Door in V-Berth

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Brad Young

I have ordered a teak louvered door 12in x 12in. I am going to place it for easier access to the storage under the V-Breth.  I will need to cut a hole in the V-Berth.

What type of blade should I use? I plan on cutting it with jig saw. Any ideas on how to cut, I am afraid the plastic will start vibrate and maybe split.  I do not what to mess this up. Any thoughts or suggestion would be greatly appreciate.

Thanks
Brad

Brad Young
Boat
Year 1986
Model C34
Hull# 84

Stu Jackson

#1
Brad,

Some tricks:

1.  Measure twice, cut once, BTDT

2.  Draw the lines on the fiberglass before you cut anything

3.  Make sure it's either level or works visually

4.  Cut the first holes with a drill in each corner, to avoid nicking the fiberglass on the face, run the drill backwards at first; for example, for the upper right corner, the upper right curve of the drill hole should allow you to get the saw in line with the cut both to the left for the top cut and down for the vertical cut

5.  Make these first drill holes big enough to put a saw into; your saw, your decision on the size of the drill

6.  Cut the rest of the straight edges of the holes with a saw, sometimes a hack saw works better than a wood saw

7.  Some either tape or C clamp a piece of wood to the fiberglass to get a straight cut, but the door frame usually covers any "un-straight" cuts   8)

8.  Consider using bolts with backing washers and nuts in lieu of sheetmetal screws to hold the door frame; take a look at your door to the water heater --- it's sheetmetal screws and works;  Your boat, your choice

9.  Use finishing washers or teak bungs ---  I never minded the screws showing, makes it easier to do

10.  Sit back and enjoy the beer.  :D   :clap

Good luck.

You have seen the wiki and other pictures of the finished product before, right?
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

lazybone

Check behind the panel for wires/hoses before you cut.
Buy quality blades, they cost more but last longer.
Ciao tutti


S/V LAZYBONES  #677

Steve W10

When I did my microwave surround I just used screws and washers from the back side so I didn't have to muck about with plugs.  Just be sure the screws aren't too long.  Doesn't work in all applications (galley drawer frames are inaccessible on the outboard side) but where it does work I'd do it every time.

Steve

Noah

#4
I treat drilling gel coat the same as drilling acrylic or Lexan that are prone to cracking. I file off the sharp hook tip on the cutting tip edge of the drill bit and let the bit "burn" through the material rather than bite. Less chipping/ cracking. I would also tape the material first, mark your line,  and cut through the tape. Helps prevent chipping. Maybe not an issue if you have a flange/trim/moulding to cover cut. Also, Use a finer tooth blade in your saw.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

KWKloeber

A rotary cutter  (eg  rotozip) works very well and doesn't chip.  It works best if you can use it against a straight edge.

ken k

Quote from: Brad Young on May 10, 2014, 04:24:52 PM
I have ordered a teak louvered door 12in x 12in. I am going to place it for easier access to the storage under the V-Breth.  I will need to cut a hole in the V-Berth.

What type of blade should I use? I plan on cutting it with jig saw. Any ideas on how to cut, I am afraid the plastic will start vibrate and maybe split.  I do not what to mess this up. Any thoughts or suggestion would be greatly appreciate.

Thanks
Brad


Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Steve W10

I'd second the rotary tool.

Oh, and in that case you may want to be prepared for some serious dust, a shop vac while doing it certainly helps.

Phil Spicer

  If you can, put a shop vac filter bag in your shop vac. One for plaster dust. Tape a plastic bag, trash bag etc. behind your cutting area to collect anything that would fall behind the cutting area that the vac doesn't get. Really helps with clean up.
   The corners do not need to be square, a little round from the drill is ok.
   You may also want to think about a carbide blade, one that looks like it has sand glued on it. The glass can wear the teeth off a steel blade in a 6" or 8" cut.
   Put on a dust mask, plus eye and ear protection. 
Phil & Marsha,Sandusky Sailing Club. Steamboat is #789,tall/wing-Unv M25XP/Hurth ZF 50 trans.

Ron Hill

Brad : If you look in WiKi you are going to see that I installed 2 of those doors - one on either side. 
Ron, Apache #788

Momentum

Brad, if you're using a jig saw, they sell blades with teeth that cuts as it goes in as oppose to comming out.  They sell these blades to to cut particule board / melamine.  It's always good to tape the desire opening over a masking tape...your marks are easier to follow (if you mark ON the tape) and also prevent as such as possible the chipping.
Good luck
Serge

Stu Jackson

#10
Wow, folks actually have POWERED tools on their boats?  I have a 1500 watt inverter and I still use a hacksaw.

Mostly to get out of the anchorage...  :abd:
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

#11
Guys : For the clean cut and not "chunk" out the surface use a down stroke cutting saber/scroll saw blade. They are hard to find, but Milwaukee Co. makes then.  

Also make sure that you have a variable speed saw. If the blade goes too fast thru plastic/fiberglass it tends to melt and not cut the material.

A thought
Ron, Apache #788