Hot water heater/ fresh water pump

[Stu Jackson]

1...I also got some very brown water out of it when it was removed, did not feel comfortable with the odor that it had even after I flushed it a few times. 

2...The old water heater did not have an anode installed, I have read that having one installed will increase the lifetime of a unit by decreasing internal corrosion.  I ordered a magnesium anode with a built in drain, any experience or thoughts regarding that?

1.  One of the reasons we have been recommending that all skippers use the hot water faucets REGULARLY, even if there is no hot water, is to keep the water moving through the heater.  Get into that habit and you will avoid having the same water sitting in the heater for extended periods of time.  I'm right handed, so when I use the galley faucet I hold whatever I'm filling with my right hand and use my left hand to turn the hot water faucet.  Just a good habit to get into.

2.  The anode is ONLY required where there is a "bad" fresh water SOURCE. It is NOT for avoiding corrosion from salty seawater.  The Seaward manual, available on the web, indicate that the anodes are magnesium and are designed to deal with bad drinking water. They don't describe what that means.  FWIW, I have never had one on ours (two Seawards in 18 years).

[Jon W]

I second Stu's recommendation to run the hot water regularly. When I wasn't the water that sat for a while had a sulfur/rotten egg odor.

[Stu Jackson]

I second Stu's recommendation to run the hot water regularly. When I wasn't the water that sat for a while had a sulfur/rotten egg odor.

Fresh Water System Recommissioning 101 - Peggie Hall's "Cocktail" http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5836.0.html

from the "101 Topics"

[J_Sail]

The anode is there to prevent galvanic corrosion, just like the one in your home hot water heater or the zincs on a boat in fresh water. It is not for dealing with bad water. 

There is an issue, though, of an occasional interaction between a harmless aerobic bacteria, and tank anodes that can produce a foul rotten egg odor. If you get it the solution is to either kill the bacteria with a shot of hydrogen peroxide or bleach in the tank or to switch to an aluminum/zinc alloy anode. I do not recommend running a hot water heater without any anode.  Below is a link on the topic from a great site on extending the life of domestic hot water heaters by changing out the anode every 5 years or so. Most of what they say applies to marine hot water heaters as well.
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/Troubleshooting/stinky-water-in-hot-water-heaters.html
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/Longevity/water-heater-anodes.html

[Ekutney]

I bought a magnesium anode which also has a petcock on it to allow the WH to be drained.  I have looked online and have found an aluminum/zinc anode but none that have a drain capability. I'd rather not have to worry about the potetial of a rotten egg smell.  Is there any difference in the functionality of an anode using this type of material?

[Ekutney]

I am planning to mount my new water heater to a plywood platform that I am going to attach to two 1X1 rails that are going to be attached to the hull using West Marine thickened epoxy.  I have dry fitted the rails which are raised on the inboard side using another section of 1X1, this makes the top of the rail level.  I am a novice at this and would appreciate comments or suggestions because I am not sure if glassing the two ends to the hull will provide enough strength.  Configuration of the rails are shown in the attached pics. 

[Ekutney]

Another pic of the rails showing how one end is raised, do you think I should also put a block in the center or just use thickened epoxy and a strip of fiberglass mat?

[Ekutney]

Correction West System epoxy thickened with silica.

[KWKloeber]

Ed,

There's many ways to skin a cat but IIWMB I would have taken a 2x2 and rip it on an angle so the cleats sit level.  As far holding power, more is better than less -- IIWMWH I wouldn't rely on just 4 points.  I would also tab in the length of the cleats with fiberglass.

Make sure to epoxy any and all wood, even if it's treated. I used a pc of poly 1/4" thick cutting board from wallyworld to mount under my WH -- I wanted something permanent that water wouldn't attack. 

FWIW, I like Mas Epoxy over West - simpler/more forgiving 2 to 1 mix and no amine blush to deal with.  Mas has both a slightly heavier than West resin, and a penetrating resin.   I use West microfibers for "attaching" most everything -- it's mixes much easier than the fluffy, blow-away colloidal silica -- which is like trying to mix cotton into peanut butter.  And the microfibers has superior adhesive properties.

kk

[Ekutney]

Did you place the 1/4 " board directly on the hull?  Doesn't the WH sit on an angle?  What did you use to attach the board to the hull?

Good idea of ripping a 2X4 that would give me more contact area the length of the rail.  I plan to use thicken epoxy to attach the rails to the hull, thoughts?

[Ekutney]

I started another post with idea of changing the location of the Water Heater.  Another owner told me his Water Heater is located under the aft berth, I like the idea but wanted to get feedback from others, please look at this NEW topic and give your opinions.

[Dancrosswis]

Hi Ed,

This spring I moved my fresh water pump to the hull below the shelf it orginally resided upon.  I made up a small shelf and epoxied it (West and colloidal silica) to the hull.  The reduction in sound during operation surprised me.  It's a big improvement.  Here's a photo:




Dan
Ennui Went #159

[Dancrosswis]

Sorry, the photo is attached (I hope).

Dan

[Ekutney]

I see the screws at each corner of the shelf, is it mounted directly to the hull?  Did you bother to make it level?  I assume the noise is reduced because it is mounted on a very thick solid surface so any vibration is dissipated across the entire hull.

[Dancrosswis]

I raised the shelf off the hull about 1/2 inch on narrow boards under the left and right ends of the shelf. This provided clearance for the bolts connecting the pump to the shelf.  The spacer boards are epoxied to the hull. The shelf is screwed to the spacer boards. To make sure everything lined up, I screwed the shelf to the spacers, buttered up the spacer boards and then pressed the assembly to the hull.