Head Counter Top Replacement

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Jim Brener

I am in the process of replacing the counter top in the head.  When completed, I will post this project.  The  need to replace the counter top was water that came under the counter top and the solid shelf the counter top sits on and over time saturated the top.  I need to find the entry point of the water before installing the new top.  Facing the medicine cabinet, water is found in the outer right corner and maybe the outer left corner.  The jib track screws are dry as well as the scupper and stanchion bolts that can be seen looking inside the medicine cabinet and up toward the top.  The wet locker is dry.  The head window is tight and as far as I can determine, the port lights do not leak . I am at a loss as to where the water comes in. The head compartment mold sits away from the hull as far as I can tell and one would think water would run to the bilge.  I do have water entry at the holding tank vent stanchion which I am going to try for the third time to fix but that water drops to the sliding door shelf above the nav station I am at a loss and any suggestions will be appreciated. 
Jim Brener
Wind Spirit  1987  #504

chuck53

I do have water entry at the holding tank vent stanchion which I am going to try for the third time to fix but that water drops to the sliding door shelf above the nav station I am at a loss and any suggestions will be appreciated

I have the exact same problem and would love to get some feedback as well.

Jim Brener

I have used Bed-it butly tape as well as a SS backing plate.  I thought it was coming in at the outer forward bolt..  Wood felt wet, drilled it out, filled it with thickened epoxy and drilled a new hole, used the butyl tape and it still leaked.  When I try again, I will see if there could be a opening in the deck not related to the bolts  especially if the butyl looks intact.
Jim Brener
Wind Spirit  1987  #504

Dave Spencer

#3
I had the same problem.  (leak at the vented stanchion, I did not have a leak in the head medicine cabinet.)  The fix described here has worked well for me for several seasons so far.  
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7327.0.html
The key for me was to pull the entire vented stanchion out and see how badly the base plate was warped - likely due to years of well meaning dockhands using the stanchion to fend off a 6 1/2+ ton boat.  The warped section was against the toerail and not too obvious unless you are specifically looking for it until you pull the stanchion out.  There is a massive leak path between the toerail and the stanchion plate that can only be sealed by pulling the stanchion and rebedding the base, not just sealing with Butyl or other sealant around the bolts or the outside of the stanchion plate.

Good luck killing your leak!
Dave Spencer
C34 #1279  "Good Idea"
Mk 1.5, Std Rig, Wing Keel, M35A Engine
Boat - Midland, Ontario (formerly Lion's Head)
People - London, Ontario

crieders

I had to replace the stanchion, the gate stanchion, thanks to damaging it
I put in the new one and now have a lead in the rear compartment, coming in around the screws. I did something badly and have to re bed it now
On the port side some brown stuff coming in near bulkhead. Looks like a re bed job there too
Cliff Rieders, c34 tall rig, 1990, hull #1022

ghersche12

I purchased GYPSea and found the head counter rotted. Traced the leak back to the vented stanchion. Yep, it went from there along the fiberglass lip to the bulkhead then down to the counter in the head. As a result the counter above the nav station also had rotted and needed to be replaced...

RV61

Another source of that leak that can be is the traveler. Where the traveler bolts on the top of the boxes. These boxes are hallow and if they leak the water the migrates thru cabin top down cabin sides then down to deck past vented stanchion. I thought my problem was vented stanchion until I re bed it and still had a leak from interior bolt.    Best way to check is use moisture meter around cabin top traveler box area. If you deck stepped mast you may also want to check around mast plate for moisture. If wet step mast and re bed mast plate water leaks can migrate in strange paths and often the source is not the obvious.     

Rick V
Interlude
1986 Hull #237
Lake Erie

Jim Brener

If you are a member of the C34IA and receive the Mainsheet, you will see an article I wrote on replacing he head countertop.  If  not a member, join.
Jim Brener
Wind Spirit  1987  #504

mark_53

Leaks can be from many places due to weather or handling. Nothing will stand up to the constant march of the elements to return to their natural state. A good boat cover will slow the march considerably.