Holding Tank Disaster

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Bobg

I installed a inspection see thru round cover on top of the tank,I think it was 3" no problem what so ever, in the fall i pump out and remove the cover and clean it to the last drop, probably don't have to do that but its what I did, comes in handy when when I when I can look through it and see if I need a pump out or not.
I know peggy says, (I bought her book) the bigger the vent the better but on my 88 there is no room for anything bigger than the stock vent on the tank, has anyone with a 1988 model installed a bigger vent out the side of the boat?  I see in the archieves that "Roc" did it but his newer boat must be designed bigger under the seat.  I too get the occasional sewer gas smell  I use oderloss but it still happens, anyway just my 2 cents   Bob
Bob Gatz, 1988 catalina 34, Hull#818, "Ghostrider" sail lake superior Apostle Islands

Exodus

I know peggy says, (I bought her book) the bigger the vent the better but on my 88 there is no room for anything bigger than the stock vent on the tank, has anyone with a 1988 model installed a bigger vent out the side of the boat?

I tried to install a bigger vent line and vent and ran into the same problem.  Not enough space above the tank and not enough room for the 1" line.  3/4" is the largest possible vent line without serious modifications.

Peggie Hall

#17
tried to install a bigger vent line and vent and ran into the same problem.  Not enough space above the tank and not enough room for the 1" line.

But I'll bet there's enough room  at the end of the tank. It's always better to put fittings on the top of the tank, but at least 90% of 'em are on the ends.  Email me and I'll walk you through exactly where to put it.

And I strongly recommend that you pump out AND thoroughly RINSE out the tank before tackling THIS job too!
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "The NEW Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.amazon.com/New-Get-Rid-Boat-Odors/dp/1892399784/

Fuzzy

Peggy & Bobg:
Does putting in an inspection port on the top of the holding tank create any possibilities of odor leaking out, or are the inspection
ports "odor proof" ?
Larry
Larry G. Trumble
East Jordan, MI
Katarina
1987 #475

Indian Falls

Cheap vacuum cleaners are so under-rated...
Brian, I would toss in a gallon or three of just RV antifreeze as matter of insurance.   10$ keeping anything from splitting the lower fittings is cheap insurance.  Do not add water.  I put 3 gal. of RV antifreeze in the bilge to combat the water that comes down the mast in order to stop freezing the bilge solid.  No good.  Since my keel bolts leak a bit, the antifreeze runs out slowly and the water dilutes what's left.  It froze pretty solid, and we're only talking about 3 gal of water total in the bilge.  Your tank won't take on more water.  If you're not able to get in there and remove the rest of the water level to below the fittings, a few gallons should do the trick if you're Bow up so the cockpit drains as well as your holding tank being nose up...reduces the appreciable liquid if it's not flowing out when you pull your wooden plug.  Speaking of that, I'd get that pipe plug in there or your boat'll stink to high heaven when you get in there after the big chill.  Go ahead and try that pureayre when you're all cleaned up and let us know the results.  I used the pet smell version which I assume would be more aggressive but it only worked temporarily.  I still have an odor source to track down, and since you've flooded your bilge in the worst manner.. . you're going to be "the Man" if you can eradicate smells 100% after that incident.  Keep us posted!

Dan & Dar
s/v Resolution, 1990 C34 997
We have enough youth: how about a fountain of "smart"?

Peggie Hall

Quote from: Fuzzy on January 31, 2012, 07:46:16 PM
Peggy & Bobg: Does putting in an inspection port on the top of the holding tank create any possibilities of odor leaking out, or are the inspection ports "odor proof" ? Larry

When installed correctly (according to directions), the o-rings on inspection ports caps make 'em odor proof EXCEPT...1: when a blocked vent pressurizes the tank enough to force waste out the cap despite an o-ring (which would be a SERIOUSLY pressurized tank!)...and/or 2: when the o-ring needs replacing. They're rubber...they dry out in about 5 years and crack and crumble. A new o-ring solves that problem.  In the event #1 happens, I'd only open the deck pumpout fitting before cleaning out the vent thru-hull...and I'd be careful to be upwind of it when you do.
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "The NEW Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.amazon.com/New-Get-Rid-Boat-Odors/dp/1892399784/

Ralph Masters

Funny things those o-rings.  Remember the space shuttle??  Wasn't that an o-ring problem too???

