Re-Bedding Vented Stanchion & Scupper Drain

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Ralph Masters

Did the rebedding of the vented stanchion on port side this week end.  A very straight up, fairly easy task.  The hardest part was getting to the nuts on the inboard screws, can't see them and the wires runnig through made it even more fun.
Rebedded with butal tape, what a great product to work with.  I know that it will not leak now.  The outboard edge of the plate has a very pronounced wave in it and the tape was so easy to build up a few layers to ensure sealing along that edge.
I bought a 50 foot roll of the one inch by 3/32" for less the 16 bucks including shipping.  If any one in San Diego area needs a foot or so to do a rebedding job let me know, I can give you a couple of feet and get you set.  You'd have to meet me at the Pier 32 marina to pick up, but its yours for the asking.

Ralph
Ciao Bella

[added Supper Drain to title - Stu   1/24/2013]
Ralph Masters
Ciao Bella
San Diego
Hull 367, 1987

Dave Spencer

#1
Ralph,
I too rebedded my vented stanchion last year.  Access to the nuts is a pain but not too bad with a small ratchet drive to hold things in place.  My stanchion was also bent as can be seen in the picture.  I figured it might be due to people fending off by pushing on the stanchion but I'm not sure.  Anyway, I rebedded with butyl and my source of wetness over the winter disappeared.  The picture shows the rebedding before I trimmed away the excess.
Next up - dealing with that pitifully small scupper shown to the left of the bedded stanchion.
Dave Spencer
C34 #1279  "Good Idea"
Mk 1.5, Std Rig, Wing Keel, M35A Engine
Boat - Midland, Ontario (formerly Lion's Head)
People - London, Ontario

Jim Hardesty

One of my first projects after buying Shamrock was rebedding the stantions.  About half of the stantions were bent just like the pictures.  I think the bent base may be due some to winter cover over the life lines/stantions and also docking help.  Holding the stantion at the top and trying to move a 15,000# boat is just not a good idea.  Having said that, it's such a common thing to have the base bent, I wonder why the manufacturer didn't beef up the base.  A small improvement, ie very small cost increase, the base wouldn't bend, and rebedding wouldn't be needed.  As for me, I improved the winter cover so it's not on the life lines/stantions as much and instist that the boat is stored bow-stern to the prevailing winds.  As for docking help, I do what I can, with a smile.
Good news, so far (5 seasons), stantions are still well bedded.
Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

mregan

Dave
What are you planning for the scupper?  I've looked at it an thought of increasing the size but it's a bit far down on my list for now.

Ted Pounds

Beware when you're working on the scupper that it has no glass reinforcing it, just resin.  That makes it prone to cracking.  I added some glass cloth and epoxy resin on the underside of mine.
Ted Pounds
"Molly Rose"
1987 #447

Dave Spencer

Time Flies and Molly Rose,
If I ever build up the courage, I plan to drill out the scupper hole and glass or epoxy in a short length of stainless steel tube flush with the inboard edge of the scupper indentation and extending maybe 1/4 or 1/2" beyond the outboard edge.  I don't recall the diameter of the tube - i have a length of SS tube on board but it's 3 hours away on the hard.  I'll be making one of my 2 or 3 winter visits to our beloved boat shortly and I'll measure the tube.
Does anyone have any advice on this subject? - likely should be a new thread.
Dave Spencer
C34 #1279  "Good Idea"
Mk 1.5, Std Rig, Wing Keel, M35A Engine
Boat - Midland, Ontario (formerly Lion's Head)
People - London, Ontario

Stu Jackson

Quote from: Dave Spencer on January 24, 2013, 05:07:24 PM

Does anyone have any advice on this subject? - likely should be a new thread.

Dave,

An earlier solution to this was:

1.  Do NOT drill out the holes cuz of the construction as mentioned.

2.  Stuff a plastic clear hose into the scupper holes.  Length: your choice.

The idea came from early C42s.

I'll add "Scupper Drain" to the title of this thread so no need to start a new one, the search engine will find the phrase.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

Dave : I want to say that the factory scupper holes are 3/8".  I use 3/8" OD clear plastic hose 4 " long to insure the water doesn't run down the sides and leave a stain.  you can always use a piece of tape around the hose to make a snugger fit!

I learned this from another C34 owner back in early 1990.  A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Ralph Masters

Same here, bought a three foot piece at WM and cut the 4 inch pieces and just push them in.  Keeps all the tracks off the side.  It's great.

Ralph
Ralph Masters
Ciao Bella
San Diego
Hull 367, 1987

Dave Spencer

Stu, Ron, Ralph,
Thanks for the advice.  I doubt that I ever would have screwed up the courage to drill out the scupper drain holes anyway.   :shock:  But my issue isn't streaks created by the scupper run-off.  Maybe because our boat has been Awlgripped a beautiful flag blue.  My dockmates seem to suffer from streaks but we haven't had that problem on our C34.  My concern is that the scuppers tend to get jammed up with gunk easily and drain slowly or don't drain at all.  I would be reluctant to put a small tube in the drain hole which would make the jamming problem worse rather than better.  Any other ideas are welcome. 
Dave Spencer
C34 #1279  "Good Idea"
Mk 1.5, Std Rig, Wing Keel, M35A Engine
Boat - Midland, Ontario (formerly Lion's Head)
People - London, Ontario

Ralph Masters

Checked yesterday after two days of rain and it is dry as a bone under the vented stanchion.  That stuff works great.   :clap
Ralph Masters
Ciao Bella
San Diego
Hull 367, 1987