Re-installing sole

[mregan]

Sanded and re-finished the teak/holly sole this winter.  Should be re-installing in a few weeks.  Does it need to be screwed down or can I just lay the panels in their spots.  When I pulled them, the PO didn't have any of them screwed in.

[waterdog]

Hmmm.  Probably the only time you would ever notice a difference is if something really bad happpened - a knockdown or the like.  And it is precisely that moment you wouldn't want to be fighting with random loose bits of plywood.  So definitely screw them down.   

[TonyP]

Except for the 4 on the centre line. (3 in saloon for bilge access and small one in v-berth for depth and speed logs)

[Ron Hill]

mre : Screw down the T&H sole floorboards!!  You surely don't want anything inside your boat to be  loose like floorboards.  Rough seas can turn things upside down!!

I used the same screws from the factory (I'll guess #6 oval or flat head) and used finishing washers.
A thought

[Mike and Joanne Stimmler]

I think it would also keep the squeaking nioses down when you walk on them.

Mike

[ghebbns]

I'm curious what you refinished them with.  This project is on my list so any other advice you might have would be greatly appreciated.

Greg

[Stephen Butler]

Screw down everything!   We have been caught out in some lumpy conditions and found a few of our sole panels were not screwed down by the po......and came adrift.  Not a good situation.  Like Ron's idea of adding some finishing washers and will be adding these if ever we get back to the boat and off the hard.

[cmainprize]

Go back into the tech notes and check out the washers someone used to install their floor boards.  They were from an aircraft supply company and looked great.  When my floor comes up this is how it will go back in.  A little extra work, but the results are way better then the factory setup and the screws don't stick out like a regular finishing washer.  I would send you the link but I can't remember my password for the tech notes.

[patrice]

Hi,
Why would you need washer ?
Would it make the screw protrude from the floor.
Mine are all screwed with flat head screws, the heads are flush with board.

[Ron Hill]

Patrice : Most of the T&H soles that I've seen, have been screwed in with a electric drill.
 
That means the screws are in too far and have penetrated about 1/2 of the sole board.  The finishing washer allows you to screw the screw back into the top of the board, have the screw hold and the finishing washer is smooth so it doesn't present a trip hazard.

Try it, you may like it!

[mregan]

Greg
We used Epifanes Gloss Clear Varnish.  I think 5 or 6 coats.   Thinned the Epifanes with 25% thinner I think.  My father did the work for me but I'm pretty sure that's how he did it. 

[mregan]

Ron
Are you talking about this style finish washer for the screws?

[Stu Jackson]

I'm curious what you refinished them with.  This project is on my list so any other advice you might have would be greatly appreciated.

Greg

Greg, we used Minwax.  If you do a search on "sole" (you'll also catch a lot of solenoid topics, too! ) you can read about what others have used.

[Ron Hill]

mre : Yes, your picture is a finishing washer. 
You can use either a flat head or oval head screw with it.

[Les Luzar]

Greg,
I used six coats of Epifanes High Gloss for the build up coats and then three additional final coats of Epifanes Rubbed Effect (matt finish) for a softer look. Plus, the Rubbed Effect is a harder varnish more suitable for walking on, and does not show scuffs like a high gloss finish. Keep in mind that your T&H sole is only a vaneer that is about 1/16 of an inch thick so be careful not to sand through when doing your prep-work. Then cut the varnish on the first three coats 50%, 25% then 10% to fill the grain. I usually thin out about 5% on the remaining coats for better flow. If you choose Rubbed Effect for the last few coats, do not thin it out. I varnished all of my sole boards two winters ago and they all look great.