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[Paulus]

I know there was a topic on this subject.  Can't seem to find it.  I want to replace the casket.
Thanks,
Paul

[Stu Jackson]

The only one I recall is in the tech wiki, under engines, not a whole lot of detail on the oil pan removal and replacement.

http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Rebuilding_the_M25-XP

You could also do the Google search based on the sticky under "Searching Tips & Tricks."

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7570.0.html

[Paulus]

Oil pan has been removed and waiting for new caskets.
Paul

[Stu Jackson]

 new caskets.

Hmm, might be DOA?   

[Ron Hill]

Sometimes, working on boat engines can be deadly!!   

[Paulus]

I did loose a lot of blood.  Meant gaskets.
Paul

[Rick Allen]

Paul, are you replacing the oil pan while the engine is in place or did you have to raise it up? I didn't think it could be done while the engine was in place.
Enquiring minds want to know...

[Paulus]

I removed the oil pan to replace the gasket and also after 25yrs to check the build up in the oil pan.  Removing the oil pan (18 bolts) was slow but can be done without raising the engine, the 4 on the back side were difficult. Removing the old gasket was a challenge until I borrowed a special tool from the mechanic at Torresen.
I am having Torresen put in the new gasket and replace the oil pan.  Cannot afford to loose any more blood.  It did take me a whole day.
Paul

[Ron Volk]

Paul,

After removing the pan what did it look like after 25 years?

[Stu Jackson]

Paul, what tools did you use and have you learned any tips & tricks for doing this that would be helpful to others?  Do we need a "secret handshake" to learn about the tool from TOAD? 

[Paulus]

There was about 1/3 cup sludge in the pan.  The pickup for the oil pump was clean.  I do change my oil and filter every 50 hrs.
No special tools were needed.  I used a 10mm shallow walled deep socket with a 3" extension.  Easy to break loose and then removed my racket and turn the extension and socket by hand.  Lots of patience.  I used a 3/8 inch drive.  I did not have a thin walled deep socket for a 1/4 inch drive then I could have put a screw drive type of drive on to remove them after they came loose.  To put it back I will buy a 1/4 thin walled deep socket to put the bolts back in.  Should make it easier and faster to get the bolts started.  Hope to finish next week.
PS:  You do need thin arms.
Paul

[Paulus]

Finished   The old gasket was the most difficult part to remove.
Paul

[Stu Jackson]

Paul,

Congratulations.   

You have completed a major project.

Any chance you could do a Tech Note writeup for publication in Mainsheet magazine, and subsequent post to the Tech Notes Online?

That would really help us all.

[Ron Hill]

Paul : When you get the new oil pan (or your old oil pan) here's an idea:

Move the oil drain plug (drill a new hole) with it's tube to the rear of the pan (lowest point).  Then install a plug in the old hole.

You'll then be able to drain ALL of the old oil out of the pan during an oil change!!

A thought

[Paulus]

Ron, I did not replace the oil pan.  The next time I get the urge to see what has collected in the oil pan, I am going to do the following.  We always take the boat out after living aboard in the North Channel for 2-3 months.  When we get back, the oil is sucked out and a new filter is installed, before oil is added and the boat is in the sling to be put in dry dock, I am going to have Torresen raise the back end of the boat, put a pan under the engine and take out the drain plug.  I think this might be a faster and easier solution. 
Paul