Leaky Head #2

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Aaron Gregg

Thanks for the feedback. On the same note, if I dont leave the black switch to the right on top of the head pump, (with the thru hull open) my head will constantly fill with sea water. There is an anti-siphon but it doesnt work very well. Is there another valve that could have gone south? I am replacing the whole set up, but I just bought the boat in December and any background is greatly appreciated.

mike baker

Aaron,

If you now have the Jabsco toilet and are planning on replacing it, you might consider installing a Raritan II "Large Household Size".  I did this last summer and it is great.  The fit was perfect.  I even gained more room in the head by moving the new toilet farther towards the hull than the original one had been.  The larger size makes the seat higher (more like at home), but definately is not too big for the space available.

If I'm not mistaken, "Practical Sailer" ranked the Raritan II best of all the commonly used toilets.  In my opinion, the Raritan is worlds better than the Jabsco.

Stu Jackson

Aaron

You note: There is an anti-siphon but it doesnt work very well.

Question is where the antisiphon is located.  We have one on the outlet but there is not one on the inlet between the thru hull and head, so we have to make sure to leave the valve on the head in a closed (flush) position (assuming we leave the thru hull open).  

We have a Wilcox-Crittendon Head Mate, and with the valve on the head in the correct closed  position, we can leave the thru hull open and have had not problems.  I've heard stories of folks who have left the valve in the wrong position while anchored overnight (i.e., not sailing) and woke up to find water all over the place.

Also, antisiphon valves should be easy to clear, they sometimes get locked up because of the same stuff that comes into the head, seawater, etc.  If you can't clear the anitsiphon by taking it off and servicing the top part, they are relatively inexpensive to replace.

If you're replacing the head anyway, while you're at it you can get a new longer length of intake hose from the thru hull to the head and put a new antisiphon on it.  Just loop it up high enough to make sure it's above the waterline.

Stu
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

calewis

Why worry about sea water to the head. We were tired of the smell of water that turned rank while sitting in the water line between the through hull and the head. I have installed a Y valve in the raw water line and hooked my head to the rear water tank. The water arriving at the head has no oder, nor does the holding tank. Installed 2 backflow preventers, 1 spring loaded. When was the last time you went through all of your fresh water while on a trip? When on an extended trip I just turn the Y valve and get the head water from the sea.

Chris Lewisa

Bill

Chris

If I understand you correctly you use water from one of your fresh water tanks to flush your head.  You also have a valve that allows you to drink water from the same tank that you use to flush the head.  Further you are relying on two back flow preventers to keep contamination from the head from reaching your fresh water tank.  One of those is spring loaded.  I assume these are common check valves and not backflow protection devices which are expenseve and require annual service and inspection by a certified backflow assembly tester.  If all this is true - that is BAD :eek: Very Bad.

I own and operate a small water company for a living and what you have done is set up a cross connection that could easily contaminate your fresh water.  This type of connectinon is not allowed in any type of public water system in the United States and probably the world.  I would rethink this connection.  You WILL someday suck up stuff from the head into the water tank and then you will drink it.  Yuck :eek:

Bill Jenks
2000  #1484
Unzipped

JIM BRENER 1987 #504 "WI

I have been considering plumbing the water to the head into the water coming from the tanks but have not done so because of the possibility of back up.
Meanwhile, we keep a small bucket of water in the head and pour as much water as necesary into the head before and after using.  It seems like an easy way to solve the problem with a little inconvience. When we leave the boat we are sure to use enough water to flush the lines.

calewis

For water to backflow back into the fresh water system the head would have to (1) be filled to point of overflowing, (2) the valve in the head itself would have to be malfunctioning, (3 & 4) two anti-sifen valves would have to be malfunctioning. All at the same time. To Avoid the look on crew and passengers faces upon the first person using the head on the day out. It is worth it. I have not even had an odor from the vent on the holding tank while flushing sinse installing fresh water.

If you have an electric flushing head, you can connect to your preasurized system. Use a sprinkler control valve with built in backflow protector. About $12.00. You would use 2 switches. One lets water into the head, the other drains the head. I know quite a few people that have hooked up the fresh water system to the head. None have regreted it.

Chris Lewiss

Roc

I re-plumbed my head intake to the head sink drain hose with a 'TEE'.  To flush with fresh water, I close the drain seacock and simply fill the sink with water.  When the head is pumped, it draws fresh water from the sink.  If I want to flush with sea water, open the seacock and put the sink strainer plug in.  Now the head will draw water from the seacock.  This is simple, only the cost of a nylon 'TEE' and a few extra hose clamps. What's nice about this is the original seacock used for the head intake is now used for the water intake for my air conditioning system.  I didn't have to cut another hole in my boat for my air conditioning.

Roc-
Roc - "Sea Life" 2000 MKII #1477.  Annapolis, MD

Norris Johnson

I do what Ron does. I use the shower nozzle while I am at the dock. Much cleaner and safer. At the dock, I'm also tied to city water.
Norris Johnson
#1408 Mariposa
Paisano
Catalina 36 MkII 95
Hitchcock, Texas

Roc

is that you don't purge the sea water inside the bowl.  That's where the critters die and stink.  By introducing fresh water into the inlet hose, all the sea water is purged out of the bowl.

Roc-
Roc - "Sea Life" 2000 MKII #1477.  Annapolis, MD

Paul

I have a 1987. Was an anti-siphon valve included as original equipement as I don't find any?  

I have the problem of the bowl filling with sea water if the toilet valve is in the "wet" position, it fills with waste if left in the "dry" position.  Do I need one or more anti-siphon valves or is there something wrong with the head and pump itself?

Paul

Roc

Paul,
Sounds like you need to rebuild your head.  The joker valve is probably worn and letting holding tank waste to back up in the head. You can get the kit from WM.  However, if your head needs more than a rebuild kit (about $40), you might want to think about getting a whole new head.  You can get them on sale for about $100.

Roc-
Roc - "Sea Life" 2000 MKII #1477.  Annapolis, MD

Mark Wey

Paul Roc is right. While you are at it. Now would be a good time to change the hoses as well. After years of use they can be a source of odour as well.

Mark
Mark Wey
2004 C-36