sail.  bad becki
Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club