1. If possible would you recall the spec's on the 110% sail on your C34? Tack pendant lenght, Luff lenght, and clew height, sail material, etc.
2. ...... and better handling at 20 knots or so. Why did you choose a 110%?
1. Chris, I don't have the measurements or weight of our 110% jib. It is a stock Catalina 34 in size and shape, but was made by a local SF sail maker, Leading Edge, not from CY or their Ullman loft. Back then the stock sails from Catalina were pretty poor, but they are quite good these days. We have a ProFurl LCI32 with the long link plates (see photo below). You can see the tack pendant I use, which is thin high strength line. I slacken the line before I furl the sail, which reduces the pull on the luff when the sail is furled and not being used. I don't use the jib halyard for that; I keep the halyard on the mast on a cleat, not run aft. I run the tack pendant through the tack grommet/cringle of the sail and the D shackle at the top of the drum, three times, which gives me a good purchase without using any blocks or further mechanical advantage. I've tried wire pendants and find they just don't work because they can't be adjusted. Others swear by them; they most likely use their halyards for that. Your boat, your choice.

The head of the jib is as far up as it will go, connected to the top swivel. The ProFurl has a built-in halyard restrainer, rather than needing one installed on the mast.
I would caution you about using the luff measurements from anyone else. STRONGLY. Given the different drum heights and top swivels of different vendors, the allowable luff lengths can vary by a foot or more. I say allowable, since there need to be connections at both top & bottom.
2. You answered your own question!

I sailed in SF until last summer. I used our 85% jib during the summer and our big 110% during lighter winter winds or when racing during the summer. The whole point of the jib size article (
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7704.0.html)was just that: a wider range of use with one sail without that much loss in light winds, and our boats sail exceptionally well in light air. Either a pole or an asymetrical for downwind sailing and you're done.
PS - Re the diagram below, which I've posted on other forums to explain LP [luff perpendicular]. If you cut your jib as a deck-sweeper AND with a low tack, and it is a 110, you will find your jib tracks do NOT run far enough forward. If you are considering a low foot 110, you MUST either be able to do the geometry yourself or get a sail maker to come to your boat. Our stock 110 has a non-deck-sweeper foot, and combined with the high tack (from the first picture) we still use the forward-most jib car point on the track.