Jib Furling Line Route

[KWKloeber]

Paul,
If you look at the picture near the drum, I have a block immediately after.  Then another block on the angled section of the bow pulpit.  After that, the line runs through a series of blocks on every stanchion.  The last block is on the double stanchion. From the double stanchion, I ran the line back to the aft pulpit to a ratchet block.  I rarely ever use a winch on the furling line (maybe once in 15 years).  The ratchet block holds the line while I reef in the Genoa.  I only trigger the ratchet switch in high winds.  Usually I set it with no ratchet.

The line makes a negative angle at the first block and is clearly running against the  clevis instead of the sheave.   something needs realigning or a stanchion block instead of the standing swivel block.

kk

[KWKloeber]

Paul, I believe your focus is misdirected. If things are working correctly at the drum and the subsequent lead  "downstream", your need for the winch will/should be eliminated. It should take mininal effort to active the furler line.

isolate the issue,  run the drum with the line just behind the forestay - if there's friction service the drum.

kk

[britinusa]

Step 1. I relocated the aft most block forwards to the next stanchion and on the inside.
It now has a much fairer lead to both the winch and to the cleat.

But didn't get to put the sails up this weekend :)

Paul

[Noah]

Paul- my drum is located very high off the deck (there are pluses and minuses to this, but that's a subject for another thread). Consequently, my first lead block is located high on the pushpit to maintain the proper 90 degree drum feed angle. The remaining leads are at the base of each stanchion going aft to a cleat on the outside of the cockpit combining, just aft of the starboard winch. BUT I DO NOT USE THE WINCH -- AND IMO YOU SHOULDN'T NEED T) EITHER.

[Noah]

I have a witness that it all works well, too!

[britinusa]

My furling line runs outside of the stanchions, shouldn't make that much difference.

BTW Shiny Boat Noah!

paul

[Noah]

Thanks. Just some wax and a lot of elbow grease!

[Ken Juul]

You need to isolate the problem.  Is it an issue with the line or an issue with the furler.  If the furler drum and upper swivel don't move freely suggest cleaning with a healthy dose of WD40 as you spin the drum and swivel followed by a though dousing of fresh water.  Of course the sail must be removed to clean the upper swivel.

[britinusa]

Thanks Ken, sounds like a good suggestion.

paul

[Roc]

Rather than WD-40, I would flush it with a high spray of water first.  Then put a dry lubricant, like McLube Sailkote.  I see they have a new product called OneDrop (never tried it).  You don't want to put something on the bearings which would attract dirt. 

http://www.mclubemarine.com/



 

[Ken Juul]

Also check your furler manual.  Some have built in cleaning ports.  Other is just spray as best you can.

[Paulus]

Some bearings if not stainless steel are affected by the chemicals in these lubricants.  A good water dousing works the best.  Roc's post is an interesting product.  Worth checking out. Sailkote works great on sail tracks.
Paulus

[Stu Jackson]

Also check your furler manual.  Some have built in cleaning ports.  Other is just spray as best you can.

And some, like our ProFurl, say NEVER get any lubricants anywhere near the swivel or drum.

RTFM   

[britinusa]

1st sail of 2016 and the furler worked great.

Seems that moving the aft most block forwards to the next stantion did the trick. I was able to furl the jib single handed without using the jib.

WoHooo!

paul