Engine not turning over

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Set2sea

If a M25 (1986) is a Kubota B7000, what Kubota # is a M25-XP?
Paul Barrett
S/V BuddyB
Salem, ma

Les Luzar

Set2,
The M25XP is a Kubota D950 Engine used on the B7200 Kubota Tractor.
Les Luzar
#355    1987
Windshadow
Long Beach, CA

Ron Hill

Guys : For the M25XP, I also found that sometime the B7200 tractor was incorrect, but the B7100 tractor worked.  You need to look at the schematic of each!!

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Clay Greene

My humble suggestion is to add the solenoid first and see if it fixes the problem.  It made a big difference for us and we have the same engine.  Plus, it is relatively easy to do.  The glow plugs may be fine.  You did not mention the temperature when you were trying to start the engine - colder temperatures will definitely require more glow plug time. 
1989, Hull #873, "Serendipity," M25XP, Milwaukee, Wisconsin

mregan

The temp was in the 60's.  I ordered both the glow plugs and solenoid.  I'll try the solenoid first and see how that works

mregan

I was looking through the Universal M25 manual.  During the start-up procedure it says turn key, hold glowplug button for 30-60 sec then press starter button.  Hold glowplug and starter button at same time when starting.  Is this the way it should be done? I've been holding the glowplug button, release, then push the starter button.  Does it make a difference?

Stu Jackson

Yes, it does.  The book is wrong.  No need to have both major amperage draws on at the same time.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

mre : As Stu said, you don't need to keep the glow plug button IN when you push IN the starter.  The glow plugs are already heated and you what all the amps available to turn over the starter. 
Ron, Apache #788

Jim Hardesty

I'd like to add something that I'm not sure is true but is in my memory from someone who I can't recall. 
Don't have the battery charger on when starting the engine.  I was told that the extra couple of volts would cause premature failure of the glow plugs and the starter.  Is this a fact or a myth?
Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

tonywright

According to a retailer of Etecno glow plugs for Kubota engines: the most comon cause of failure of glow plugs is over-voltage. This would suggest it is a good idea to disconnect the charger, (pretty sure I've seen someone post that here as well).  Another good reason to disconnect it is to help ensure you don't motor away from the dock with the power cord still attached! Yep, seen that done (charterers!).

Tony
Tony Wright
#1657 2003 34 MKII  "Vagabond"
Nepean Sailing Club, Ottawa, Canada

Les Luzar

I guess I will have to change my starting procedure. I have always started my engine with the power cord attached and then as the engine was warming up for a few minutes, I would unplug the shorepower cord, then throw off the dock lines....After seven years, does not seem to be a problem. But I certainly want to prolong the life of my glow-plugs!
Les Luzar
#355    1987
Windshadow
Long Beach, CA

Indian Falls

I'm not debating anything, just looking at all this with some skepticism.

Over voltage from what though?  How would 1.0  to 1.5 volts more from a charger bother the glow plugs?
I just read that most common failure was leaving them on too long, as in over 5 minutes with the engine running.

Three glo plugs at about 15 ohms each would 5 ohms at 12 volts is 2.4 amps, not much,  5 ohms at 13.5v is 2.7 amps charger on..  300ma over three plugs or an additional 100ma per plug for about 10 seconds .. I'm not buying it.  Maybe it's the folks who hold for 45 seconds or more with charger voltage?

I have started my engine with the charger on many times and pretty sure it's always been in float except for the first time this season, it was in bulk charge mode.  Never hurt anything that I know of.  I guess I'm lucky or it doesn't matter.

Also I hold the glo plugs on until it's running about a second or two.  Total time on for glo would be 10-12 seconds, or count of 10-12.

I don't see that it's necessary to let go - then start, its less than 5 amps right?   unless you have a depleted battery and you are worried won't start the engine with both loads going. If the batteries are up there's over 1400 cranking amps available.  

Is there another reason to let off the glo for cranking?

Dan & Dar
s/v Resolution, 1990 C34 997
We have enough youth: how about a fountain of "smart"?

Mick Laver

There's a couple of threads here, but in response to the shore power or not starting issue: We always start with shore power (charger) off, shore power cable disconnected for good measure. If our batteries are shot and not holding a charge we'd like to know that BEFORE leaving the dock.
Mick and Sherrie Laver
CINNAMON
1999 C34 Mk II #1432
San Diego, CA

Paulus

Check your ground wire from the engine control panel especially at the connectors.  This gave me similar problems a couples  back.  Engine on occasion would not start.
Paul
Cool Change 1989 #944

Ron Hill

Jim : If you look in your M35BC engine Manual on page 21 there is a WARNING : Not to engage the glow plugs for more than 30 seconds!!!  These are different glow plugs than the M25XP glow plugs!!

Guys : I'm not too sure if you get "extra" voltage to the glow plugs if you have the shore charger ON or not?  However I don't believe that it wise to start the engine with the shore AC charge ON as there is a dueling between the alternator and shore charger to charge the batteries. I just don't do both at the same time.  My thoughts
Ron, Apache #788