HX Location

[Phil Spicer]

   Just finished filling the transmission for the winter. What a pain getting to the dip stick to fill. The bracket and HX are in the way. Has anyone relocated the HX? I removed the bracket and plan to make it about 2" longer so the HX will clear the dip stick. May cut a small radius in the port side to help clear a socket and bend the bracket down 5 or 10 degrees to be sure to clear the exhaust riser. Any thoughts? Any warnings? 

[MitchMan406]

I bought a 3" SeaKamp Heat Exchanger for my C36, but it was a nightmare to fit in the same location of the previously installed 2" Heat Exchanger, which was located on top of the transmission - so I mounted it a couple of feet aft.

I'll include a pic of it mounted on the box for the fresh water tank. It worked out pretty well. No know issues.

Might even run a little cooler due to the relocation away from the engine.

This was a modification on a C36 however - not sure about your application.
Where there's a will, there's a way though!

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[KWKloeber]

   Just finished filling the transmission for the winter. What a pain getting to the dip stick to fill. The bracket and HX are in the way. Has anyone relocated the HX? I removed the bracket and plan to make it about 2" longer so the HX will clear the dip stick. May cut a small radius in the port side to help clear a socket and bend the bracket down 5 or 10 degrees to be sure to clear the exhaust riser. Any thoughts? Any warnings? 

Phil, yes have thoughts/fix.  First, is this on an XP?

Ken K

[Phil Spicer]

   Ken, Yes, I have a M25XP. The HX is over the Trans, mounting bracket is on the back of the engine/flexplate housing. Started out to try to keep it simple by just welding some length to the mounting bracket.
   Mitch, wish I had the space you have and the box to mount the bracket. Good solution. I'll check into relocation options...when the temp goes back up after this Artic blast moves out. Changed the shifter shaft seal and filled trans on Monday, 64 degrees. Fireplace blazing today, 30 degrees...staying home.
   Ron, thanks for your nice write-up in the Tech Notes on changing that shifter shaft seal. Made the job quick and easy. I put off changing it last summer since the operating level is below the seal level. Never lost a drop all season.


   

[KWKloeber]

Phil,

I have the M25, but it doesn't matter, the Hx/dip stick is in the same place.  I had the 2" Hx and with that had no problem. When I switched to the 3" -- I ordered the a new bracket, which didn't even fit anywhere on the beast.  I threw that way and just opened up the radius of my old 2" bracket and reused it.  However, had the same issue with the D/S.

So, all I did was "insert" a little dimple in the Hx so the D/S can pass by.  it doesn't go straight up, but does go in at an angle then then work it's way down.  About a quarter size and 1/4" deep at the max (bal pein hammer).  no effect on cooling ability.

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Also, I supplied an XP owner with the Westerbeke water-cooled riser for his XP etc, a new muffler, new Hx, bla bla bla. 
The new riser and the Hx interfere somewhat, but we decided to leave it on the engine rather than mount it offsite.  He made an offset bracket to drop the Hx lower to avoid the riser, and back to allow access to his D/S. 

The new Hx "C brackets" are bolted to the offset bracket.

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Aside: 

With the Hx location it's a PITA to fill and not have fluid end up wherever.  When I was up north I drained and filled the tranny to the brim each lay up, then in spring sucked it down to the full level.  What I devised is a pointy-top lab squeeze bottle, with a hose (6"?) on the pointy tip.  I just filled the bottle and tipped it up/squeezed until the gear case was full. 

For spring, I took a battery filler bulb, and put a zip-tie on the plastic spout at the correct depth for "Full" on the D/S.  I just sucked the fluid down to the correct level -- not having to keep sucking and checking D/S level until I got it right.

Now, I have the squeeze bottle marked at the "Full" capacity on the D/S (0.3L of fluid I recall).  So now fill it with just what I need to bring it up to "Full" -- and no muss no fuss.  Harbor Freight has similar bottles, though not "lab quality."

Ken K

[Phil Spicer]

   Thank you Ken.  That is about what I was planning to do, extend back & drop down a little to clear the riser. Can't go down too far or I will hit the bracket that holds the shifter cable. Great pictures, thanks for the suggestions. Think I will make up a bracket like you show and use slots for the bolts so everything can be adjusted up & down & fore & aft. If one doesn't work I will have a second shot at screwing things up. A little CAD work tonight to get some workable dimensions & off to the weld shop tomorrow.