Help... anchor rode tie off?

[Jeff Tancock]

I had a new anchor roller installed due to insurance claim (not my fault). Now that I have looked at it I realize that the new anchor roller makes my centre cleat unusable to tie off the anchor rode with getting chewed up on it's sharp edge. Any ideas for a new strategy? Cleat in the anchor locker? Some sort of fairlead to route around the roller's edge and back to the cleat? Any thoughts appreciated....

[Ron Hill]

Jeff : Haven't seen but guessing at the picture, you can do what I did and use a Dermal Tool and grind off the inside lip.  A thought

[scotty]

Do you have bow cleats on the port and starbord?  If not, they are fairly easy to put on, and reallly come in handy.  I put on 8" cleats and they worked for docking and for anchoring.  By the way, nice big backing plates are a must!

[Fuzzy]

Jeff:  I did the same thing as Scotty.  I added a bow cleat on the port side and one on the starboard side.  Much better for
dock lines.  I removed the original deck cleat to make room for the new anchor roller.
Larry

[Jeff Tancock]

I have been planning on putting on a pair of bow cleats but didn't think that they would be great for anchoring. My roller shank comes back so that it  stops 4" short of the slope into the anchor locker.
Ron I like your idea of taking off the inside lip of the roller shank but had wondered if that would weaken the roller. How hard was it to dremmel that lip off? I've never cut or ground stainless.....

[Ron Hill]

Jeff : Taking off the inside lip back far enough to use the cleat will not weaken it. I was surprised how easy it was when I did it!

I also have 2 side 8" Schaefer cleats, but still like the anchor line on the center cleat!   A thought

[Jeff Tancock]

Thanks Ron...that may be the most sensible solution. Can't believe that it would be really easy though...grinding stainless, rough edges etc...

[Ted Pounds]

You'd be surprised what a Dremel tool can do...   

[Ron Hill]

Jeff : If you look in WiKi , Projects, Tech notes on my Windless installation you can get a look at my bow roller with the inside lip cut down. 

[Stu Jackson]

Jeff, the Knowledgebase says it's Feb. 2006

Unfortunately, I just tried it and it comes up blank, sorry.

[Jeff Tancock]

I like that idea, but I'm also considering installing a small cleat, chock or something immediately aft of and butted up to the roller shank. This would allow me to pull the line straight back, turn and go forward to the large centre cleat. Not sure if there is room though...only 4" of deck before the slope into the anchor locker.

[Ron Hill]

Jeff : Go back in your old printed Mainsheet tech notes and look at the pictures.
It's easy to do and makes a clean straight forward bow roller.

[Jeff Tancock]

Thanks Ron, I did look in the tech wiki at yours and the other windlass installs. It's not that easy to see but enough to give me the idea. It's just that I have never cut stainless or used a dremmel before. I also want to install bow cleats. I just have to work up to it. I'm always reluctant to get into these types of projects, then when I'm done I wonder what the big deal was!
Thanks again for your thoughts.

[Ron Hill]

Jeff : You can go to Harbor Freight and buy a 4" high speed grinder (10000rpm) for about $25 and it will go thru stainless like butter!! 

Another thought