Ralph
Ralph Masters
Ciao Bella
San Diego
Hull 367, 1987

Indian Falls

Not trying to sound like a know it all or anything but if there's a bit of info put up here that's not quite accurate....or a blanket statement like: "all _____ are jerks"... (insert lawyers, power-boaters, politicians, or your favorite)

Here goes:  If you have a silicone, Viton, neoprene, or polyurethane oring you can count on it lasting near forever in that inspection port, however if it is made of rubber or Buna N as in "cheapest"  it would degrade faster but more likely lose it's shape and become useless as a seal.  There is an oring material for every application, millions of applications.  So if you want to put a port in your holding tank, feel free, you can find an oring for it that you can forget about.  Silicone, Viton and Buna N are the most widely available, and the port likely comes with Buna N.  If you go to the hardware store those will all be Buna N.  If you want the good stuff you have to find it online (I buy from orings.com) or at a sealing devices specialist. 

Lastly,  I wouldn't want a hole in my tank that might give me opportunity to reach in there for a-n-y-t-h-i-n-g!
Dan & Dar
s/v Resolution, 1990 C34 997
We have enough youth: how about a fountain of "smart"?

tonywright

Great information on the O-rings!  I would like to replace the orings for my water fill and diesel fill. What material would you suggest, and how do I go about precisely measuring the required size? Does orings.com sell retail?

(once again you proved that the varied expertise of this group is fantastic!)

Tony
Tony Wright
#1657 2003 34 MKII  "Vagabond"
Nepean Sailing Club, Ottawa, Canada

Rick Allen

QuoteLastly,  I wouldn't want a hole in my tank that might give me opportunity to reach in there for a-n-y-t-h-i-n-g!

We could call Mike Rowe to do it! They might bring TV Cameras!
Rick Allen, C34 IA Commodore
Former owner of "PainKiller", 1988 C34 MKI, Sail#746, std. rig, wing keel.

Indian Falls

Tony, I would use Viton for both. It has the best overall for applications needing to resist ozone, UV, oil, fuel, diesel, abrasion and compression set.  O-rings "sort of" have standard cross sections.  Fractional and MM.  You can measure the cross section of your o-ring with a scale or ruler or dial caliper, that's the easy part.
Try this: take a 4 or 6'' Crescent wrench and close the jaw on the o-ring, then place drill bits in the jaw to tell you what size the gap is, that's your cross section.
Getting the right ID or OD can be a bit more challenging.  Measure the o-ring seat diameter to help you determine the ID of your o-ring.  Always go under on the diameter, a little bit of stretch to get on doesn't hurt.  Keep in mind that when manufacturers design products, it's less money to get a standard size than to have 10,000 custom size o-rings made.
O-rings dot com will certainly sell to anyone with a valid credit card.  Hit your local phone book for an o-ring distributor sometimes they'll sell you 2 o-rings.  I think you'll find you'll have buy a bag of 10 sometimes 100 to get a size online.

Now THERE IS ONE THING that could get me to put a big hole in my tank...  getting to hang with Mike Rowe for a day!! 
Dan & Dar
s/v Resolution, 1990 C34 997
We have enough youth: how about a fountain of "smart"?

Peggie Hall

#26
Methinks that for something that only should have to be replaced about every 5-6 years--if even THAT often--and costs only about $5, it would be a whole lot easier just to order a replacement o-ring from Beckson that's the right size to fit their inspection port in your tank.  This AIN'T the Shuttle, after all!
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "The NEW Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.amazon.com/New-Get-Rid-Boat-Odors/dp/1892399784/

Bobg

Right on Peggy, my Beckson port has been in for 3 years now, getting another o ring is the least of my problems, once you have pumped out and rinsed the tank, according to me, it don't smell "that" bad if you have to open it for some reason, I am going to investigate installing a one inch vent on the end of the tank Thanks
Bob Gatz, 1988 catalina 34, Hull#818, "Ghostrider" sail lake superior Apostle Islands

Steve Sayian

Brian,

I was at the boatyard where you store your boat this morning and noticed you have a Kiwi prop.

Don't know if you know this, but you have to grease it every year for the reverse mechanisms to work properly.  I didn't do mine for 3 years (didn't RTFM) and had to have it removed during the season two years ago.  Just greased it today!

The boat you are next to; Jester is a friend of mine.

Our wives also met each other last night at Brewed Awakenings.

Hope you are making progress with your holding tank work.

Steve
Steve Sayian
"Ocean Rose"
1999 Mk II
Wing, Std Rig, Kiwi Prop
#1448, Hingham, Mass