epoxy suggestion

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ghebbns

Hi all,

I am putting in new teak and holly flooring.  I believe the original flooring was 3/8ths but my local store only carries 1/4 or 1/2 veneer plywood.  I am tempted to go with the 1/4 and epoxy a 1/8th piece of plywood to the back to make the appropriate thickness.  Any suggestions on what to use to adhere the two pieces together?  I have also read that the bottom should be epoxied to protect it from water/dampness.  What would you recommend for this?

thanks,

Greg
1990 C34 #1040
M 25XP

Ron Hill

#1
Greg : You are correct on the 3/8" original size.

On your gluing a 1/4" piece to the new T/H 1/8" you'll need the epoxy in the quart size cans.  Look in any marine catalog for the 2 part epoxy.  You are also going to need a large flat area with some weights to complete this task.  
I'm not too sure that you need to epoxy the exposed underside, but you definitely need to seal it and its cut edges with varnish or shellac.

Also make sure that you buy exterior grade plywood, so moisture won't separate it later.  A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

patrice

Hi,

One thing to take in consideration will be the flexing of the floor.
1/4 th ply will flex under your weight.
If the price is not to exessive, and probably less work, I would go with the 1/2 thick.
And use a router to remove the extra thickness under the ply on the ousdide surface where it is sitting on the fiberglass recess.  And make it 3/8 thick.

If you add up the cost of 1/4 ply + extra 1/8 ply to make up thickness + epoxy kit + time to make  VS 1/2 ply + router labor  =  ??

Not sure if it is clear.
_____________
Patrice
1989 MKI #970
TR, WK, M25XP
   _/)  Free Spirit
~~~~~~

Tom Soko

#3
Greg,
I did exactly what you are describing for my C36.  I used 1/4" T&H plywood and 1/8" louan (sp?).  I rough-cut the dimensions and used contact cement to join the pieces to end up with 3/8".  The fiberglass sub-floor is stiff enough that I didn't notice any flexing at all.  I used the old floorboards as a template, and a router to round over the botom edges as the originals were.  The first coat of sealer I put on was poly on the top.  That was followed by West System epoxy on the sides and bottom.  Why seal the top first?  Because no matter how careful you are, you will get drips from the bottom & edges that will "stain" the beautiful T&H top.  Sealing the top first makes the drips easily wiped off and leaves no stain.  After two coats of epoxy on the bottom and sides, I put 5-6 coats of poly on the top.  Came out beautiful, and completely sealed against future water instrusion.  Hope this helps.
Tom Soko
"Juniper" C400 #307
Noank, CT

ghebbns

Thanks Tom - that is exactly what I needed to know!!

Greg
1990 C34 #1040
M 25XP