Electrical panel

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crieders

I was thinking of replacing the electrical panel in my 1990. I want to be able add things like electric head and perhaps a windless. Has anyone done that and can you give me some pointers and some diagrams?'s
Cliff Rieders, c34 tall rig, 1990, hull #1022

Stu Jackson

#1
Cliff, the Tech wiki has a lot of information, for example:  http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Building_a_New_Electrical_Control_Panel

You stick with what you have and add a subpanel, or do a replacement. 

The difference?  Your $$$ :?
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Ron Hill

Cliff : I know that the 1988, 1989 and the 1990 C34 electrical panels are all different! (have no idea why??)

On my 1988 panel I have a couple of spares that are not used. 
Also when I added a windless, I didn't use the Windless Switch in the electrical panel.  My circuit breaker was easier to wire and install in another location. 

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Stu Jackson

Ron's point is very important, and here's an example of why:  Some panels have the 1-2-B switch on the right side and some on the left side.  If your new panel moves the switch, either the wires from the battery box will be short or long enough, right?  So be sure about your "planning ahead."

Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

scotty

When I wired my windless, I also used the supplied breaker switch.  Not only was I able to use shorter distances, but I was able to have the windless on a totally separate switch so that it was easier to identify.  I wired it on the starboard side, on the pannel under the dinette seat next to the bulkhead to the forepeak.  It is low (near the floorboard). It is out of the way, easy to get to and totally separate from other switches.  It's just inches away from the battery I wired it into.
Scotty

noworries

I replaced mine with a new panel from seaward.

It was around $550 I think.

Figure somebody will give you a little money for your old one (somebody with a REALLY old catalina)

I wouldn't replace the panel because you want to add a windlass or electric head, but if your panel is old and unreliable or in need of maintenance it's a worthwhile upgrade.  Like others said, the windlass breaker is better off someplace else in most cases, and an electric head is just a single additional breaker and wire run, unless you grab power off the shower sump pump.

My shower sump pump gets power off the water pressure switch, so keep that in mind if your head would use the water pump (if freshwater flushing)
1991 Catalina 34 Mark 1.5 w/ M35

Roc

I've never purchased anything from these people, but it looks like they may provide a cost efficient panel that you can design yourself.

http://www.wewireboats.com/index.html

Roc - "Sea Life" 2000 MKII #1477.  Annapolis, MD

mregan

I had them price up a new electrical panel for me a couple of months ago.  It was about 25% more than a stock panel I found on Catalina Direct but you can customize it any way you want which is nice.  I ended up going with the Catalina Direct panel due to pricing.

Steve McGill

Cliff,

Our site is littered with info on electrical panels, both direct drop-in replacements or build youir own from many different panel makers, all are good choices with multiple options.
I chose to use a direct replacement from Seaward (the OEM ) for our boats. I used model PB 4930E. I first saw it at Catalinadiect.com, but chose to first discuss with Seaward Products. I spoke directly with them, they made suggestions and sent me PDfs of their suggested products. I figured I would go to the source and they definitely made it work my while to do so.

The attached is my panel the 1+2+2 switch is for my house only as I have fully isolated my start battery. To the far left is the separate Blue Seas panel I installed for my A/C.

Good luck,

Steve
CLARITY 1988 #588 TRWK (sold 8/2023 after 17 yrs)
Chesapeake, Herring Bay, MD

Ron Hill

#9
Steve : Nice upgrade!!  

It looks like Seaward made you a "new" 1988 panel.  That's important (to have the same "panel layout") as all of the wires will be the correct length and no need to splice in wire for extra length!!  

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Steve McGill

Ron,

Thanks, my first contact with Seaward was thru email where I attached a pic of the original black faced electrical panel.
On the new panel I changed the breaker size on a few and re arranged and changed the standard function/lettering
(not show on the attached picture). When it was time to install my AC I went back to Seaward (Dennis Igarashi)
looking for a separate panel, this time I chose a Blue Sea single panel.

Steve
CLARITY 1988 #588 TRWK (sold 8/2023 after 17 yrs)
Chesapeake, Herring Bay, MD

mregan

Steve
Looks good.  That's the same panel I bought at Catalina Direct.  Now I know what it will look like when installed.  On the area where you mounted the Blue Sea panel, what is the rectangular panel right next to the 120v plug.

Steve McGill

mregan,

That is my Datamarine knot log for lack of a better name. With the Datamarine speed wheel installed it keeps track of trip/hours distance and total I think. This is much like what the modern day GPS or Chart plotters do. Additionally all of my instruments are powered thru this after the breaker and controlled by the green switch shown.

A suggestion.................................

My incoming boat AC wiring to the electrical panel was 12 gauge, back in the late 80s this may have been code but it is on the light side for a 30 amp circuit. Since I was going to the effort to update my interior electrical panel it was the perfect time to upgrade this to 10 ga.

Steve
CLARITY 1988 #588 TRWK (sold 8/2023 after 17 yrs)
Chesapeake, Herring Bay, MD