Orange sludge in engine coolant manifold

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Set2sea

After just taking possesion of my 1988 Cat 34 last week, I am starting to go through the engine (M-25XP). The boat has been on the hard for the past three years.
Taking off the coolant cap there is no coolant in the reservoir (Not sure if this is what you call this part of the engine where the radiator cap is mounted?). What is present is a good amount of orange sludge inside the "reservoir". Is there a way to flush this out without circulating this thru the whole engine? I guess I am asking if there is a way to try to clean it without running the engine for the thought of spreading the sludge in other parts of system. Or do I have to run the engine and go thru a couple of flush cycles?
Then of course I have to fine the source of the leak.
I guess another question, should I plan on removing HX, check end seals/gaskets and sent out for cleaning and pressure testing?
Paul Barrett
S/V BuddyB
Salem, ma

Ron Hill

Set2 : It's immediately apparent that your engine does not have a coolant recovery system (written up many many times).  The orange sludge is RUST!  The rust inhibitor in your "Prestone" coolant usually only lasts about 1/2 years.
You don't get rust with a coolant recovery system because you purge all the air out of that closed system.

I'd guess that the best way to purge your system is with some "Prestone" radiator flush.  Follow the instructions and then after the final drain, add the 50% Prestone/water mix.

Then go to WiKi/projects/Mainsheet tech notes and see how I used a 1 gt. Rubbermade bottle and made my own coolant recovery system (1989).  Great info in those Mainsheet tech notes!!

A few thoughts

Ron, Apache #788

Stu Jackson

Whenever you mess with your fresh water coolant, you'll need to BURP your engine.

Here's how:  Engine Overheating 101 - How to Burp Your Engine (Reply #6)  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4518.msg26462.html#msg26462

I suggest you read both the 101 Topics and the Critical Upgrades on your new-to-you engine.

Good luck.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Stu Jackson

You may have to describe the orange sludge a bit more.  As Ron said, it could be rust.  It also could be another type of coolant that is orange, which does NOT mix well with the standard green coolant most of us use.  I use the non-toxic brand of coolant, it's more expensive but "greener."  You will need to make sure you get rid of all the orange stuff, rust or sludge, before you insert new coolant, and Ron's idea of a flush is a good one.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ed Shankle

If there is truly sludge in there, I'd be reluctant to run that through the system too; maybe you can add the Prestone flush to the reservoir, let it soak, then drain out from the lower hose. May take more than 1 soak. Then do a final rinse with just water.
Regarding the HX, never hurts to do what you suggest, they can crude up in a couple of seasons, but first maybe just inspect it. Take the end caps off and shine a light in there.
Where are you in Salem? I'm at Hawthorne Cove Marina. There are a few C34's in the harbor.
Good luck,
Ed
Ed Shankle
Tail Wind #866 1989 m25xp
Salem, MA

Kevin Henderson

#5
Set 2,

Listen to all the advice the previous posters mentioned.
You indicated that your boat has been on the hard for 3 years.  You have not mentioned if it is still on blocks or if it's now in the water.
Please do not start the engine on the hard unless you have followed some of the instructions given here about getting fresh water to cool the engine.  Also do NOT  engage the transmission while out of the water. 

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7418.0.html
The sail, the play of its pulse so like our own lives: so thin and yet so full of life, so noiseless when it labors hardest, so noisy and impatient when least effective.
~Henry David Thoreau

Stu Jackson

You could be "creative" with hosing to run a flush through without starting the engine, but do not forget that there is a long loop of hose going to the hot water heater under the galley sink.  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3769.0.html  That's part of the entire fresh water coolant system.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Set2sea

Thanks all for the info. I think I will try the Prestone flush without running the engine first and see what comes out. Prestone does recommend running the engine. So after I do it w/o running I will do it again with engine running. This will give me some good practice burping the engine. I have read up on that and have copied notes on a few methods. I will share how it goes. And I know about keeping her in Nuetral.
I did see the post on the coolant recovery system. I agree that the sludge is rust and I believe that this built up over the last three (or more) years because all the coolant leaked out (of course I will have to find the leak). One of the raw water hoses was shot but I don't see how that would have lead to coolant leak.
Ed, I am in Salem Willows Yacht Club and I live in the Willows. Perhaps we can meet up at some point.
Paul Barrett
S/V BuddyB
Salem, ma

Ron Hill

Set2 : When the long life orange "Prestone" mixes with the greenish "Prestone" it does not leave an orange residue.  You have rust!

The rust is coming from two places in your engine - the cast iron coolant reservoir and the cast iron water jacket inside the engine block.  To circulate the flush thru the entire block you MUST run the engine.  If you pour the flush into the reservoir it will stay there and might circulate thru engine by capillary action in a month or so!!
What you can do is to remove the IN and OUT hoses (going to the water heater) from the water pump and take a small piece of 3/8" attach one to the IN and another to the OUT and you'll have a closed loop to run the flush thru.  Then when you get the "iron" out of your engine system, reconnect the hoses to the water heater and then worry about the "burp".

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

Set2sea

Ron,
Tottally agree with your last comment and like that plan. I was thinking that any flushing liquid just sitting in the reservoir would do little. I agree that it needs to be cycling thru the engine. That is what Prestone says. It will be a while before Iron Genny will be ready to run. I am removing fuel tank and HX next for cleaning and inspection. I love how accessible everything is on these boats. Not so in my last boat. I had to stand on my head to reach the stuffing box.
Thanks again
Paul
Paul Barrett
S/V BuddyB
Salem, ma

lazybone

Just recently worked on a car engine with the same symptoms, orange goop.
Turned out to be caused by a combination of Dex-cool Orange antifreeze and a slightly blown head gasket.
What a mess.
Ciao tutti


S/V LAZYBONES  #677