New to group, and looking at an 1988 wing keel

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Tad.beagley

Happy Friday All,

I'm looking at an 1988 tall rig with the wing keel in the northeast. I visited the boat last weekend, and I'm looking for a surveyor to do a survey when the boat gets hauled out in the next few weeks. I wanted to see if anyone had advice on what to look for? The one concern I have with the boat so far is the fact that it is stored in the water year round, and if there are any issues from blistering below the water line from this?

Hope this all works out, and I become a Catalina 34 owner in addition to a member of this group!!!!!

Tad Beagley

Stu Jackson

#1
Tad,

Take a look at the sticky topics.  They will explain how to look for stuff.

Here are a few highlights:

Archived FAQ:  Buying a C34:  http://www.c34.org/faq-pages/faq-c34-purchase.html

Critical Upgrades - look to see that these were done:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html

A QUICK START GUIDE FOR GETTING THE MOST OUT OF THIS WEBSITE AND YOUR BOAT
Learning Fast 101:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5260.0.html

I suggest reading Steve Lyle's First Year Weblog (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,663.0.html)  [This is embedded in reply #4 of the Critical Upgrades topic]  While not specific to your boat, it simply indicates what someone who had done his homework found anyway.  Do a search on "weblog" and read others, too.

Good luck, you almost can't go wrong.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

NewToTheRoad

Tad,
  Good luck. I purchased an '88 last September and have really been enjoying it.  A "good" surveyor should be able to assess all of the most major things.  Take Stu's advice though and do some research into old posts and stickys.  In my experience surveyors will tell you they know Catalinas but nowhere near the knowledge base of this site.  So, you've come to the right place and will be better prepared when you do your survey.  One area that my surveyor missed was the damage done from leaking under the stanchion just above the galley icebox.  In my case, years of leakage (and neglect) caused the galley countertop closest to the hull to be rotted out to where I will have to replace at some point.  While not a deal breaker it could have been a negotiating point.  My understanding is that these stanchions on both sides house vent tubes (from water and holding tanks) and are "known" issues relative to leaks.

Bryan
Lori & Bryan
1988 C34, M25XP, Std Rig, Fin Keel - Hull # 697
Portsmouth, RI

Noah

#3
As Stu said, read everything first. Then you might consider splitting the survey into two pieces--do the in-the-water portion now, to get it out of the way. Gives you more time to digest any issues.  And less destraction on haulout day. Then do the out-of-the-water afterwards.  Also, have an oil sample taken and analyzed, so you have an idea of internal engine health. FYI-blisters can be dealt with and are not necessarily a desl breaker.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Ron Hill

#4
Tad : Look at the Critical Updates as Stu mentioned. 
The most important one that MIGHT? impact you 1988 C34 is the "Wiring Harness Upgrade".

If you have an Ammeter in the Engine instrument panel  - that update is needed for sure!!
If you have a Voltmeter you need to look for the faulty trailer connector on the aft port side of the engine. (another connector is behind the engine instrument panel, but the one in the engine compartment is the easiest to spot)
It will look like a 1"-2" bundle about 6" long wrapped in black electrical tape.  If that's there, then change it out per the Critical Update Info.  It is a real FIRE Hazzard!!

Good Luck in you inspection and reading.  Welcome Aboard!!

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

Tad.beagley

Awesome information! The wiring on this boat was redone 2 years ago, and there is only 281 hours on the engine which is the original 25 hp diesel. There is a few cosmetic issues on the deck, but still feel like I'm getting a deal on this boat! Waiting the other shoe to drop still...

Noah

#6
Regardless of what is reported by seller; inspect closely. She may be the find of the century (I hope so) or...? Such low hrs on a 30 yr old engine could be a mixed blessing. Knowledgeable folks insist that diesel engines are meant to be run, not sit, and there could still be "age issues". New wiring is in the eye of the beholder. So check carefully and don't assume.  New doesn't necessarily mean "correct". Good luck! Fingers crossed. 8)
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

britinusa

281 hours on a 29 year old boat, that's about 10 hours a year. Less than 1 hour a month.

That's like a new engine!

Perhaps the boat has been kept at a dock where it was just a couple of minutes from a sailing ground, so nut much need to run the engine.

Just sayin.

Paul
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

britinusa

Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

Steve McGill

CLARITY 1988 #588 TRWK (sold 8/2023 after 17 yrs)
Chesapeake, Herring Bay, MD

Ron Hill

Tad : Your engine should be an M25XP 23hp engine.

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Tad.beagley

Couple specific questions I have about the improvements that would need to be made:
All the running rigging needs to be replaced; anyone done this recently and have an idea of what it costs?
The bimini is fine, but the dodger needs to be replaced. Is that just the canvas that needs to be replaced, and what does that typically cost?

Stu Jackson

#12
Quote from: Tad.beagley on June 17, 2017, 04:59:41 PM

1.  All the running rigging needs to be replaced; anyone done this recently and have an idea of what it costs?


2.  The bimini is fine, but the dodger needs to be replaced. Is that just the canvas that needs to be replaced, and what does that typically cost?

This stuff should be considered maintenance, not improvements.  That's the reality.   :D

1.  Many times when folks do this they also make upgrades, like, for example, raising the split on the backstay to avoid head knocks and maybe adding adjustable backstay gear.  I haven't done mine recently but I'd budget $2,000 to $2,500.  Others will chime in.

2.  You keep the frame.  Prices vary widely.  Look up local canvas makers in your area and get quotes.  A complete redo of my dodger was quoted $3,250 last year, but my glazing was fine and I found someone else who would do it differently for a lot less than redoing everything.  If everything on yours needs to be redone including the glazing, then that should be a good starting point.

Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

kh3412

Just installed new standing rigging and furler. 3500$
1987 mk1 a work in progress #618